ZBD6880K10SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Simple repair... Great Company, quick shipping (in CA had it the next day). Quality parts, GE OEM!! And to top it off the lowest prices!!

All I had to do is take out the rack, pop off the old wheels, place the new stud rollers on, then pop on the new wheels. So easy and now my dishes don't get chipped when I pull the rack out and push it back in. I wish I didn't wait so long to order new parts.

I removed the old wheels & studs on the right side of the bottom rack of the dishwasher, and I gleefully THREW THEM ALL OUT! HA HA!

Then I put the nice new rollers on the studs, and then I put them on the rack.

Helpful hints for others beleaguered by this design problem:

1) Be sure to get new studs - that's the part that kept causing the wheels to fall off

2) Put the rollers on the studs before putting them on the rack. (Another user on this site noted that, and it was very helpful).

3) P.S. Very prompt shipping, great service - I will definitely use this company again. And thanks to whoever dropped a cheerful Christmas candy into the box!!

Pull old rack out, slip new one in!
One thing i did was order wheels and studs as i was unaware they lower rack came fully equiped with all wheels,studs, and flip up dish dividers. So if your replacing the rack no need to order the wheels! The diagram made it look as if you only et the wire rack and not all the added pieces.

Easilly took the rollers off and slipped on the new ones. Changed out the top rack. Now the dishwasher is back to new! Don't know why I put this off.

Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the door.

Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.

The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.

tormented by the wheels falling off the lower rack in the dishwasher, had to lift it in and out when loading, then it would get hung up and not enter straight. a real pain in the @$%.
i was so happy to find parts select, and see that other people had the same problem. i ordered the new wheels and modified clip. shipping was really fast. took off the older ones and replaced them. when my husband came home and saw i fixed it myself, he was astonished. no more fighting the rack. smooth and better than new. thx parts select!!

Removed the bottom tray, it just pulls straight out, once the tray was removed, the bottom revolving sprayer just lifts right off. Under this sprayer is a self-cleaning filter. There is a plastic piece that screws the filter into place, this part unscrewed easily by hand. Once unscrewed, the filter lifted straight up. I then reversed the process with the new filter and the problem was solved. Note: The old filter was full of sand and grime.

I gently removed the old gasket and replaced it with no problem. The part just pushes into a channel in the washer side.

Once upon a kitchen dreary.
Washing dishes made me weary.
All the dishes would not clean.
Gunk clogged up my filter screen.
The lower spray arm stuck and rattled.
With flying muck my dishes battled.
The muck had won and I had lost.
The repairman said it would really cost.
And so I did a google search.
Partselect got me out of a lurch.
Correct parts were easy to choose
and service so quick I couldn't lose.
I took off the old parts and tightened the new
No tools were needed my fingers flew.
And now my dishes come out clean
I feel competent and frugal, you know what I mean?

1. Remove the outside panel on the door by removing 10 phillips screws on inside of door. Outside panel will drop loose - do not let it drop.
2. There are 3 electrical plugs that will have to be removed. The first is a 2" long quick connect in the upper middle of the door panel - it will pull straight out. Remember where it makes its connection. Now the exterior door panel will drop down to the floor, pivoting on two axle screws at the bottom. The interior panel can be left vertical for ease of access.
3. The other two electrical connections are on the left side of the old dispenser and can be removed with a simple pull to the left.
4. Remove the six (6) phillips screws from the panel that hold the dispenser in position. Two retainers will also drop off, which hold the dispenser top and bottom.
5. Angle the dispenser and work toward the inside of the dishwasher, turning as necessary to remove from the opening.
6. Reverse the process for installation. Remember to reconnect all three electrical connections.

Disconnected electrics,plumbing, and removed DW.
Replaced sump inlet by removing about four clamps.
The inlet was partially dissolved. I think what lead to this is a partial clog, of broken glass and plastic. DW works fine.

I noticed the circulation pump was not operating. If I turned the motor with a screw driver it would start running. I replaced the pump and now the dishwasher works like new. Very easy to replace the pump but you will have to pull out the dishwasher and turn on its back. I was able to confirm the circulation pump was the problem by observing the motor not running when it should but it would run once I turned the inside motor parts(be careful!). I also had to replace the center sprayer which again was very easy.

The dishwasher was disconnected and pulled out. I turned it over onto it's side so I could get down to the drain pump. It looked exactly like the original part and fit just as well. The hoses came right off and then once it was replaced, slipped right back on. It all worked like a charm. The only problem I had was after the repair. The copper water line moved around too much and caused a leak at the connection at the dishwasher. Luckily I tested the line outside before I reinstalled it completely. I just went and bought an $11 flexible hose with new fittings on either end and replaced the copper lines. It went on easier and it sealed tight.

This was a pretty easy repair and I am glad I did it. We were on the verge of just buying a new one, but for a $35 part and a couple hours, it was well worth it.