PDWF600R10WW General Electric Dishwasher - Overview
Sections of the PDWF600R10WW
[Viewing 5 of 5]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Lower Rack Wheel
PartSelect #: PS2322303
Manufacturer #: WD12X10262
This slotted wheel is sold individually. It is white in color and does not come with the attaching axle. This part has been redesigned, and may be wider than the original.
$14.91
In Stock

Silverware Basket
PartSelect #: PS959351
Manufacturer #: WD28X10128
This is a basket for washing flatware or silverware in your dishwasher.
$39.84
In Stock

Complete Lower Service Rack Assembly
PartSelect #: PS12749241
Manufacturer #: WD28X25960
This complete lower rack assembly is a genuine replacement part designed for select GE dishwashers, including models sold under Hotpoint, Haier, Monogram, and Café brands. Engineered to securely hold ...
$146.55
In Stock

Upper Rack End Cap
PartSelect #: PS958986
Manufacturer #: WD12X10184
This end cap is sold individually. It is the same end cap used on the right and left side, for both front and back. It attaches to the end of the upper rack slide rail, and prevents the rack from fall...
$13.91
In Stock

Detergent Dispenser with Rinse Cap
PartSelect #: PS958966
Manufacturer #: WD12X10163
This detergent dispenser assembly is attached to the inner door panel of a dishwasher. This part holds detergent and dishwasher rinse products in a covered container. If your dispenser will not open, ...
$67.38
In Stock

Water Inlet Valve
PartSelect #: PS3654179
Manufacturer #: WD15X10014
This water inlet valve should be located behind the lower kickplate panel in either the right or left corner. The attaching solenoid on the valve open and close according to the desired amount of water needed.
$46.82
In Stock

Upper Rack Wheel
PartSelect #: PS11721507
Manufacturer #: WD35X21036
Comes with the axles.
No Longer Available

Door Handle Actuator
PartSelect #: PS2337860
Manufacturer #: WD13X10045
This is a handle actuator for your dishwasher. It is made of black plastic, and is sold individually. The handle actuator is found in the control panel, and it releases the door latch when you lift th...
$48.81
In Stock

Tub Gasket
PartSelect #: PS958888
Manufacturer #: WD08X10032
This gasket lines the inside cabinet in the dishwasher.
$51.29
In Stock

Tine Retainer
PartSelect #: PS958926
Manufacturer #: WD12X10116
This dishwasher retainer connects to the removable tine.
$7.93
In Stock

Rinse Aid Cap
PartSelect #: PS958932
Manufacturer #: WD12X10122
This genuine rinse-aid dispenser cap is an original replacement part from GE, designed for use with GE dishwashers. It covers the rinse agent port and securely seals the dispenser to keep the rinse ai...
$15.91
In Stock

Hinge Arm Link
PartSelect #: PS259336
Manufacturer #: WD14X10009
The hinge link on your dishwasher connects the spring to the dishwasher door hinge. If the hinge link becomes cracked or damaged, you may not be able to shut or lock your dishwasher door properly. In ...
$13.91
In Stock
Manuals & Care Guides for PDWF600R10WW
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Common Symptoms of the PDWF600R10WW
[Viewing 10 of 10]Leaking
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Not cleaning dishes properly
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Door latch failure
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Will not dispense detergent
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Will Not Start
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Will not fill with water
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Not draining
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Noisy
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Door won’t close
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Not drying dishes properly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
soap door latch broken, wouldn't hold soap for later release in middle of cycle like it was supposed to.
Turned off power to unit, 'cuz it has a solenoid lead to open the soap door.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the doo ... Read more r.
Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
Removed the phillips head screws that held the door together. The screw are located on the inside edge of the door, there are 10-12 of them.
Spearated the door shells carefully, trying not to disturb the location of the wiring in the middle of the doo ... Read more r.
Found the 4 screws that hold the module assembly to the door from the inside, and removed them.
Popped the assembly out, cleaned the gasket-seat area and placed the new one in place.
Carefully tightened the 4 screws. It is easy to over-tighten them, so only turn them until you feel they are snug. Let the gasket do the work.
Attached the two solenoid control wires in the same positions they were in before they were removed from the old assembly.
Re-assembled the door halves, again taking care to not over-tighten the phillips-head screws. One got "spun" and I removed it and re-set it into some epoxy.
Returned power to the dishwasher, and stopped washing dishes by hand.
Note: the latch is now made with a plastic that is more dense, and likely will not fail as soon as the original one did. I think GE learned something about the durability of their component plastics since this was originally built.
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Parts Used:
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James from Naperville, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Heating element rusted and cracked
The hardest part for me was pulling the dishwasher out from under the countertop. Once it is out all you have to do is disconnect the power (or power off the fuse going to the dishwasher) then look underneath the dishwasher and you will see where the two ends of the heating element come through. Disconnect the wires connected to the ends
... Read more
by simply sliding off the connector. Then remove the plastic "nuts" that screw onto the ends of the heating element by turning them counterclockwise counterclockwise. Once the nuts are removed you can reach inside the dishwasher and remove the old heating element and replace it with the new one. Then simply replace the plastic nuts and reconnect the wires and you are good to go.
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Parts Used:
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Jason from Jersey City, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
89 of 95 people
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Water leak, small puddle to front left of dishwasher
You'll need to remove the front toe kick and (if installed, the GE Profile baffling for additional silencing action).
You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.
... Read more >You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.
Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.
Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!
Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)
You will need to disconnect the right wire connection to access the right screw (and may need to use a flat head screwdriver). You can then remove the 2 screws that hold the Valve Water Inlet on.
... Read more >You will then need to loosen and the hose clamp that attaches the water line to the Valve Water Inlet. You may need to force it undone since the rubber connection is pretty secure around the water tube inlet.
Disconnect the plastic wire housing from the Valve Water Inlet and you should now have the Valve Water Inlet disconnected.
Reverse the order and reconnect everything and you should be good to go!
Double-check for any leaks prior to pushing everything back in :)
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Parts Used:
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Greg from Burlington, VT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Socket set
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