7750A Norge Dryer - Instructions

I opened the top then i did change the heater element kit only one screw out and finaly replace the temperature switch, again one screw out was realy ease was my first time,the professional online help my, every one can do it thanks i appreciate your help.H.E.K.P/N AH2162280 - temp/switch p/n 31001449.

I am a teacher and teaching is my game. I have always, with my four children, taught them to do mechanical work themselves. I and most of my children have a PhD, but in having said that, I confess, we come from a very mechanically talented family. It shows and proves to be of great benefit.
OK, so much for the intro.

I gave my daughter the tools and said, "What do you think is wrong with the dryer and where would you start?" She tested it and said, "The motor is running, but the tub is not turning thus I conclude it is the belt because I can hear the motor running eliminating that as a cause.

She then opened the top, looked around and removed two screws from the lint catcher. She looked it over, looked a me, I shrugged my shoulders and she then took a rubber hammer and popped the top off. Don't ask me how she knew that, but I think she saw the rubber pins through the crack between the case and top. She raised the top after removing two screws in back to relieve the simple hinge and also disconnected the wiring clip and sure enough, the broken belt was inside the cabinet. We called you, the best, fastest and most accurate service on the Internet and ordered a replacement. I would like to add, the price is always more than fair and delivery very prompt.

When the part came, my daughter took it up to our laundry room and within twenty minutes, she tested it and everything was fine. She did smell a little burning smell which might be attributed to a new belt or the fact that there was no clothing in the dryer.
Thank you so very much.
Dr Robert E McGinnis

I suspected (correctly) that the thermostat was malfunctioning so I ordered the Heating Element Kit. This repair would have taken less than 15 minutes if I would not have dropped one of the sheet metals screws in the back of the dryer when re-installing the heating element.

Unscrewed back plate, and replaced bulb

Lifted hood ,and took two screws and tilted the front back and remove the door switch , and took front off ,use little socket set, took cover off fan housing took pliers removed clamp on fan , remove key way on end ,slid fan off and put new one on and reverse the way if came off.

First I disconnected power to dryer. Next step was to lift top of cabinet and support upright. Then I removed door switch and 2 screws that hold front panel on and set front panel aside. Next was to reach under drum by belt tightener and remove drum drive belt from tightener and pulley of drive motor. Then slowly remove drum from cabinet . Once removed, I could remove old glides that were worn out and install the new ones. Before putting everything back together, I gave the cabinet a thorough vacuuming to remove all lint built up inside, checked electrical connections on heating unit and oiled back drum support rollers and belt idler roller. Next just reassembled everything in reverse order as was disassembled. Plugged cord back in and tested unit to make sure everything sounded good before drying any clothes.

removed screws on back plare and replaced heater element. Thank you very much foe your quick delivery of the part I ordered. I was reall;y schocked to see how fast the part arrived. I will recommend your site to anyone who needs parts like I did,.
Thany you Very Much,
Alan Brooks

I opted to remove front, top and back panels. This is best done with dryer laying on it's back so drum remains in position. Hold panels and pieces in place with masking tape (2") You should block up the dryer so you don't damage the gas pipe. I opted to total shop vac out the piece and lubricate the rollers and tension pulley. I made more in change than the belt cost!

Overall an easy repair. Belt came with diagram for easy threading the belt.

Using a flat-head screw driver, I removed the 1 screw from the small "door" on the back, upper right corner. Once the screw was removed, it allowed the door plate to "pop" open; exposing the old bulb. I removed the old bulb; replaced it with the new one. DONE!

Unplugged, loosened front cover, disconnected two wires from door open indicator, removed front cover with screw driver. Removed air flow cover with screw driver. Used pliers and retaining ring pliers to remove old blower wheel, my husband calls it a "squirrel cage". Installed new blower wheel and reassembled. It was all easy to see and get to. Thanks for having the right part. Sue.

Took off top and front. Removed belt and pulled drum straight out. Unclipped the rollers. And noticed the rod that holds the roller was worn out badly. Good thing I bought the kit. Because it came with everything needed and was cheaper then buying the rollers seperate. Only hard part was putting the new mounting on for the rod. They are not predrilled. So does take some force. Put everything back togetther and dryer is working like new. fyi you can also clean out your air duct of lint buildup when doing this project. Had a repair man come over 2x in past year and each time he would replace the roller and charge me $150 each time. I spent $300 on that bozo. When i could have ordered the parts myself for a fraction of the cost. This was well worth and easy to do.

No Repair, just replacement. Went perfect.

Learned as I went along, from various YouTube videos.

I lucked out opening the top of the dryer in that I didn't break anything when I popped the top up, since I didn't know to use a putty knife to depress inward the retaining clips.

Found the belt lying on top of the drum, and when I lifted it, it easily came free since it was broken.

Watched the YouTube from PartSelect, finally, and Steve made it seem so easy. Unplugged it, turned off the gas, too.

Front two screws unscrewed no problem. Front panel lifted away, no problem. Tons of lint in the front housing, so I decided to clean away as much lint as possible since this was the best opportunity, and I also vacuumed lint out of the sheet metal exhaust all the way to the outdoors exit port. Then I had to get that sheet metal pipe back in place, perfectly, and that was a little tricky

The roller kit was a bargain compared to separate parts I thought I'd need (one roller only) so I replaced both rollers and their posts, spacer, and washers.

Another vender video recommended high temp lithium grease to lube the new posts, but I just used "plumbers grease" that I happened to find lying around the house.

The most difficult part of the whole process was pre-fitting the new screws into the plates of the new posts because you are self-threading the screws and I didn't have a nut driver. (I was trying to do it using two wrenches, one to hold the plate, the other to turn the screw. The torque required is so high that you'll start to round the hex edges of the screws and ruin them. So, I went out and bought a 5/16" socket for $2.49, and self threaded the screws by holding the plates with a wrench, and using my power drill with the 5/16" socket.

This is where you risk ruining everything because as soon as the screw has self-threaded the plate, the resistance drops to near-zero, and the drill zooms the screw down hard onto the plate. I found, afterward, one ribbon of thread lying on the work area, which means I stripped one of the threads by one winding. (I'm not too worried, but it did make me wonder if I had screwed up. Keep the old screws to use as replacements for the new ones if you encounter the same problem where you inadvertently strip a screw too far.)

Then, the plates go back into the dryer, and the left side plate has a much larger gap, because you have to remove/replace it through the rear wall slot by turning it in-situ; the right one just falls down into your waiting hand, and is replaced by raising it up from behind its slot.

Finally, you come to the belt replacement, and just follow the way Steve showed in the YouTube. However, I tried and tried, but it was difficult for me since I'm left handed and you do it with the right hand. I was finally able to get it by getting the belt around the metal drive, first, and then bringing the white wheel over and working it into position by pulling the belt forward to clear the white wheel being positioned to receive the belt's tension.

This is a very doable dryer repair, it will save you hundreds of dollars, you'll do a better job than a repairman (since you vacuum all the lint out too), and its a great story to tell your friends.

Learning how to do it, actually doing the repair, and then double checking that I got everything "right," I'd guess that I put in 8 hours of my time.

It was fun… but keep your cool since there will be a little aggravation, and maybe a trip to the hardware store to get tools you don't own.

Very simple-remove 3 screws that hold the Control Panel on, remove the two connectors and replace with new part in reverse order. Unfortunately, this did not fix the problem. Will be ordering complete timer assembly.

googled"dryer not heating". landed on partsselect.com. checked parts like website said with multimeter. pointed to thermostat. ordered it, replaced it, it works now.