59666032602 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Failure detected as Damper Control at upper rear of compartment would continuously open/close, would never stay open or closed. Sometimes the main board would turn it off (maybe a low thermistor limit?), but it would stick open a bit, and keeping letting freezer air into fridge. Could have potentially been control board, but as it turns out after disassembly of the defective damper, the internal microswitch was stuck in the closed position so it wouldn't shut off the motor. Easy fix by gently pulling the cover off the damper control, pull out Styrofoam encasement, then a phillips to remove the damper assembly. Gently push tabs to release wire connectors. Reverse the process and you're done! If I really wanted to go on the cheap, I could have just changed the microswitch, but that looked like a shaky maneuver at best. This site saved me on this one, so happy to share my experience with this Maytag and its nasty habit of freezing my milk and eggs!! :)

Let the ice in the freezer melt while installing P trap drain tube

Total time 10 minutes. 9 minutes to clear out the food and 1 minute to install the part. Installation was self evident and could have been done blindfolded. Part just snapped in.

The digital display numbers (0= off and 7=coldest setting) controlled by the ECB would continually be replaced by straight lines, and the refrigerator would stop cooling. I tried unplugging it for a while. After plugging it in again, it worked (the digital display came on, I set it to "4" and it reached the proper temp), but the problem occurred again the following day, and then it stopped cooling entirely. I ordered the ECB, and it arrived in 3 business days. I watched the installation instruction video, took my time, double-checked the vid a few times to make sure I was doing it correctly, and replaced the ECB by myself in less than an hour. The refrigerator has been running without problems for 3 weeks now. My fridge had a different light bulb configuration than the one in the video, but everything else was the same, and it was a simple repair.

Remove the grate at the back of the refrigerator. Remove the existing drawn tube. Replace the exiting drain tube with the updated drain tube. Check to see if water was draining properly. Replace the grate. Sit back and have a beer.

I made a temporary repair by drilling the old blade plastic hub and put a small screw in it to hold it on to the shaft until the new blade arrived. The new blade came in within the two days I needed before Thanksgiving. I removed the old and pushed on the new. There were 8 screws on the back guard and two to hold the motor on. It was a snap.
Thank you PartSelect.com The wife is very, very happy now, we had 51 coming over for Thanksgiving. :)

Take everything off the top self, lift the self install the new part ,put self back in place and then install the drawers again. Took minutes.

Remove light lens by pushing straight back (needs some oomph, but not too much). Remove control housing by prying spring clips in back of housing with thin screwdriver or knife. Remove old control board by releasing plastic clips on both sections and removing 2 wiring plugs. Be careful snapping new control board in ; the alignment of the 4 switches and the 2 readouts is critical - easy to hang up a switch. Snap the control housing back into place, making sure that it is all the way in. Position the light lens so that it is lined up and about 1/2" back and then slide it forward (toward you) into place. The instruction sheet calls the refrigerator section the "fresh food" section. There are 2 light switches, one for each door. Both have to held down to get light to go out and enter programming mode. Easiest to close the right door, then push left door switch and quickly push the freezer DOWN button 3 times. Follow the instructions to set the program on the display and then push AND HOLD the freezer DOWN button until the display starts flashing. Release the freezer DOWN button, close the doors, open the doors to check. Display will indicate two 4s. (that was what mine indicated). Done.

The part just snapped in. super easy.

It took longer to empty the glass shelf above the Crisper Bins than to replace the rail. Since the part simply snaps in place, no tools were required

Unplugged fridge
Pulled light cover off
Used screwdrivers to press in on tabs holding control board cover.
Unplug wiring harnesses.
Snapped board in two.
Install in cover
Reattach wires
Done

Unplugged refrigerator,cleaned out freezer.Removed shelves in freezer compartment(that took some figuring to unlock sliding sheves)Our freezer is on the bottom.Removed four screws from back cover to expose fan,removed screws and attached wires.Carefully opened plastic clips after pulling fan off shaft.Replaced old motor after reattaching rubber seals.Closed clips to hold motor and placed fan back on shaft.Reattach wires and screws. Put cover back and replaced shelves.Plugged in refrigerator and wallah refrigerator part was cold again!

I replaced the Control Board...
the two boards need to be installed first . than plug in the connectors
(refrigerator was unplugged of course.!) i plugged in the connectors first. and had to disconnect them. install the boards first. than plug in the electrical connectors.. strange for a day or two it still did not work properly and than one day. it started working ok 7 on the freezer and 3 on the refrigerator. I do not know why..

The video on the part select website with the Canadian gentleman was absolutely the best! My wife and I watched it and was able to accomplish the replacement with no surprises or issues. One tip that we could add is that the orientation of the temperature sensor was not specified in the video, but the slot seemed to work better for one orientation versus another. It has been a couple weeks since the repair and the refrigerator is working like it did when we first purchased it.

Super simple following the instruction video you posted. Thanks!