1067606442 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

First, I removed the two thermostat knobs, then the snap-on plastic cover. Then, I removed the 4 screws holding the housing for the timer, thermostats, etc., and dropped it down enough to remove the timer and the wiring harness going into it. Installing the new one was the same process, in reverse. Quite simple!

Replaced refrigerator cooling control. No luck. Replaced freezer cooling control. No luck. Coils were icing up. Unplugged frig and allowed coils to defrost. After more poking around, found that condenser fan was not spinning. Touch it and it'd start. That was definitely in need of replacement. Replacement was easy. Refrigerator is now running as it should.

Removed old valve first, found part # on it.
Entered part # into search box on computer.
It came up with the right replacement part the first time!!!
Ordered part, it came in sooner than I thought it would.
I attached the supply line, pushed in the plastic outlet hose, connected the power line, and attached it to the refrigerator frame. We had a full container of ice the next morning.It couldn't of had been easier.

Removed the old timer from the housing. The replacement came with good instructions. I followed the instructions corresponding to the color wires in my unit. The first time it was installed, the fridge did not come on and the temperature rose after a couple hours. Looked at the part and realized the defrost cycle must have kicked in. Needed to slightly turn the gray slotted part to initiate the timer so it would stop the defrost and start the fridge. That did it! It must have advanced the timer so it could accumulate run time. Whole repair saved us $3000 in a new fridge.

The refrigerator light in our Kenmore fridge has been flaky for a number of years. The slightest bump would knock it out of the hole it fits into leaving the bulb dangling. Usually since we were used to it, we could avoid bumping it so it was no real problem, but a recent visitor bumped it and it once again was hanging. I decided this time, to take a serious look at it and fix the problem for real. I had options, duct tape, hot glue gun, goop...or a new part! A quick search on the internet, and I found www.PartSelect.com I entered my model # , quickly found the correct part number. The part came 1 1/2 days after I ordered it. The repair was very simple, I unplugged the fridge, removed the wires from the spade connectors on the old light socket, and attached them to the new socket. I then pushed the socket into the hole, and with new spring clips, it snapped snuggly into place. The socket came with extra wire connectors which I didn't need, the socket fits multiple brands of appliances. It also came with a bulb protector, but that wasn't needed for my fridge either. I was very pleased with the speed and ease of the repair. No more dangling light bulbs!

First defrosted it to makes sure all Air flow was opened. Tested the Defroster heater with omh meter, it was OK. Found the location of the defrost timer on the online diagrams. Used nut driver to remove cover.
Replaced timer. The hardest part was decieding how to wire it up, tis was a universal kit and depending on how it was wired as to how often the defrost ran. The firt choice was every 8 hours. Since this was going to be opened often, I picked that one.
Plugged it with in 24 hrs freezer wall mesured -5 and the fridge was at 30, so had to warm it up a bit.
Now all complaints gone, Ice making has been doing better also.

Removed the 3 screws in the back of the freezer, pulled back the metal back plate on the freezer. Removed 4 nuts on the plastic housing that holds the fan and pulled the housing down. Disconnected the wires, unscrewed the 2 screws holding the fan to the housing. Replaced old fan motor with new fan motor onto housing just as it was before. Reconnected the wires. And tested the motor. Worked great. Re-assembled everything as it was and it was done.

I used this part on a little, under-counter U-line ice maker that is the best little ice maker in the world. The single solenoid part from U-line cost more than twice as much as the generic GE one I ordered from you. It arrived in only 2 days and I was able to just remove the inlet and outlet line from the old solenoid and unscrew the bracket to remove it. I used the included bracket and one screw affix the new one to the ice maker, then just pushed on the inlet and outlet lines, tightened them on, plugged it back in and In about 20 minutes from start to finish, it was back in business, cranking out ice really quick as it was before. Could not imagine summertime in Texas without my U-line,,,Thank you!!!

Ok its the garage "adult " Beverage chiller.

Easy fix First I removed the 4 screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires assembly was the reverse. and the beverages never got warm..

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

The frig was already empty....removed the plastic control knobs and loosened the hex head screws to remove the cover . The wires were the same at each contact point, so, it took about 15 minuets to adjust the control knob to match the old one and reinstall the thermostat and place the cover...The other 15 minuets I spent finding my wife to show her the frig was back to work...Just a walk in the park...

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

replaced the cold control thermostat . The new one was oriented 90 degrees off (on the bracket mount) so I had to turn it (in the bracket) to line up better with the wire connections and temp sensor tube. The power wires can be connected to either terminal however, and I suppose you could leave it as is if your wires can reach. Turning it will make the knob off 90 deg. off from original markings (off to coldest) but I simply remarked the position with a marker. (make sure you connect all terminals before mounting the bracket, it's much easier that way. .Note: this was a 40+ year old Sears "Coldspot" refridg. and it works like a dream since I changed out this original cold control. Love these old mechanical appliances that are much more reliable than the new brokered ones. Glad whirlpool has made many parts interchangeable through many years...kudos to them

Removed freezer shelving. Removed 3 shelving brackets (dovetailed) by sliding them up off of the small square mounted on the freezer wall. This was a stumbling block until
I figured out how to remove these brackets. Removed three Philips head screw in freezer back panel (24) with nut driver. Removed light bulb cover to get some grip on back panel. Lifted the back panel up slightly and then folded in down a bit then rotated it to the left. Removed 4 hex head (1/4in) screws on fan shroud (23) and brought down into the freezer. Disconnected electrical spade connectors from motor and removed entire unit from freezer to work on motor. Removed two hex head screws (18) holding motor to the brackets. Pushed new fan on to new motor using a 1/4 nut driver and hammer. Mounted motor to old brackets with two screws (18). Placed motor/fan/shroud unit in freezer and reconnected electrical spade connectors. Replaced motor/fan/shroud in freezer with the 4 hex head screws (15), dropping one behind the coils. Just replaced it with a look alike. Turned power back on to check if the fan was operating normally. Put back panel in place and screwed it in place then put shelving clips back into place and then all the shelving. Appears to operating quietly so far. About 30 minutes to complete the job.

I first unplugged the unit.
Secondly I unscrewed the back panel and removed it.
Third, I unplugged the fan, unscrewed it, removed it, and replaced it with the new fan motor.
I then plugged it to confirm that it worked and then put everything back together.