58714012414B Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Found your website, red the reviews, followed the simple instructions provided by others that had had the same problem and repair was complete in less than a minute. No tools needed. I am a handy girl and tackle a lot of repairs/projects, this is the first time that the job was actually easier than stated. Thanks for providing a good porduct, at a decent price WITH LAYMAN INSTRUCTIONS!!!

I went to your website found part# and parts diagram and ordered parts . I picked standard shipping . That evening e-mailed me they were instock and shipped also gave tracking # thet parts were here the next day.I removed the front dec panel then the 4 nut& bolts holding door to hinges(with door in closed position).Then I removed the 2 screws holding the hinges to the frame/axle. Replaced hinges with new ones .Put screws back in frame/axle . Put 4 nut and bolts back to secure door to hinges . Then i reinstalled under counter put new wheels on lower rack . I then filled it with dishes and ran a long cycle checked for leaks THEIR WERE NONE!!! THANK GOD !! Job complete, Thanks parts direct for a well designed website and detailed pics and parts#. TIM

#1 rule, make sure you valve off the water before removing any hoses. Remove wire trays inside dishwasher and then pull out dishwasher far enough to disconnect water line and power cord. Remove center piece and screen covering sump inside the dishwasher. Turn dishwasher on its side and remove hoses to sump and pump. Disconnect power to sump pump. Loosen retaining nuts that secure the sump and remove. Replace old gasket on sump with new. Turn dishwasher upright. Be careful with placement of new gasket when reinserting sump so that the gasket doesn't come out of position and the sump is centered properly. Secure with retaining nuts from bottom. Reconnect power connector and hoses to sump. Pour enough water into the dishwasher to verify gasket doesn't leak... look with flashlight under dishwasher for signs of water dripping from sump. Reinstall screen and centerpiece in sump inside the dishwasher. Reconnect water line and power cord. Run through wash cycle while monitoring for leaks under dishwasher. Reinstall wire trays.

Piece of cake as long as you get the gasket installed properly and the sump centered correctly... do not overtighten the retaining nuts or it may force the gasket out of position when the screen is secure with the center locking piece over the sump.

It is rather easy to repair. After you remove the screws that secure the top of the dishwasher to the countertop you can slide the disherwasher out far enough to gain access to the hose. The hose pulls off after you slide the spring clips down the hose far enough so they no longer grab. Then simply reverse the order and you're done. Less than 30 minutes and you should no longer have to hand wash your dishes!

The nut was split down one side, so I first tried to sauder the nut back together. Saudering never goes well for me anyway, but I couldn't get a good enough seal around the nut to make it fit tightly. Then I had to cut off the clear plastic shield to get down in there, just before realizing you could just pull the white wire firmly and it would come loose from the nut. All I had to do then was unscrew the original nut, and screw on the new nut. Then, luckily I had mistakenly ordered an extra clear plastic shield and could replace the one I had previously cut. Dishwasher now runs like a charm!

The door seal comes off easy. No need to take apart the door. The new seal fits snug. Make sure the notch on the right side of the door seal is installed to the right side of the bottom of door

I turned the power off at the circuit breaker. I then took the access panel off the dishwasher at the bottom. I pulled the wire off the connector. I used a plied to remove the broken washer and replaced with new part. I put everything back in reverse order and ran the dishwasher. I than checked for leaks over two days while the machine was running and everything was fine. Thank you Parts Select for saving me $500!

Remove the lower dish tray and set aside. Remove two Phillips screws on each side of inner liner, then close door. You should then be able to slip off the external facing (set aside). Pull lower gasket toward tub until fully removed. Reinsert the new gasket into the same tight slot, making sure that the notch inserts into the slot and the flexible gasket runs the full length of the tub. The gasket should bow out slightly toward the tub. Also make sure that the side seals do not interfere with the bottom seal fully mating with the floor of the tub. Close the door and check to make sure the lower gasket reveal is the same across the length of the inner liner. Reinstall the dish tray, then reinstall the external facing, using the same four Phillips screws to secure. Test sealing by running a short cycle on the dishwasher.

Very, very easy. Pop off the old wheels and snap the new ones into place on the rack.

New right away when we heard the sound, the spring broke. Easy to replace, pull dishwasher out from under countertop, usually held in place by two screws into countertop. Remove screws, pull out dishwasher. Close door, springs will now have the most slack in them. One spring located on each side. Remove spring from one side and replace with new spring to ensure proper spring placement. No actual tools needed as spring rests on a bracket attached to door and other end of spring goes through hole in bottom of dishwasher rack. open door to test for tension as there are several holes to choose from. .

For some strange reason my new dishwasher was installed without a door gasket, which caused a very small water leak. The gasket I purchased was installed in less than 5 minutes and corrected the problem immediately - a very easy task and I am no handyman!

The replacement hose was not as long and the original and therefore did not fit into the track made for the original one. Though it was long enough to work, an additional 4 inches would have been an exact fit.
As a result, the replacement had to be duct taped to the side of the dishwasher to hold it in place. Otherwise, the new hose was of better quality that the flimsy original. All in all, I could have picked up 3 feet of rubber hose from an auto parts or hardware store cheaper and done the job just as well, if not better.

Well, I actually was unable to make a repair.
Initially I inspected the door gasket and it appeared to be hardened, so i thought a new gasket would fix the problem.
I ordered new gaskets and went back to make the repair. Well, as I was removing the door gasket, I noticed the door bottom had been damaged and was deformed beyond repair, which was the real reason it was leaking.,

I left the unit in place. I removed the bottom cover, unplugged power from GFI receptacle and closed water supply valve. I unplugged the electrical connection. I put a dishtowel under water inlet valve and removed water supply. I removed two screws from inlet valve bracket that allowed me to rotate the valve and used pliers to remove water hose clamp and hose. I installed the new valve in reverse order. I checked for leaks; found none. Life is good again!

If you are getting intermittent leaks especially when you put a pot lid up front, it’s probably just the door gasket. And this was the easiest project I’ve tackled as a homeowner since buying the place 20 years ago. I read the other stories and I think the suggestion I choose to follow is not the best thing to do. So, read passed where I cut the gasket. I used needle nose pliers to grab the bottom edge of the old gasket which then pulled out by hand with almost no effort. I used the old gasket to measure the new gasket as recommended in one of the other stories, and cut it. DON"T DO THIS. The gasket is very soft foam rubber. As you push it in (I just used my fingers), it will get longer as you push it in. I put it in the first time (took about a minute if that long) and even though I cut it to the same length as the old one, it was too long. Obviously I figured I did something wrong. So, I took it out and measured it again. Nope, same-same. So, I put in a second time, careful not to stretch it, and this time it was now too short. So, I recommend that you just establish the bottom edge 90 degree angle seat and try not to stretch it as you work your way around the seam. It should fit just find, maybe with a little adjustment back or forth, but without cutting it at all. By the way, the half inch I cut off at the recommendation of one of the other reviews did not ruin it. It works just fine. So you can cut it if you want I suppose. But that half inch I cut off was what I was short when I was carful not to stretch it.