KSF26C4XYY03 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the KSF26C4XYY03
[Viewing 12 of 12]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Refrigerator Everydrop Ice & Water Filter
PartSelect #: PS11701542
Manufacturer #: EDR1RXD1
The EDR1RXD1 water filter provides clean, fresh-tasting water by reducing contaminants such as lead, chlorine, and particulates. Designed for easy installation, this filter ensures your refrigerator w...
$75.79
In Stock

Refrigerator Air Filter
PartSelect #: PS2580853
Manufacturer #: W10311524
This Refrigerator Air Filter is a white 1.8x3.2" plastic filter which neutralizes odor and bacteria in the air. It should be replaced every six months at a minimum. Refer to your user manual and model...
$16.76
In Stock

Refrigerator Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS12728638
Manufacturer #: W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
$29.37
In Stock

Refrigerator Capacitor
PartSelect #: PS11757023
Manufacturer #: WPW10662129
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor ...
$42.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$33.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Touchup Paint (White)
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$12.58
In Stock

Refrigerator Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742755
Manufacturer #: WP489483
This screw is sold individually.
$11.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Seal
PartSelect #: PS11739241
Manufacturer #: WP2198628
This part is a replacement refrigerator drive shaft seal for your refrigerator. The drive shaft seal protects the auger motor from water and condensation that may leak down the drive shaft from the ic...
$12.95
In Stock

Freezer Fan Blade
PartSelect #: PS11738973
Manufacturer #: WP2169142
If your refrigerator or freezer is too warm, or making noises, you may need to replace the fan blade. The fan blade attaches to the evaporator motor, which is in the freezer section, to help circulate...
$26.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Thimble Top
PartSelect #: PS11739043
Manufacturer #: WP2182181
For white, biscuit, black and stainless models.
$10.45
In Stock

Icemaker Motor Kit
PartSelect #: PS733947
Manufacturer #: 8201515
This kit includes the module motor, ejector arm, and ice stripper arm. The complete icemaker is sold separately.
$88.15
In Stock

Single Primary Water Inlet Valve
PartSelect #: PS11750831
Manufacturer #: WPW10238100
When energized, this part releases water from the supply line into the ice mold.
$95.95
In Stock
Manuals & Care Guides for KSF26C4XYY03
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Installation Instructions
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Installation Instructions
(2.25MB)
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Owner's Manuals
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Owner's Manuals
(8.23MB)
Questions And Answers for KSF26C4XYY03
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Randall
February 25, 2020
If the filter needs replaced, does it shut off the ice maker from making ice? If not what would cause the ice maker to stop making ice?
For model number KSF26C4XYY03
Hello Randall, Thank you for the question. If the filter needs to be replaced, it may not allow water through to the ice maker to make ice. We hope this helps.
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Swati
May 21, 2025
The fridge is cooling but not freezing and the cooling isn't cold enough, veggies are getting spoilt. does this mean there is a problem with the compressor? If so, do you have someone who can come replace the compressor and check what maybe wrong? The ice maker is not making ice either.
For model number KSF26C4XYY03
Hello Swati, thank you for reaching out. The issue appears to be with the refrigerator not cooling adequately, which also affects the ice maker's ability to produce ice. We would recommend checking the evaporator fan motor, part number PS11740362, to solve the problem. A malfunctioning evaporator fan motor can most probably cause this issue. We hope this helps!
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Phil
June 16, 2023
The refrigerator door won't stay level/square and won't close by itself. It has sunk down about 3/8". I adjusted the door a few months ago but it is out of true again. And there is a pile of shaving on the floor by the hinge. Is the screw stripped or is it a problem with the door cam or something else?
For model number KSF26C4XYY03
Hi Phil, thank you for reaching out. Based on our understanding of the issue, the issue is probably with the door cam. We recommend replacing the door cam, part number PS11751304. It helps with the closing of the door and helps keep them in position. We hope this helps!
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Dianne
March 21, 2024
Can I purchase a freezer shelf? How and how much?
For model number KSF26C4XYY03
Hi Dianne, Thank you for reaching out. The Glass Freezer Shelf is listed as PartSelect Number PS11752775. All current prices and availability is shown on the site. Good luck with the repair!
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Barbara
March 29, 2024
Can you send me the dimensions of this model - Height, width, depth - thank you!
For model number KSF26C4XYY03
Hello Barbara, thank you for contacting us. The dimensions for your model are: the height is 69.25", the width is 35.43", and the depth is 34.125". We hope this information helps!
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Common Symptoms of the KSF26C4XYY03
[Viewing 21 of 21]Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Will Not Start
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Freezer not defrosting
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Ice maker not making ice
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Leaking
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Door won’t open or close
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Clicking sound
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Fridge too cold
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Too warm
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Not dispensing water
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Door Sweating
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le
... Read more
t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Parts Used:
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garth from forest lake, MN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
424 of 524 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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Parts Used:
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Cathy from Winter Park, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
159 of 185 people
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Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
Parts Used:
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Clint from Rayville, MO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
132 of 235 people
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