35548L-P1121710WL Amana Refrigerator - Instructions

Took the rear bottom panel loose , the ice maker and water dipenser valve is in the right corner. Turn off water line to the refrigerator , and also unplug the electric from the outlet. It is easier to take the ground wire loose from the valve bracket now , before taking valve out of the bracket. take the two water lines that run to the door and the ice maker loose, then remove the main inlet line. Once you have the water lines off, then you can remove both electrical plugs from the electric coils. The water lines that run to the door and the ice maker cant be confused , because they are two different sizes , so they will only fit the correct side. The electrical plugs are pretty simple as well as, the wires are the same color as the coils, so its fairly easy to see which one goes where. The replacement process is pretty self-explanitary , just reverse the order. Just as a hint of advice , have a sponge or mop ready to clean up the water that comes out of the lines when you remove them. I also changed the drum wheel in the front of the ice bin, this process is not easy if you let the blades and spacers fall apart , as they have to pretty much have to be in correct order , or your ice bin will not crush ice , and you could possibly bust the bin into pieces. The process is not really hard , just pay close attention to what is coming off from where!!! There are two bolt on the bottom of the front cover , take them loose and pull the cover forward from the bottom, then lift a little , should come off. Then the metal front cover should be exposed, ther are two bolts in it as well , remove them , and the front should be loose , this is when you hold the auger and keep an eye on the blades. There is also a nut , right in the center of the wheel you have to take loose , hold the auger then take the nut loose with a 1/2 in. wrench. Once you remove the nut the drum pulls right off the auger. When going back together , make sure the ice crusher blades all line up correctly , as the blades wont work at all . They have to slide back into the blade pivot bracket (slot made into the plastic bucket front). As I said before , be sure and pay close attention , and this process will go easily. The drum is marked front side , or this side out, be sure its installed correctly , as the ice will not feed right. The first cycle of the ice maker making ice will probably be only 1 or 2 cubes , but the second time around you will have a full set of 8 , the water lines get air in them while they are unhooked so you wont get a full cycle the first time.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.

I have replaced the circuit board, the condenser fan motor but the unit still will not feeze correctly. The bottom of the unit freezes but just barely cools the rest of the freezer and ice box. Have you got any other advice that might help. This is a side by side unit. What else could be the problem. It seems that the fan is not working correctly or it is stuck in defrost mode. The coils where the fan is seem to be icing up but it will not let the fan work. THanks for your help, David Wilson

I did a few tests with the old ice maker and determined that it was the ice maker itself that was faulty. The replacement part I ordered exceeded my expectations in the time it took to get the part. I reused the arm, wire harness and clamps from the old icemaker. Then it was a simple install into the bottom freezer compartment, turning on the water supply and bingo...lots of ice cubes.

Loosened all retaining screws around gasket - removed old gasket - inserted new gasket and tightened screws. Little tedious (lots of screws) but very simple.

valved water off
removed back panels from refrigerator
disconnected water supply line from solenoid
disconneceted outlet to ice maker
disconneceted outlet to water for the door
removed solenoid valve
replaced water line to the ice maker
installed new solenoid and reconnected water lines. Valved water on and pressure tested and put back panels back on. This is a very easy job and if you live in Tennessee your valve will eventually stop up. The first sign will be smaller ice cubes and then no ice cubes.

Removed screw under ice maker. Tilted ice maker up to remove unit from upper two screws. Disconnected plug at rear of freezer. Attached wiring harness, baler arm and cover from old to new ice maker. Reinstalled in reverse order. Had ice within one hour. Very easy fix.

Disconnected power cord, Removed lower front face plate, removed one screw that helt cover over defrost timer, removed two screws that held timer, unpluged timer and removed it. Replaced old timer with new timer. Replaced timer installed two screws and replaced cover.

I unhooked the wire harness from the ref. and took out three screws and pulled the old unit out. I than changed a few parts from the old icemaker to the new and reattached the new ice maker to the ref. and plugged the wire back in. everything is working fine. No problems. Also I was very happy with the ordering process. Thank you!!

I simply removed the old switch using 2 small screwdrivers and the old switch case popped out. I then upluged the wires from the old switch and reversed the process. Didn't take longer than 5 minutes begining to end! Thank you for the great service! Duncan quaid

We came home from a long vacation to discover a warm refrigerator with its contents in various stages of decay.

Turning the freezer thermostat to its warmest setting then back to cold generated clicks, and after a few tries the compressor started and cooled the refrigerator to its normal cold temperatures. But… later the compressor again failed to start, and everything warmed back up again. With persistence and turning the thermostat up and down several times a day, we could keep the fridge cold.

It was time to order parts. We needed a new start relay and capacitor for the compressor. For our Amana ARB2214CW a start relay (WP12555902) and capacitor (WP65889-4) were listed on the first page of the Partselect parts list for my refrigerator. I ordered them, received them, removed the old capacitor and start relay (which rattled when shaken). and prepared to install my new parts. The new start relay did not match the old. The old start relay fit my wiring which had a single plug with two small female spade connectors in the plug. The new start relay required wiring with two separate female spade connectors; one the normal size and one larger. Phone calls to Partselect and to Westinghouse shed no light on the discrepancy. On the second page of the Partselect parts list was a combination of a start relay and a capacitor (W10613606) that matched my electrical connector. I could see the connection in the photograph. I ordered it and it fit. Easy peazy. That fixed the compressor start problem. Every time the freezer thermostat clicked on, the compressor started. Success.

But… from our troubleshooting we now had a thermometer the freezer, and it was obvious that the temperature difference between the cold point where the thermostat turned the compressor off and the warm point where the thermostat restarted the compressor was much too wide. In addition, the knob was hard to turn and was sticky as it turned. Oiling it fixed the sticky knob problem but not the wide temperature difference problem. I ordered a new freezer thermostat (WP67003000), received it, installed it, and all is now fine with my refrigerator. The new thermostat was physically a little different from the original, but it fit and worked.

I returned the first compressor start relay and capacitor and received a refund including the shipping charge.

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

First, I shut off the water going to the refrigerator, then removed the ice bin. Then I loosened the two screws on the top of the ice maker (the one toward the front was a little tricky, since you can't see it at all), then removed the screw that fastens the lower bracket to the side of the frig. Then I lifted up on it slightly to remove it from the two upper screws, then unplugged the wiring harness from the side of the refrigerator and lifted the whole unit out of the frig.

I then removed the plastic cover on the front of the ice maker, pressed on the tab to remove the wiring harness from the old ice maker, and installed it on the new ice maker. I then removed the metal arm from the old ice maker and installed it on the new unit as well. The last part that I moved from the old ice maker to the new one was the lower bracket, as the bracket on the new ice maker was bent during shipping.

Once those parts were swapped, I put the plastic cover on the new ice maker, plugged the wiring harness back into the side of the frig, routed the fill tube into the back on the ice maker assembly, and set the unit back on the two upper screws. I then put the screw back in the lower bracket, tightened the two upper screws, and then put the ice bin back in and turned the water back on. After a couple of hours, I threw out the first couple of batches of ice and it is now working as it had in the past.

I also noticed, when looking at the old ice maker, that the black plastic coating was coming off the ice cube tray, so it was a good time to be replacing it anyway. Overall, a very easy job (I was prepared for swearing, parts being slightly off, etc.) and it would have been a shame to have paid someone to do it.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Removed ice container, replaced end cap that holds Auger shaft that connects to shaft that turns the Auger. End cap plastic nubs wear where it makes contact to the turning stub. Removing a few screws on the front of ice container allows the Auger shaft to slide forward and away from the end cap. Maneuver end cap from shaft, replace using same maneuver and that is it.
Pretty easy, even for a novice like me. A $6.00 end cap verses the whole assembly at around $70.00
I'm pleased.......