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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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The Dryer Thermal Fuse (Thermal Cutoff, Temperature Fuse) is a 2 by ½ inch, white, plastic safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the motor circuit when a dryer overheats. If the fuse ...
$17.95
In Stock
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This thermostat (Dryer Operating Thermostat, Dryer Cycling Thermostat, Cycling Thermostat, Dryer Thermostat) is used to maintain a temperature of 155 degrees in the dryer drum. The internal bias heate...
$27.25
In Stock
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This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft....
$20.95
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This dryer door switch is a simple on/off switch mechanism that prohibits the dryer from operating when the door is open, and operates the drum light. White in color and 6.5 inches long, this OEM swit...
$27.27
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This part replaces your appliances latch (Door Latch Kit, Door Catch, Dryer Door Latch Kit). On your appliance you will find both a strike and a catch. The strike is mounted on the body of the dryer, ...
$6.95
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The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
$10.45
In Stock
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This Idler Pulley includes the tri-ring and gasket and everything included here is manufacturer-certified. This part maintains correct tension on the drive belt in order to spin the drum properly. If ...
$25.95
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This drum support roller is sold individually. Most dryers require two. The tri-rings are included. This is a drum support roller for a dryer. It is a genuine replacement part. This part is sold separ...
$18.88
In Stock
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The Drive Belt is a 93 1/2" belt which wraps around the dryer drum to allow tension and movement. If broken the dryer will not turn properly, or there may be loud noises. The part is rated as "medium"...
$24.11
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A clutch assembly (Clutch, Washer Clutch) is found in your washing machine and is responsible for spinning the basket during the spin cycle. The clutch lining can wear over time. If the clutch lining ...
$36.71
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This kit includes one high limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse with a limit of 360 degrees Fahrenheit. The thermostat and fuse help prevent the dryer from overheating.
$34.95
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If you notice that your dryer is noisy or will not tumble, you may need to replace the tri ring. This part is triangular, and is less than an inch in size. Tri rings can be found both on the idler pul...
$10.95
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Questions And Answers for WET4027EW0
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4 questions answered by our experts.
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Marsha
November 29, 2024
We are trying to figure out why it takes 2-3 hours for a load of laundry to dry.
The heat is working, although I felt the metal screen inside the dryer and it was very hot after only a few minutes of run time. If it is running "too hot", wouldn't the close be drying faster?
For model number WET4027EW0
Hi Marsha,
Thank you for your question. If the dryer runs too hot, we recommend checking the cycling thermostat. The cycling thermostat in your dryer monitors the temperature in the blower housing and cycles the heating element on and off as required to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat becomes defective or cannot accurately sense the airflow temperature, the heater or gas burner may stay on too long and create an unsafe temperature in the drum. The cycling thermostat has normally closed contacts that open on temperature rise and therefore testing for continuity will not easily determine if the thermostat is defective. You should first inspect the exhaust vent, blower wheel, drum seals and drive motor to verify that you have proper airflow before replacing the cycling thermostat. Before removing and inspecting the cycling thermostat for continuity with a multimeter on the Rx1 setting, unplug the dryer from the electrical outlet. You should see a reading of zero or infinity. If your test produces any other reading, you need a replacement cycling thermostat. We hope this helps!
Hello David, Thank you for writing. The Belt is listed as PartSelect #: PS382430 and the Roller is PartSelect #: PS11752609. They are sold individually. We hope this solves your problem!
Small things like string on gym shorts and hankies get caught under the cover inside the dryer drum that has the lint screen in it
For model number WET4027EW0
Hello Steven, thank you for the question. Based on our research, this could be caused by the lint screen housing being loose, or damaged. Inspect the lint screen. If found damaged or loose replace the lint screen housing, part number PS12114481. We hope this information helps!
First I unplugged the dryer, then removed the back panel, this exposed most all of the wiring and I could see the heater coils. Not knowing what the problem was I started looking at the coils and could not see any broken parts. So then checked the thermal fuse for continuity I removed the two wires from it with a small pair of
... Read moreneedle nose pliers, it was held in place by two screws, once they were removed the fuse came out easily, I checked continuity with a volt meter placing the meter on X1 Ohms and could not get a reading. I replaced with a new one and put it all back together the way I took it apart. Then I plugged it in and it worked first time, I now have warm dry clothes.
The job looked intimidating but turned out to be very easy. First take off the water pump by removing the two clips that hold it in place. Place a shallow pan under the pump to catch the water that is in the pump and hoses. Open the hose clamps with a pair of pliers or channel locks (better) and slide the hoses off of the water pum
... Read morep. The motor comes off next. Unplug the electrical connector from the motor and two wires from the capacitor. Remove the two screws holding the clamps in place and then pop off the two clamps. You will need to hold up the motor with one hand while you remove the clamps or it will fall to the floor once the clamps are removed. One piece of the coupling assemble will be attached to the motor and the other will be attached to the gearcase drive shaft. If you want to clean up the mess created by the shredded rubber center piece of the coupling assembly you will have to take off the motor mounting plate. It is held on by two bolts and removing it makes installing the coupling easier but probably not necessary. Push the back half of the coupling on to the gearcase drive shaft until the shaft is flush with the face of the coupling. Install the new rubber center piece on to the coupling then re-install the motor mounting plate. Install the other half of the coupling on to the motor shaft and lift the motor up to the coupling. You have to rotate the motor shaft by spinning the fan blades until the coupling lines up so you can slide it into the other half of the coupling. Then just reattach the motor, connectors and water pump in the reverse order of disassembly.
