79045069400 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Your service was OUTSTANDING...Ordered one afternoon, and before lunch time the next day, the delivery man rang my door bell...Thanks a bunch for you excellent service.....

I usually try the cheapest part to replace when I come to a fork In the road but I wasn't home at the time and my other half called in the "expert". He said it was the clock timer and it would be $450 to replace it. She sent him away and I bought one online for $200 and put it in only to find out that it didn't solve the problem. Did some reading and found out that it could be the sensor. Put an ohm meter on it and found that to be the problem. Left the new clock timer in it anyway so now we're good for another 100,000 cookies or 1000 pizzas, which ever comes first

1. Remove all four control knobs.
2. Unscrew all four plastic "nuts" found under each knob holding front
panel to stove.
3. Lift front panel off.
4. Removed all Phillips screws holding metal shield to which control
switches are fastened.
5. Lift entire assembly up.
6. Remove two screws holding bad switch to metal shield.
7. BEFORE REMOVING ANY WIRES LABEL EACH WIRE
ACCORDING TO CODE EMBOSSED ON BACK OF BAD
SWITCH. These will be H1, H2, L1, L2 and P. They are not in
the same place on the new switch as they are on the old one.
The reason for labeling is that in case you make a mistake you
have this back-up to go by. Also to double check your finished
job.If just one wire is connected to the
wrong terminal a disaster will happen.
8. Remove each wire, one at a time from the old switch and connect
it to the correct terminal on the new switch as indicated by the
codes on the back of the new switch. When done double check
to be certain the labels on each wire match the code for the
connected terminal.
9. Slide furnished bushing onto the new switch.
10. Insert new switch through the back of the metal shield and attach
with the supplied screws. The old screws were too short in my
case so be certain to use the ones supplied with the new switch.
11. Re-attach the shield assembly to the stove.
12. Install the front panel back over the switch stems.
13. Secure the front panel with the four plastic nuts.
14. Install the control knobs.
15. Test the new switch.

Pulled out stove, took side panel off on switch side of oven, unplugged old switch, pulled the old switch out the front of the oven, put in new switch and plugged it in. Then put oven back together and pushed it back into space. (Make sure to turn oven off at breaker box before you make repair) you could easily get shocked if you don’t.

Simply took oven out of wall, removed back plate, unplugged old sensor, went in the front and unscrewed old sensor, put in new sensor, went in back and plugged in new sensor, put on back plate, push oven in wall. Turn on power

Broil worked on the stove, however in bake mode, the oven did not make temperature. Turned off the stove, unscrewed and inspected coil. I noted there was a section of the coil that had a "corroded" appearance. (it was evidence of the coil being burned out). Checked with a ($9.00) voltmeter, showed infinite resistance. Found the original envelop for the stove taped to the back of the oven from 1973. It has wiring diagram with schematic and noted the coil was 3000 W, 19 ohms.

Bottom Line found comparable replacement online and tested resistance, measure dimensions of the old coil, matched with Watt rating, replaced, tested installed and works great, Oven has been in use for a couple weeks now. New stove would have been around $500.00. Not to mention some remodel work, as the house is old and stove is a built in.

Coil was $60.00 and should buy the time I need until I remodel the entire kitchen.

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

Took out the bad element and replaced it with the new element in less than 5 minutes, worked perfect, thanks

Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.

searched on the computer for the name and part number that was damaged, found that it was the bake element so i ordered it with part select.com. when it arriver three days later (as expected) i disconnected the gas and electric to the range and simply removed the old element with a phillips screw driver. installed the new element, hooked the gas and electric back up and began cooking again...

thanks partselect..

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

1 Turned off the oven breaker.

2. Removed the oven racks.

3. With a Phillips screwdriver, removed the mounting screws holding the temperature sensor and unplugged it.

4. New sensor plug did not match 20 year old connector. Had to cut and solder splice the connectors.

5. Installed the new sensor and now oven holds temperature steady.

Easy order, quick delivery and easy installation, happy wife.

Removed heating elements and replaced drip pans. And by the way, this is the only 'pans' I could find to fit. Thanks.