10651713410 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

At first ordered the wrong part. Using the website was difficult to find the correct part, but once I called, it was pretty easy to find the part needed. Part showed up and install was only a few minutes. No more leaking!

Thanks for the help PartSelect!

I pulled off the panel covering the part in the freezer cut and stripped the wires. Used crimper and connectors put the new part on put the wires band panel back on and plugged the refrigerator back in. Everything works just fine now.

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

Piece of cake. It took me longer to remove the food from the freezer, remove shelves and back panel than to do the repair. I heard the fan making some noises so I replaced both the fan and defrost thermostat. I used the instructions submitted by a another customer. My 20+ year old fridge is like new now.

I ussed meter to check the voltage levels and they were fine. I refrence a you video on the refrigerator and foud out that the lights are setup in series like christmas tree lights. If the freezer light is out it will affect the rest of the lights in the refrigerator. I removed the freezer light module and test the light by swapping it with a know working light. the freezer light was the culprit that took the lights out in the side panels and the left side of the refrigerator section. I replaced the freezer light and all the lights now work without issue.

One light and they all go out. So i used one fo lights

Got resistance values from partselect. Coil was not in range. I remove rear cardboard cover,shut off water. Valve located on right side rear. Hoses are quick release. Unplug wire harnesses.

I first replaced the lower (freezer) evaporator thermistor based on recommendation from other feedback, however that did nothing to resolve the problem. I subsequently discovered a diagnostic document hidden under the upper right door hinge, which helped me narrow the problem down to the upper (refrigerator) evaporator fan motor. After replacing the fan motor, my refrigerator is up and running again. The only challenge was accessing and removing the access panel(s) and air column. Once those were removed, replacing the fan motor was simple.

i didn't repair replace capacitor, bi metal defrost thermostat and still not freeze also replace light door switch any suggestion thanks

Disconnect plug from wall. Insert putty knife between light switch.and trim panel , apply pressure to depress plastic spring holding switch in place. Apply a slight twist too putty knife releasing switch from trim piece. This wil expose plug connected to switch. Disconnect plug from switch. Connect new switch to plug. Insert switch into trim. Plug refrigerator into wall socket.

The instructions in the package were not helpful. They wanted me to cut the wiring harness and described where to cut based on the wire colors. My wires were not the same color! I removed the light mechanism using a combination of a screwdriver, putty knife, and plain old muscle with my fingers! The wiring harness unplugged easily and the new one inserted. It was easy to push the whole assembly back into the door. I spent more time looking for something to cut the wiring harness with (and never did find it) than the whole job actually took without needing to cut anything!

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

Repair was replacing motor kit. I did not use the plastic parts - ejector arm and separator. Went same as others described. I had removed ice maker from refrigerator although this was not necessary to replace motor unit(Please unplug refrigerator whether or not you remove the entire ice maker).
Removed three screws, removed old motor unit, inserted new unit making sure the ice level wire arm end was in slot. Ejector is D shaped so can't go in wrong. Replaced screws and replaced ice maker in freezer. Note - be sure the water tube is in the trough before trying to refasten ice maker.
Added note: If for whatever reason you need to remove ice maker note that there are three mounting screws (others have mentioned this) Completely remove one under middle of ice maker. For the two at top of ice maker - just loosen a few turns. The ice maker can be lifted and pulled away from the wall without removing these screws. Also there is a tab on the electrical wire connector for ice maker at back wall of freezer. Tab must be depressed with a flat tip screw driver while pulling out to remove wire connector. Tab is on wide side of connector facing inside of freezer.

Repair worked. Have lots of ice again.