7MWFW81HEDW0 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

So I was unable to get my model number so I took the hinge off the washer and was able to order the part. Before removing the hinge I used a marker and marked the hinge location on the washer. Once I got the part I removed the T15 screws on the inside part of the door and separate the pieces. I was able to remove the white tube for all 4 of the pins and put them on the hinge. I installed the hinge an then i put the front door pieces back together again while it was laying on the floor. I though I put it in wrong but I was correct. Once i had the hinge on the door and the door reassembled, I was able to attached the hinge to the washer. The hinge comes off the washer by pushing up on it and to reinstall you push down. I tighten the 4 T25 screws using the marks on the washer and the door is alligned correctly. I am able to close the washer door with one finger instead of my whole hand.

First, the repair manual is under the top cover. From the manual, I found that my problem E1 F0 (I think) was one of two possible issues, the drain pump or level switch. I bought both parts and replaced them and the issue is no more. The repair went very easy. You remove the rear cover and top. The pump is located in the bottom bay of the machine. The only issue I had was that the machine had the drawer unit, which blocked the access panel under the machine and made installation and removal a little more difficult. The best way is to tilt the machine forward to reach the bolts, a small ratchet set works nicely. The level switch is on the right side, toward the rear. This part slides out, and the wires are keyed, so they only go in one way.

Two people to screwdrivers, stretching the spring out and around and that’s the last part to go on

Removed the back panel removed the drain pump installed new one

1. Unplug power, turn off water supply valves and remove water supply hoses from washer.
2. Remove three screws on back of washer for top cover.
3. Slide top cover back 1/2-3/4 inch and remove from machine
4. Remove water inlet valve set screw to left of hot water supply connector.
5. From the inside of the washer, slide the inlet valve to the left, disconnect wiring, and wire clips.
6. Disconnect hoses from back of detergent dispenser.
7. Connect hoses from new inlet valve to back of detergent dispenser
8. Connect wiring, and wiring clips to new inlet valve.
9. Slide inlet valve back into place and install set screw.
10. Replace top cover and install three screws for top cover
11. Recommend replacing supply hoses (mine leaked, and were approx. 5 years old).
12. Install water supply, turn on water, check for leaks. Plug in washing machine.

Video demonstration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yH0TppbTtI0

I pulled out the filter and it was not pugged so I ordered a new pump and installed it, easy to do. That took care of the fault code and it was repaired. Being who I am I took apart the old pump and found that the pump had a build up around the armature of the pump motor. I cleaned it up and reinstalled it and the old pump worked fine. Now I have a spear pump for the next it fails. Easy repair that took less than 15 minuets to fix.
Happy to deal with Parts Select they have great shipping.

Old dispenser part came loose from dispenser drawer area, hit the floor and broke two plastic connectors. Very small and fragile plastic tabs are all that retains the front of the dispenser drawer. Cost for those two parts over $100 retail.

Be gentle with plastic components.

Removed back panel. Remove 4 8mm sockets on pump assembly. Replace with new pump. Only difficult because of limited clearance. But I'm huge.

The top and back were already removed from front load washer. There is no lower front access panel on my washer. I followed a YouTube video that showed a similar washer model with a drain pump that looked exactly the same. This video had the washer up on a work bench for easier access. My washer is in a very tight space and the best I could do was wiggle it out and set the rear corners on bed risers. There are 4 screws that take a nut driver to loosen. My nut driver was too long to fit. My sockets were too fat to fit. I took my socket handle and put on a smaller socket, then added a nut driver from a power drill. This made it short enough to fit. One screw was totally by braille. The pump came off easily. I lubed the gasket part of the new pump with liquid soap. It was difficult for me to push the new pump up, so I used a ball hammer to wedge it up bit by bit. I was able to twist the ball hammer head enough to keep the pump up while I put the screws back. The screws finished snugging everything up. Washer works great now! This was done by a grandmother and obviously not an appliance technician.

I took the machine top off, then removed the control panel, removed old wire ring clamps. Removed door, removed inner clamp, water inlet tube, and bellows. Lubed up the new bellows with food grade silicone. Replaced the water inlet, inner clamp, door, outer spring clamp, reassembled the washer body and control panel and then ate a pizza.

Disconnect electrical plug. Remove rear panel from washer. Remove drain hose. Open filter on pump unit to drain water from washer ( use a catch pan to catch water) remove drain hose from drain pump unit. Remove electrical connector. Remove 4 mounting bolts. Remove drain pump assembly. Install new pump in reverse order. Once washer is assembled. Pour about a quart of washer into the drum so as not to run the drain pump dry. Enjoy your repaired washer

Took sometime to figure out the problem. A little difficult to replace part partly due to the drain pump with filter’s location in the washer. Mine is on its lower right rear. It’s reachable and yet difficult. Good luck!

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

replace the door lock with the parts i ordered

Unsnapped the broken assembly and then proceeded to snap the new assembly pieces in place. VERY EASY! Even for a 74 year old woman ??