11021302010 Kenmore Washer - Instructions
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lid would not lock, washer would not run...
Removed old striker ( 2 Phillips head screws ) replaced with new striker with the 2 screws and was done, easy fix...
Parts Used:
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John from Hale Center, Texas, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
10 of 11 people
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Washer wouldn't start - Flashing Lid Light
I checked out the reviews and the recommendation of these "professionals", replaced the part easy enough when it came in. However, it didn't solve the problem. Got an actual professional to come in and see what the problem was, and they determined that gear oil was being leaked and it wasn't worth replacing.
Tried to get a refund and return the part. Was told absolutely not. The money back guarantee is a lie.
Tried to get a refund and return the part. Was told absolutely not. The money back guarantee is a lie.
Parts Used:
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Marc from HOPE MILLS, NC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
13 of 20 people
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wash machine walked
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Elzoria from FROSTPROOF, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
9 of 10 people
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Wouldn’t drain pump made loud noise
Removed old drain pump and found a sock in the inlet - must have burned out pump because after removing it pump was still defective. Installed new pump in about 30 minutes and off to the races no more issues
Parts Used:
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REED from BUCHANAN, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
10 of 13 people
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replaced drain hose that was missing
slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys
Parts Used:
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Delmar from EAST TROY, WI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers
11 of 18 people
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washer wasn't spinning after rinsing but the motor was running
I had taken the time to watch videos of this repair so when the switch arrived I knew what I had to do. Removing the screws to get the back cover off was simple as was installing the switch. No tricks here just watch the videos and your all set to do the job
Parts Used:
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Terry from HANCOCK, MD
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
8 of 10 people
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Shaking extreme
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Barbara from RICHMOND, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
7 of 7 people
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I followed the video guide, which was excellent
I followed the instructions, however I did not have a spot to hold the bar temporarily, so I drilled a hole in the corner frame to hook them in at the front of the machine. All else was easy and according to the video.
Machine works great now.
Machine works great now.
Parts Used:
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Richard from NAPLES, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
7 of 7 people
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Making noise when spinning tub hit side of washer.
Remove top of washer suspension
Rod goes on side of tub .
Rod goes on side of tub .
Parts Used:
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Ernestine from CARRIERE, MS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Socket set
7 of 8 people
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When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Parts Used:
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TERRY from WAUKEE, IA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
8 of 13 people
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Lid lock/latch stuck closed
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David from BELMONT, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
6 of 7 people
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Rock and roll on spin
Replaced the suspension rods.
Must be done on its side as the rods only pull down. There is no slot.
Must be done on its side as the rods only pull down. There is no slot.
Parts Used:
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Bruce from LANDENBERG, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
6 of 7 people
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washer wasn't spinning on final spin
First I found and reviewed videos on line to do the repair for my machine and when I actually did it the videos made it simple to do. Always look for videos of the installation for your machine or appliance and the job will go easy
Parts Used:
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Terry from HANCOCK, MD
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 7 people
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water would drip into tub between uses
Unplugged washer, turn off water to washer, removed water lines from washer, pull washer away from wall, removed about 5 screws from top access panel and remove, used putty knife to release clips from both sides of front control panel and lay forward, removed three screws from valve, disconnect hose from valve. Reassemble in reverse order. Not a bad idea to run a little water into bucket from both supply line to remove any foreign material that may have let lose from shut off valve before reconnecting to washer.
Parts Used:
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Dale from MANDAN, ND
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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The main knob insert snapped.
Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.
Parts Used:
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Larry from HICKORY, NC
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
7 of 11 people
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