NT19E53VG Refrigerator - Instructions

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

filled both ice cube trays up with water and placed in the freezer.. within hours my ice oproduction was doubled! no more warm cocktails : )

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

I removed control knobs and a couple of screws and forced the assembly down enough to remove the old thermostat, and insert the new one. Lucky me it was a identical replacement item. Job took about an hour.

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

This repair involved basically completely disassembling the washer. I found a reasonably usable set of step-by-step directions that got me most of the way through the process. Where there were gaps or steps missing, I was able to improvise.

The problem with my washer was that the bearings for the inner tub were shot. The only way to repair this problem is by replacing the rear outer tub. This is because the bearings and the water seal are pressed in place on the rear outer tub assembly and cannot be removed and replaced separately. It makes for a very expensive part.

Here are the steps I found elsewhere on the PartSelect forum:

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Remove the washer top.

Disconnect the touch pad/led assembly ribbon connector from the left side of the central control unit and release if from the wiring harness brackets on the right side of the washer top.

Remove the detergent dispenser drawer by pressing down on the release tab at the back of the drawer and pulling it completely out to the washer.

Once the drawer is removed, remove the screw in the recessed hole next to the drawer opening.

Release the tab securing the right side of the console to the washer and remove the console. Be sure the ribbon cable clears the cabinet frame.

Removing the washer front panel will require that the door switch be removed and the boot be separated completely from the front panel opening.

Access to the door switch requires that the water seal boot be removed from the front of the washer.

Use a flat bladed screwdriver at the location of the retainer spring and pull the retainer forward and then off the perimeter of the boot.

Ease the edge of the boot off of the lip of the washer front.

The door switch is secured to the washer front panel with three screws. Once these screws are removed, the door switch will remain in place until it is lifted slightly and pulled back from the washer front panel.

Remove the two screws securing the bottom of the front panel to the washer, and the two screws securing the top of the front panel to the washer.

Remove th detergent dispenser assembly.

Separate the water inlet and window washer tube from the boot.

Pull the water inlet tube from the outlet connector of the detergent dispenser.

When reinstalling the water inlet tube, wet the water inlet gasket on the detergent dispenser with water only. Do Not Use any other lubricant.

Remove the screw securing the front of the detergent dispenser assemble to the top front frame.

Disconnect the vent tube from the detergent dispenser assembly.

Remove the screw securing the detergent dispenser assembly to the top left frame member.

Slide the assembly back sightly and lift the assembly out.

To remove the detergent dispenser motor assembly, disconnect the cam follower spring and lift the cam follower from the diverter locate the diverter cam clockwise to access the motor mounting screws.

Disconnect the wiring harness from the heating element.

There are three concrete weights attached to the tub assembly. All three must be removed for safe removal of the tub assembly.

Access to the weight on the top front of the tub requires removing the six screws securing the top front frame member from the washer and removing the frame member.

Access to the weight on the top back of the tub requires removing the two screws securing the upper transport brace to the washer and removing the brace.

Each weight is secured to the tub by three bolts.

Remove the three bolts and lift the weight from the tub.

Remove the flat nuts from the tub for safekeeping.

At the back of the tub assembly, remove the belt.

To remove the pulley from the basket, Place the handle of a crescent wrench through the pulley and into the steel bearing hub to keep the pulley from turning.

Use a socket wrench to remove the nut securing the pulley to the basket.

Disconnect the ground wire from the bearing hub.

Remove the screw securing the left end of the pressure tube connector tot

First I took the top, front, and back off of the washer. There were about a gazillion wires and tubes so I went slow and took pictures. I had to get the old tub out so that I could replace its back half. The new outer tub contained the replacement bearing. Taking the tub out took about two hours because I went slow so that I could document the process. Once the tub was out, I split the tub in half and found a real mess of a bearing. I couldn't get the old bearing race off of the shaft, so I went to the store to get some sand paper. With sand paper I was able to smooth the shaft down enough to get the old race off. The inner tub and the outer rear tub went together pretty easy with a couple swats with a hammer. Putting the clips back on was a trick. My oldest son figured it out. This was actually a family event. I am the father of ten children so you can imagine how important a washing machine is. After another couple of hours, we had all of the wires attached and the hoses hooked up. There is a metal band that holds the plastic shroud in the front to the outer tub. It took my daughter-in-laws long piano fingers to get that put on right. When we had it working finally, the bottom drain hose was leaking. The little clamp that came with the machine wasn't doing its job. Then the metal band came back off. Well, I went back to the store and bought a 10 inch metal band clamp for the bottom hose. That did the trick. I tightened the big band real tight and everything is wonderful. My wife is happy again! No more trips to wash clothes! I saved some money and some time and it wasn't that bad.

Turned off power to Refrigerator.
1)Removed broken light switch, using a screwdriver, to gently pry it out. Then unlugged the switch from the connector. I used long nosed pliers to gently pull out the connector from inside the frig, so I could easily plug in the new light switch. I then pressed the new light switch back in place.
2) Remove light cover. I then unclipped the socket which holds the light bulb, I gently pulled it out and unplugged it from the two wires. I then attached the two wires onto the new light socket and clipped it back in place. Bingo done with both items practically no time!

The doors had many hex screws. Using the correct socket size was critical. Empty the door shelves first. The screws had to come out because the new seal had slot holes for them to go between. Take off half of the screws from the top and sides and partially remove the old seal. Attach the new seal and do the same with the bottom half. With the new seal on the lower door it at first looks like a poor seal. Gently press the door and hold it for about 5 min. Then the seal is ok. The door can then can be open and shut gently with a good seal. With a good set of sockets the work can go faster than the time given.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Due to some deformity of the gasket, it didn't seal all the way around. The instructions suggested using a heat light to warm the gasket with the door open. That didn't work too well so I closed the door and used a heat gun lightly in the areas it didn't seal. That worked great to soften the gasket so the magnet in the gasket could pull it gasket tight to the refrigerator. I let it cool with the door closed and it now seals perfectly.

r#1 removed upper hinge bracket, removed icebox door, unscrewed middle hinge bracket, removed main door, extracted broken plastic bushings, pushed in new bushings, reversed process while adjusting doors. works fine now.

#2 compared door seal with new one from partselect. Turned out that new seal is not magnetic. Had to return. Door still has bad seal.

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.