66542783710 Kenmore Range - Instructions

1) unplugged rnage from wall
2) took off back plate to unhook electrical from element
3)took door off of range for ease of access
4) removed the 2 screws i the back of tha bottom panel
5) removed 1 screw in front and 1 screw in back to be able to remove old element.
6)remove element and replace with new one.
7) reinstalled both screws and the bottom panle.
8) connected electrical to new element
9) replaced back cover and plugged in unit to wall
10) put range back in place.

Shut beaker off
Unhooked wires on element back of stove
Removed all racks
Unscrewed lower plate cover
Removed element
Inserted new element
Rebooked wires to element
Reinstalled cover plate
Turned breaker back on
Turned range on and let heat up
Turned it off
Reinstalled racks

Turned the breaker off. Removed the racks, pulled the oven out and removed the back. Disconnected and unscrewed the old sensor from the back, connected and screwed in the new one. Returned the racks and slid the oven back in.

The only remotely challenging part was disconnecting the old sensor. I had to figure out where to press with the flat screwdriver to get it to release.

I had found a good YouTube video and didn't use the app.

The You Tube video for replacing the Element was very useful. Let me know exactly how to proceed - it was easy.

I pulled the range out from the wall, then unplugged it from the wall outlet. I removed the oven door & set it aside. Removed the screws covering the rear wiring shield, then disconnected the 2 leads from the bake element. Unscrewed the screws holding the oven floor pan, then unscrewed the screws holding in the original element. Replaced it, screwed everything back together, and pushed the oven back against the wall. Took me about 30 minutes, and now the oven works as well as it did when we first bought it.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Took out the bottom tray and the back cover panel, unplugged the old element and plugged the new one in and reassembled

I read the help section and it said that the element was likely to be the problem (84%) and the fuse had a 14% chance to be the problem so I purchased both. After watching the video I tried the element first and that's what it was so I returned the fuse, Thanks for the help and video.

The company said it would cost me $698 to repair. I had a 2 year warranty and that was 2 months out of date.

Again thanks for the help.

I've replaced oven heating elements before, but never in a 3 year old electric range oven. I watched the video again after the element arrived, and installation was easy with only 2 screw drivers. I was concerned about the repair when I saw the severity of damage to the old heating element and the underside of the bottom oven metal/ceramic plate, which was almost burned (a hole) through. After finishing the installation the oven showed it was preheating but no heat was being generated. A couple of phone calls later, a Whirlpool repair technician told me the main control panel needed replaced- $385 much higher cost due to chip shortage, inflation, and would take 2 months to arrive due to supply chain issues. So I don't know yet if the element is good or not. I am disappointed that the element blew in a relatively new appliance, but a total cost of $600 in a 3 year old oven is still probably better than $1200 for a new oven which is double the price I paid in 2018. Part failures never come at a good time but 2 months without an oven at Christmas & New Years is added frustration. When the heating element burned out there was a loud buzzing sound associated with the failure, which I've never experienced before and there were flames coming from underneath the bottom plate in the oven for an extended period of time. The repair for the heating element itself went smooth, but be advised you may get into more than just the element.

Unplugged stove-Removed oven door two screws held the oven bottom pan removed same to observe the element removed thre fasteners removed inspection cover on back of the oven pulled off two electric wires replaced element reassembled easy job

Remove cover under controls, unscrew rangetop (front only). Motor on right side of oven directly under rangetop detaches with 3 screws and remove with care. Swap foam seal to new motor and install. May require contact cement to attach seal to new part.

Replaced the safety thermostat and disconnected the oven light.
Works great again...without the light

1993 model oven, built in wall model, so didn't to remove oven for the normal rear access to replace the lamp socket. As someone else posted, replacement can be done from inside the oven -- BUT the socket removal was more complex than just 'twisting it out.' But below worked! (1) Turned off oven power at circuit breaker panel. To facilitate working in the oven compartment, removed oven door (2 screws on back of door), raised the over door almost closed, put 2 large nails through the hinge holes when they lined up. Lifted the door out (heavy ~20-25 lbs) and put aside. (2) Put work light inside oven. (3) unscrew glass socket lens and the bulb). (3) Using inspection mirror, studied the inside of the socket to determine that its lock tab type and locations -> were on left and right sides of the socket. These tabs needed to be bent in, but they were each held out by a small circumferential length of think metal, a tab about 3/16" x 3/8". These small tabs could be moved/positioned by just finger friction, with a little start with a screwdriver tip on their edge! I got an end positioned to put sharp screwdriver under that end, then pried it (bent it) inward a short distance. Enough to use needle-nosed pliers to pull it completely out - came fairly easily. Repeated on other side of socket. (4) Then, with pliers, bent each of the 4 locking tabs inward a short distance, Used sharp tool to get one socket edge lifted a small amount; then use mini-pry bar and screwdriver to gently pry around the socket in steps, working evenly around its edge. At about 3/8", it was free. Lifted it inward gently so as not to damage the insulation of the 2 wires attached to its rear. Noted the direction of the wire tabs was straight up (keep same orientation on new socket). (5) Needle-nosed pliers on each connector to gently work the connectors off their socket tabs. Note one tab is larger than the other. Keep the wires inside the oven compartment. Don't damage the insulation. (6) Pushed the wire connectors onto their respective new socket tabs. Aligned socket with the tabs upward, and inserted it, careful to nurse the wires back into the oven wall hole; press socket into the hole, pushing it in evenly and firmly until flush. (7) Pushed in the new type bulb that came with new Socket. Turned on power, and light came on. (8) screwed on new glass cover. (9) Lifted oven back onto the hinge prongs. (easier with two people to get the prongs aligned and into their door slots.) Worked door left and right to get it to lower down fully. Removed nails, lowered door, and put its 2 screws back on. (10) Poured a glass of wine.

pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all.
An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great