66515708890 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I thought that the valve inlet was defective. Ordered the replacement, got it in one day, replaced the part...
and it worked perfectly. Saved big $$ in a service call. Found everything I needed online.

I shut off the power to the dishwasher, then I removed the front panel under the door. On the right side just behind the electrical box there are two wires going up to the hi-limit thermostat, (you may need a small mirror to see it), remove one screw that is holding the thermostat bracket, unplug the wires from the old thermostat and install new one. Screw bracket and thermostat back to the underside of the dishwasher, reinstall the front panel, turn on the power, done.

Broken latch on dishwasher prevented operation
Door Latch Bolt PS11741367 replacement instruction.

There are no instructions known to mankind on this part, however I did manage said replacement through determination and beer. First I looked it up on the internet. All kind of results, except for the model I was working on. Called, very nice woman directed me to yet another YouTube presentation for another model. As this was no help, I chose to not call her back. Not her fault.
So, I did what every instruction for the other models called for, disconnect the power. Seemed like a good idea if everyone suggested it. After that, remove the inner door by removing the screws. At this point I would like to mention that I also ordered and paid for what I thought would be a set of inner door screws to replace the old and weathered ones. However, they sent me one screw.
Who in their right mind would pay $5.10 for ONE SCREW? Well, your looking right at him. I felt like I sold the family cow for a magic bean, but that’s another story.
So, without instructions, I compared the part I ordered with the one installed in the door. It matched up in many ways, with exception for the fact I would not budge from it’s position, wiggle yes, remove no. I stared at it for 10 minutes with no further progress. Something has to give. I decided to remove the cover of the electronics with the hopes and optimism of a child. It also did not want to be removed. Back to YouTube and the computer. Nothing. I stared at it for another 10 minutes. Drank a beer, and started to “horse” it off, somehow it became ajar, and was finally removed. Upon examination of the old door latch bolt, I noticed that it was attached to the electronic mass by 4 wires. I used my phone camera to record which went where with false hopes that the repair was in reach. It was either me or the dishwasher. At this point, good money was on the dishwasher.
After recording and removal of said wires, I took the entire door latch and whatever the other piece was, to a table for further study, and another beer. After said study and beer, I remembered looking at other parts, one came to mind, a small teflon rod. As I look upon the part I knew about, I noticed it was adhering to the alien part with wires by 2 small teflon rods. I found a small nail, and pushed them out of the part, and they final separated. I replaced the old part with the new one and then reversed all steps and procedures, attached wires, reattached electronic cover, screwed down the inner door, shut main door, and started a dish cycle. Works perfectly. You may ask about the expensive screw. I took it to a local jeweler, who found nothing remarkable about it. As there must be SOMETHING about it that makes it valuable, so I had it mounted and framed in a nice display case for friends and family to treasure for years to come. A real conversation piece, and one more thing to dust.

Need needle nose pliers to remove the keepers in the end stops on basket rails. Basket must be removed to get to the spinner assimbley.
The upper rinse spinner is held in place by a stainless steal bracket. NO SCREWS!
1. You push the spinner assembly up and push it to the back of the machine.
2. Then you pull the spinner assembly down to clear the bracket and then pull it to the front of the machine.
3. To replace it just reverse the procedure.
Used part # 3379329.

Louis at ljsengele@att.net

As others have described, this replacement was very easy. The new spray arm is solid plastic instead of rubber (which had deteriorated and was the part that needed replacing). So it should last longer.

You have to keep and reuse the mounting bracket that attaches the spray arm to the upper rack, so don't throw that away!

The replacement was super-easy, and as others have commented, the dishes haven't been this clean for a long time. Well worth it.

I inspected the pump and checked on-line for instructions . I removed the lower panel and the lower dish rack . Removed the washer head from the top of the pump inside the dishwasher . I next unplugged the wiring after disconnectiong the power supply . Next step was to remove the drain hose from the bottom of the pump . Put a towel under it because it's full of water . Unscrew the nipple from the bottom of the pump to allow clearance so it may be removed thru the top . There are four plastic ears that rotate on the base of the pump . Move them into the outboard position and lift the pump out thru the top. I applied some liquid detergent where the pump seal goes and pushed it back in . Installation is the reverse of removal .

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

I removed the rubber boot on the top of the water dispersal unit ( stainless steel wand ) by turning it counterclockwise and the wand came off with ease. I then removed the top unit under it by removing the 8 torx screws and removed it. Under the unit is a cover with 1 torx screw to be removed and removed the cover to access the unit. I was unable to loosen the 1/4" nut on the shaft as it was very tight so I had to remove the unit and lock the motor armature with a piece of wood and removed the bolt. Using the kit I purchased I installed the new parts as required and it works as good as new.

The whole problem started with the upper vent on the door being plugged up with a whole bunch of labels that had been washed off of a bunch of tin cans that were washed prior to recycling them. Te high water float was also gummed up for the same reason and overflowed on the floor, I pulled it up and out and cleaned it up also, it works as good as new.

Look at the exploded parts diagram, that parts select provides on their website.

You have to take off the nine star pointed screws. So you need a special screwdriver or I had a socket set of them and I used a ratchet to make it easier. I think there are nine of them around the base of the door. Then remove the door and set it on the counter. Flip it over and there is a small plastic cover that has to be removed from the back of it, and it is easily removed by gently pulling on it.

Now comes the difficult part. There is a locking piece on it that holds the latch onto the door by interlocking with a piece on the back side of the door. I took a pair of wire snips and just cut the old interlocking piece off. This way I didn't have to try and slide the two interlocking pieces apart.

When you go to put the new piece on before you interlock them make sure they are put on right. Specifically the latch is pointing the right way to seal the detergent door. Otherwise it can be a pain to separate the interlocking pieces again. (which is why I cut it off the old one).

Then you're done. Just put it all back together.

Removed dishwasher lower faceplate.
Removed hose clamp at the dishwasher end.
Removed clamp at the garbage-disposal end.
Removed hose.
Pulled new hose.
Connected both ends of the hose.
Installed both clamps.
Tested.

My wife noted wood floor bucking up around dishwasher - pulled dishwasher out from counter, tipped it on it's side, looked underneath, & noted slight corrosion on top of motor -

Took motor/pump assembly completely off of dishwasher (comes out from the bottom) by flipping four little plastic cams on motor to the side & then took pump apart (starting at top & working down) till I got to the impeller/motor shaft seal.

Found plastic impeller worn through into two pieces & little spring thingy under the grinder-upper thingy broken.

Ordered Drain & Wash Impeller kit - got it a few days later - installed (new motor shaft seal didn't seem to be quite the same as far as fit, so I didn't use it - just used the impeller & new spring thingy)

Put it all back together & runs fine - no more leaks - (now just have to figure out what to do about warped wood flooring - oh well, it's old & is probably time for whole new kitchen floor anyway)

Note: This particular Kenmore model made by Whirlpool - takes Whirlpool parts.

Note 2: Needed only screwdrivers to do this whole thing - would have been a really quick/easy repair if I had known what the problem was & how it all comes apart. took a little time to figure it out. (I am a rank amateur at dishwasher repair)

removed old parts and re-installed new parts. The spring is a little hard to get to the right point without a jewelers screwdriver, after that everything worked fine.

Disconnect power supply to dishwasher. Open door and remove screws on inner door cover. Carefully remove inner cover while watching how inner parts are arranged. Found return spring on detergent cup linkage had rusted and broken causing detergent cup not to open. Installed new spring and re assembled inner cover. Rotated timer dial one full revolution to check operation of detergent cup. Worked like a charm. Re connect power supply to dishwasher and your good to go.

The mounting bracket was broken.

The parts ordered were a direct match due to the fantastic pictures supplied on this site.
A dealer wanted to order it and then I would have had to drive and pick it up - no way.

partselect.com first time user - very easy.

Diagnosing the problem, i.e. finding the source of the leak, was the hardest part. The best clue was the leak only occurred well into the cycle when the water was hot and steam was coming out the vent. I then assumed there was a bad seal and steam & condensed water was leaking down into the door. I replaced the vent duct & seal, a broken drip cover (an internal part in the door), and replaced a missing rinse aid cap. This stopped the leak.