MVW7230HC1 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Pushed in on door strike and rotated it counterclockwise, removed broken strike and installed new strike. NOTE: when removing the old strike (turning counterclockwise) it felt like it might break and/or was attached with an screw that I didn't see but it came right out.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Super easy repair, simply turn the broken door strike counterclockwise to remove; insert the new door strike into the slots and turn clockwise to lock into place.

The door strike part was very simple to remove. 15 seconds at most...Part ordered and delivered a day early. Install of new part was again about 15 seconds and Wala....job completed. Thanks for the great service....will call again when needed....

Rotate the broken piece counter clockwise in the socket in the lid to release it. Install the new one in a clockwise rotation.

Using a pair of pliers turn counter clockwise to remove broken part. Install the new part by turning clockwise. Soooo easy with install time of less than a minute.

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

Ordered this part 3 times over a period of several months and never received it. Only would get emails saying it was out of stock and would be sent soon. Eventually had to but a whole new washer. Will never recomend this company or another Maytag product.

The repair went really well. And it was the right part and now we can have light in our fridge.
Thank you!
Your help and fast shipping really made a difference. I will always shop for my parts with you guys. Thank you for having things no store has. It saves alit of money all around.
Thank you again.

Siphon break kit keeps washing machine from continuing to siphon after rinse/cycle -- like emptying a pool with a hose. Fixed the problem of the tub never filling due to siphon draining out water as it's being put in.

Ordered drain hose extender. It uses a rubber flange with hose clip to attach to washer's plastic hose. When tightened, the hose clip crushes the plastic hose and crimps it, causing a leak. My solution was to find a copper pipe flange that was the same diameter as the interior of the plastic hose to act as a bushing for the plastic hose. The hose clip could then be tightened without deforming the hose. Worked great with no leaks.

It easily installed with a twist lock removal and installation. 2 minute fix.

Watched a YouTube video.
Unplug machine. Hit the power button a couple times to release any electrical energy.
Remove 6? screws on the back behind the control panel. Once screws are out, pull metal cover away from control panel. No need to remove hoses.
Lifted lid of washer and pushed in and released control panel spring clips. There is one on each side. Found this easier to do with my fingers than with a screwdriver.
Once these spring clips are released (pushed in or towards the back)you can close the lid and lift up on control panel and flip it upside down. The control board is now accessible.
Although the wiring harness plugs only fit one plug take a picture for a reminder before removing. This is also to keep the harness routed correctly.
Unplug connectors, they come off easy, if you're having trouble getting a clip to release then you may be manipulating it wrong. They are small and hard to see. Remove the tube and retaining screw.
Switch out control board, replace set screw, connectors and tube.
Replace control panel by hooking in the back of it and push down the front to engage the spring retainers.
Put the screws back in the rear and you're done.

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.