10651149110 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

Googled "intermittent clicking noise" or something similar and consensus was it was either the capacitor or compressor start relay. You-tubed videos on how to replace these. Looked easy. Just unplug them from the condenser and replace. Contacted Part Select and staff said 50% of the the time it was the capacitor, 50% of the time it was the relay. I was in a time crunch so I ordered both and they came in a couple of days. I replaced the capacitor but the clicking noise continued. I replaced the relay and problem solved! Maybe I could have gotten away with just replacing the relay, but I had them both by then and figured with a 10 year old fridge, better replace them both at the same time and be done with the problem. So far, so good.

pulled the top shelf and poped open the door and replaced the filter

1. Removed 2 screws on top hing.
2. Easily lifted door and place on table.
3. Removed set screw for door cam.
4. Removed stop bracket.
5. Reversed steps 4 thru 1.

When tightening top 2 screws, make sure door gap is consistent and top of frig door aligns with the top of the freezer door.

NOTE: The lady at PartSelect who helped me with my order was great. Took the time to verify my parts. Prior to this I had bought the part from a nearby appliance parts store. They sold me the wrong part, even though I showed them a picture of my model number plate b4 ordering. In the future, I will always go to PartSelect for my appliance part purchases.

After pulling the fridge out and removing the dust cover over the lower portion in back of the fridge, I could see water dripping from the inlet valve between the water main to the icemaker and the water dispenser in the door.
1. Unplug the fridge
2. Place a towel under the fridge to absorb any over flow
3. Turn off the water supply to the fridge - this is usually at a tap valve on the cold water line. trace the line from the back of the fridge to find the connection point. In the unlikely event there is not valve at the tap valve or if it is inaccessible, turn off the main water supply. If you have to turn off the main supply turn on a faucet somewhere in the house to bleed the pressure from the line.
4. If the valve is tied to the frame or line , undo the tie or cut the zip tie (in my case)
5. Unplug each electric connector from the old valve to the new one.
6. The water connections are all quick connect so release the intake line by pressing down on the white ring and removing the tube. Press the tube into the new valve.
7. Repeat with each line going to the refrigerator making sure to plug each tube into the same outlet you pulled it from
8. In each case to minimize water coming out of the tube, hold your finger over the end while transferring to the new valve.
9. Verify that all tubing ends are FULLY pressed to the valve
10. Turn the water back on slowly and check for leaks. if some are seen turn water back off and repeat steps 6 thru 9.
11. Plug fridge in
12. Run water from the door faucet to bleed any air out
13. Clean up any spillage
14. Replace dust cover (if present) and replace refrigerator in place
Piece of cake

Prior to ordering I removed freezer panel and checked for ice build up and fan functionality. Then removed rear panel cleaned lint from everything pulled front panel vacuumed out the condenser. Plugged back in and all seems to work with the exception of compressor. I have a little experience so googled in model number and your site popped up. I looked up part and the site gave me a percentage loved that. I ordered wish I would have rushed shipping as took about 10 days. Installed in less than 30 minutes and all runs great ??

Unhooked water line from house to fridge then unbolted valve from fridge body then removed plastic water line from fridge to valve by pushing in on pex release tab then reversed process with new valve. Works like a charm. No more leakage. Wood floor is dry and Happy!

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

I used the computer to enter the make and model of the refrigerator with the icemaker unit. We looked at the diagram to identify the name of the part and then ordered it. It was sent out the next day! We received it and installed it and it works perfect!

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

First I had to figure out how to get the old unit out so I could work on it. The three screws that others wrote about were the ones that hold the motor in place. There are 3 screws holding the ice maker in the frame, along with one screw covering the electrical connection. The electrical connection was difficult to unplug because the locking tab was on the back side of the connection and with no room to work in the freezer it didn't become apparent until several frustrating minutes went by. There were no instructions provided, the picture on the ordering page showed the complete ice maker, and for $80 you get a printed circuit board with a small round item which must be the motor/timer control. The two plastic parts for moving the ice from the ice maker were included but not replaced because I didn't notice them until I had finished replacing the ice maker back in the freezer and wasn't going to start over again.
Once installed, there wasn't any noise, even of water flowing like the old one, could not tell if the unit was working or not. In the morning there was new ice in the bin indicating the repair had been successful. This is like anything else, if you have done it before it is a 5 minuter job but when you have to look at it and try to figure it out it takes a bit longer. All in all, it was simple enough, I was expecting a complete ice maker unit like was in the picture when ordered but only the motor module was actually needed.
We have another refrigerator/freezer that has an icemaker that is over 20 years old and has never been repaired, it is a Sears model though, probably made by Whirlpool or someone else.