11062182102 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions
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Old lint filter was broken
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Earl from Santa Ana, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
8 of 14 people
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Noisy
Disconnect power supply, remove power cord from dryer, remove dryer vent tube from dryer, remove 2 Philips screws from power connection on dryer, remove nuts from back of dryer, remove back of dryer. Locate idler pulley at bottom of unit at the rear of the motor, pull pulley back to loosen belt and remove from pulley, remove pulley retainer clip, remove pulley and rear washer from shaft and inspect shaft for wear or rust. replace washer and pulley (no specific direction to replace them, washer first then pulley). Reverse above procedure to reassemble. This is for a front load dryer, a top load dryer is different.
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Robert from HAGERSTOWN, MD
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people
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Dryer would not heat
On this model do not try to remove the back. You must remove the bottom front panel and the lint screen unit. You can then loosen the heat coil assembly and rotate it to get to the high-limit thermostat and the thermal unit. I replaced both because I bought the kit. It actually took me longer to clean out lint than it did to replace the parts. A simple remove of the parts with a 1/4 inch nut driver did the trick. Now my dryer works fine.
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GARY from PARSONS, KS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer stopping during dry cycle.
First I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. Next I removed the dryer vent hose and threw it away and replaced it with a more rigid metal vent hose. Next, I used a socket wrench to removed the screws holding on the back cover of the dryer. Once the back cover was off it was just a matter of using the socket wrench to removed the bolt holding the sensor in place. After the part was removed I made sure the replacement was orientated in the same way as the original part and then I unplugged the wires from the bad sensor and placed them in the same order on the new part and then I bolted the new sensor back in place. Since the new part has been installed the dryer is working flawlessly and is not turning off mid-cycle like it was. ***Oh, and an important reminder. When you have the back cover pulled off the dryer use a shop vacuum to suck out any dirt and lint in the back of the dryer and make sure you unbolt the metal chute that the dryer lint screen goes into and clean inside the area near the exhaust blower. This is a VERY IMPORTANT part of servicing your dryer and should be done every few months to help avoid the risk of a fire.****
Parts Used:
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James from HARTSELLE, AL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
8 of 14 people
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Lint filter seal worn out
The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.
Parts Used:
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Dennis from PALM BCH GDNS, FL
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
5 of 5 people
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couldn't get the wire connection anywhere after we bought the heating element.
we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.
Parts Used:
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Betty from Erie, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
5 of 5 people
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Dryer stopped heating
(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.
Parts Used:
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Joseph from Austin, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 6 people
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My dryer stopped heating
The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.
Parts Used:
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Jennifer from CLINTON, MS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
5 of 7 people
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Dryer was squealing
Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.
Parts Used:
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Kevin from VALDOSTA, GA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
4 of 4 people
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Dryer drum turned hard because rollers were worn
Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.
Parts Used:
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Paul from STONE CREEK, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
4 of 4 people
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My dryer was squeaking with an occasional thump
Watched videos on line on how to repair. Replaced all four Drum Rollers, Belt and Idler Pulley, cleaned out inside of unit.
Parts Used:
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Michael from BOILING SPGS, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
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Annoying loud metal to metal screeching noise.
Took the front part of the dryer out, released tension on the idler pulley, took the drum out, and remove the old drum seal. Make sure you remove the old adhesive with sandpaper or wire brush. Put the new adhesive on the seal, not on the drum. Adhesive is very runny. Seal may need to be stretched to fit the drum. Set the seal on the drum, let sit a few minutes. Put everything back together.
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Ricardo from ARBUCKLE, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people
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Broken Drum Belt
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Garry from Garland, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Dryer was Noisy
I simply followed the video and apart from a couple of areas that were not relevant to my model, everything went exactly as illustrated. The video is excellent and made the repair so easy.
The only issue I experienced was being short two rollers, as the parts diagram did not clearly show that there were two rollers in the back and two in the front.
A kit, with its own part number should be prepared that would show 4 rollers and belt as the recommended required parts.
It was an easy fix, I just did half the install a second time.
The only issue I experienced was being short two rollers, as the parts diagram did not clearly show that there were two rollers in the back and two in the front.
A kit, with its own part number should be prepared that would show 4 rollers and belt as the recommended required parts.
It was an easy fix, I just did half the install a second time.
Parts Used:
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Doug from HARRODSBURG, KY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
5 of 7 people
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My idler pully was squealing
I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.
Parts Used:
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Anthony from SAINT CLOUD, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
4 of 5 people
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