59653462302 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Once I got the right part the repair was quick and easy. All I had to do is get the old part off with a screwdriver and curved needle nose pliers and the old part came right off. The new part went in just as easy. Quick and easy. Less than 15 minutes.

Replaced the part--
Door snaps loudly everytime it's opened or closed.
Correct replacement part and lubed with vaseline,

Removed back access cover with quarter inch nut driver, unplugged wire harness, pulled old relay out & plugged in new one, reconnected wire harness, and reinstalled access cover. Piece of cake. (Shipping was very quick) ***Frig was only 3yr an 1 mounth old.*** Maytag - Dependable Huh?

I removed the front cover--just popped off with no trouble. Removed 2 screws at the bottom. Slid the broken part out and put the new one in place. Put in the two screws, replaced the fron cover AND Done!!!
BTW I am a 65 year old woman and the icemaker is like new.

Followed the YouTube video linked to the Compressor Start Device and Capacitor I purchased. The repair was just as easy as the technician in the video said it would be. Removed the back panel, remove the clamp, worked the Compressor Start Device and Capacitor off the electrical prongs and replace it with the new one. After I reassemble the refrigerator, it was fully operational. Very easy to do and only required a few tools.

While ordering the assembly, I had thought that the ice bucket was included but it wasn't. So I ordered the ice bucket afterwards. Maybe a little more clarity as far as what parts come in the whole assembly would save some time. All in all, the agitator was very easy to install, along with the ice bucket. After securing the agitator to the existing assembly with two screws, the ice bucket slipped right into place. Easy to install.

The good news is that the part (the wheel was available.) I bought two in the event that the other wheel may break in the future. The bad news is that the housing that holds the wheel was riveted together by the wheel axle. It would have been nice to know that before I bought the part and if the housing with the wheel installed was available. The refrigerator was at my summer house a hundred miles away. Anyway, we had to grind the end of the riveted axle to dislodge it from the wheel housing. With the axle dislodged from the housing we were able to install the wheel and then hammer the end of the axle flat to keep in place, like the original rivet installation. It is not perfect but it held and should be fine. I am glad I was able to get the part and will be back in the future, if in need of other parts.

First I removed the existing copper ice maker line and then installed a plastic line. I then tried the appliance, with no change. I then removed and replace the primary water valve and then tested that as well. There was no change in the outcome. So I removed and replaced the secondary water valve and tested that as well and I noticed a significant change in water pressure, and in volume.

As the prior stories mentioned, this was a fairly easy fix to a nagging problem. Heck, we almost bought a new refer over this, cuz the door would keep popping open.

Needed a screwdriver, and a 5/16" nut driver (mounted in elec. drill). Have two people for this one! Emptying the door would help out tons too. ('course, I didn't do that!)

With the door closed, remove the plastic cover on top by removing 1 phyllips screw. Then, using drill mounted 5/16" nut driver, remove 3 hinge screws. Remove hing by lifting up. Now, carefully open and remove the door. Here is where the 2nd person comes in. There are 2-3 1/4" screws (Must use a 1/4' NUT DRIVER, SOCKET OR MAGNETIC BIT HOLDER) on the bottom of the door to remove the broken plastic cam. Also, you must remove the bad cam from the bottom hinge using I believe the 1/4" nut driver.

Finally , one person lift the door while the other kneels on the floor to help giude the door back onto the bottom hing pin. Close the door, ensuring that the top of the doors are even, and secure the 3 top hinge screws. UR done!

Greg

Took a putty knife and
Removed the old switch removed the spade terminals from the old switch and replaced them on the new switch and just pushed the new switch back in place

1 - Look at the schematic for the "Fountain" on Partselect.com
2 -Order the ice chute door and seal (seal is rubber and eventually it will stop sealing - while you are in there go ahead and change it)
3 - Unplug the refrigerator then remove the sump tray by pulling it straight out from the door
4 - Unscrew the two screws hidden behind the sump tray - hold the dispenser front housing in place so it doesn't drop downward - after removing the two screws slide the dispenser front housing downward while pressing it against the refrigerator door - there are two clips on the back of the housing that hold it against the refrigerator door
5 - Gently pull the dispenser front housing out of the refrigerator door an inch or two - you will be able to see the electrical connections between the dispenser front housing and the refrigerator.
6 - Continue pulling out the dispenser front housing until you can reach the multi-wire connector on the left - the connector is held together by a clip on the bottom center - squeeze the clip at the end closest to the wires to release it - gently pull the connector off
7 - In the center of the back of the dispenser front housing is a black plastic box (the limit switch) - again, gently pull it away from the two clips holing it on
8 - Set the dispenser front housing aside
9 - Slip the water hose out of the clips holding to to the chute
10 - Unscrew the three screws holding the chute to the door (two on the left and one on the upper right - Slide the chute out of the door
11 - Hold the door hinge so you don't accidentally break it (personal experience) and unclip the top then the bottom of the ice cube door from the hinge (the ice chute seal and ice chute door insulation are attached to the ice cube door - take all three out at the same time)
12 - Slip the ice chute seal off of the ice cube door - pull the ice chute door insulation out of the ice cube door
13 - Put the ice chute door insulation into the new ice chute door - Slip the ice chute seal onto the ice cube door (the schematic will give you the proper orientation for all of the parts)
14 - Again holding the door hinge - slip the two "L" shaped clips onto the bottom of the ice chute door - rotate the ice chute door assembly and snap (gently) the two side clips into place over the opening in the door hinge
15 - Breath a breath of relief if you didn't break anything
16 - Slide the chute assembly over the white pin on the lower right of the refrigerator opening that accepts the chute
17 - Replace the three screws that hold the chute assembly to the door - replace the water line
18 - Clip the limit switch onto the back of the dispenser front housing
19 - run the multi-wire connector behind the water line - connect it to the back of the dispenser front housing
20 - Slip the wires back into the clips along the sides of the opening in the refrigerate door
21 - Rest the dispenser front housing on the bottom of the door opening - it must fit flush to the door (top, bottom and sides) - Slide it gently upward until it stops - replace the two screws at the bottom rear of the dispenser front housing - slide the sump tray back in place
22 - Plug in the refrigerator
23 - Dispense ice cubes into a high ball glass and enjoy a job well done

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

remove front grill. with pry bar and wooden block, elevate side with broken wheel and insert wooden block behind assemble from the exterior bottom. With roller wheel assemble lose from the wooden block remove front elevator screw from the front frame. next remove cotter pin with the pliers and pull assemble pin. next elevate assemble out. drill out axle on the crimp side insert from the hardware store one 5/16 x 21/2 bolt with nut and new wheel. reinsert assemble in the reverse order. Remove wooden block and adjust height of wheel. replace grill. job complete. good job

Firts checked the parts received werer correct for the repair and the correct part numbers ordered. Then removed the ice bucket with the auger in bottom. Emptied ice from original bucket auger assembly. Checked out the removeal of the face cover for the bucket auger and removed it from clips that held it in place. Checked the specifications of the old ice bucket compaired to the new parts. Installed the aurger assembly into the new ice bucket and removed the two screws from the old unit to use in secure the auger assembly in the new bucket. The only tool needed was a 1/4 inch nut driver. Installed the face place on the new ice bucket auger assembly and tested the fit in the freezer. Ran test of the auger assembly without ice to ck for any misinstlled parts. Refilled the ice bucket with ice and tested with ice to complete the repair.

I knew it was either the thermostat or defrost control board. Checked resistance with multimeter across the thermostat and heater element. Both check out ok so I replaced the board and all is good. Board on my model was in the controls panel.