66513272K110 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

This procedure assumes that the DW water connection and drain are flexible. Remove Phillips head screws (2) mounting top front of DW to underside of counter. Grasp door and gently coax DW outwards approximately 1 foot. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES. On RHS check lower end of door spring and note in which notch the spring sits. On RHS, grasp white plastic connector ("hinge bushing", with spring looped around one end), stretch the spring while carefully lifting other end of connector up, out of slot in door hinge lever. Pry door hinge lever 1/8" away from DW body while sliding friction sleeve over its end. Work friction sleeve past hinge hook, past wider section, into narrower slot (about 2" from end of hinge hook). Raise door to closed position. Insert and hold lower (90 degree) end of spring into the same notch that it was originally in (mine was in the 5th from the front). Loop the door end of the spring into one end of the white plastic hinge bushing, then insert the other end of the bushing into the door hinge lever's hook while stretching the spring. It does not require much strength. CAUTION: If the lower end of the spring is not properly inserted and held in the notch, it can pop out and possibly injure you! Repeat for the LHS. Push the DW back in place, and reinstall the two mounting screws.

1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading.
2. Drain all remaining water.
3. Unplug the dishwasher.
4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate.
5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order)
7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate.
8. Plug in

The repair was really easy. First disconnected electricity staring with fuses and removing wires from dishwasher, then disconnected drain hose and water hose. Pulled it out and removed pump turning clockwise no need for tools and same way installed new one. Very easy

The cost part plus shipping for each piece which was described as not cleaning properly due to not spraying. Each of these prices is part plus shipping, diverter valve $28.32 diverter motor did not fix the problem diverter motor $125.08 did not fix the problem my next option is the motor assembly which comes out to $311.53. I think they lead you on with the little parts and you work your way up with the big ones expense wise at this point I will simply cut my losses and buy a new dishwasher because I'm almost at what it would cost for a new one and I've had this one for 4 years. When I went to look for what the problem was each one of these said not cleaning properly which I think now is a generic term to just go from the smallest to the largest if I'm going to replace the motor for 300 plus dollars I might as well just buy a new washer

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

The replacement of the gasket was simple and required only a flat-head screwdriver to push the rubber into the groove around the opening of the dishwasher. Took only about 15 minutes and the door is a tight fit now. I wish I had replaced the gasket 6 months ago when it first started coming loose when we opened the door to the dishwasher.

Very easy repair !!! I ordered my heating element on a Friday , it was on my porch Saturday. I used the directions that Parts.com sent me . I also read everyones Installation instructions ..... Every step was very easy . I did watch a utube video , so I couldn't screw this repair up......... My wife had a new dishwasher picked out for $ 579.00 , my part was $29 dollars , savings $550 dollar ...... After the repair , I ran the dishwasher and the blinking clean lite took care of itself ... The water has never been this hot and dryers the dishes like it was a new dishwasher ...... My advice , read everyone's Installation instuctions and watch the utube video .....

I first turned the power off to the dishwasher. I then used the star bit to loosen the screws on the sides and top. Note that the 4 top screws are longer than the side screws. Once the screws were loose I used a clamp on each side to hold the door cover in place. Once the screws were removed, I released the clamps, raised the door then lifted the outer cover off. I then peeled the insulation back from the top to expose the dispenser. I used a small socket to remove the screws for the dispenser. I released the plug with a small slotted screw driver. I then exchanged the dispenser with the new unit being careful to correctly reinstall the black cover over the top. I reinstalled the door cover, being careful to tuck the insulation back in place. I then installed the screws using the clamps to hold the door in place during the reinstall.

The new lower spray arm fit right into place. All set, and I will always check to see if it is sitting properly!

Watched the video, it went as advertised. Easy repair and the noise is gone.

I removed the old gasket simply by pulling on it. I compared its length to the length of the new gasket, figuring there would be some trimming to do -- there wasn't. The replacement was exactly the same.
I placed a mark on the center of the new gasket, and marked the center of the mounting groove. I aligned the two marks, and pushed the new gasket into the groove, starting at the center, and worked my way out towards the two ends. After getting a majority of the new gasket to seat by hand, I GENTLY used the tip of a slotted screwdriver to ensure that the New Gasket was completely snapped into place.
The fit was perfect, and no more leaks. This repair was so simple, I'm embarressed for putting it off for so long. ;)

I pulled the unit away from the cabinet, unplugged the washer and water line(not long enough to reach) removed two nuts from the underside and replaced the heating unit.

I took out the old one and started in the lower left corner and threaded it all around the edge to make sure the placement and length was correct. Then I came back around with a plastic spatula to firmly seat the gasket into the groove. Worked perfectly and havent had any trouble since!

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.

I pulled the upper rack out of the dishwasher. I then removed the broken rack clip stop on the right side and reinstalled the new replacement clip. I then put the rack back onto the rollers and voila, the upper rack no longer fell down off of the tracks!! Problem solved and the replacement clip only cost $8.95!!