KEBS107SWH00 KitchenAid Wall Oven - Overview
Sections of the KEBS107SWH00
[Viewing 5 of 5]
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Refrigerator Screw
PartSelect #: PS12349731
Manufacturer #: W11233072
This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$20.95
In Stock
Oven Halogen Bulb
PartSelect #: PS11742576
Manufacturer #: WP4452164
This halogen light bulb is a type of lamp that uses a halogen gas mixture for better lighting quality and longevity. It is an authentic OEM replacement bulb designed for use in ovens and ranges. It is...
$51.36
In Stock
Range Temperature Sensor
PartSelect #: PS11748765
Manufacturer #: WPW10131825
The temperature sensor measures the temperature inside the oven. If your oven is too hot, not heating evenly, is not heating enough when baking, or simply will not start, you could have a faulty tempe...
$68.26
In Stock
Element, Broil
PartSelect #: PS11747304
Manufacturer #: WP9760774
This broil element is found on the roof of the oven. The broil element is at the top of the oven and supplies the heat to broiling. 14" x 15" with 1-3/8" inserts.
This part works with the following...
$121.15
In Stock
Refrigerator Touchup Paint (White)
PartSelect #: PS385132
Manufacturer #: 72017
This touch-up paint can be used on a wide variety of household appliances. It is most often used on washers, dryer, refrigerators, dishwashers, ranges, freezers, trash compactors, or microwaves. It is...
$12.58
In Stock
Range Temperature Probe
PartSelect #: PS11747165
Manufacturer #: WP9755542
Also known as a meat probe.
$72.70
In Stock
Range Screw
PartSelect #: PS11741605
Manufacturer #: WP3400832
This screw is sold individually.
$7.95
In Stock
White Appliance Paint (12oz)
PartSelect #: PS347819
Manufacturer #: 350930
Appliance spray paint is a great way to cover up any chips and scratches that have appeared on your appliances. Instead of replacing the part entirely, this is an easy fix. This is also a great way to...
$26.17
In Stock
Range Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742550
Manufacturer #: WP4449809
Follow appropriate safety practices when installing your range screw. Sold individually.
$8.37
In Stock
Bake Element
PartSelect #: PS11750370
Manufacturer #: WPW10207398
This bake element is found on the bottom of the oven.
$95.65
In Stock
Broiler Pan with Roasting Rack
PartSelect #: PS1519212
Manufacturer #: W10123240
This is a 3 piece set.
$76.18
On Order
Manuals & Care Guides for KEBS107SWH00
Click to downloadInstall
Installation Instructions
(1.29MB)
Manual
Owner's Manuals
(4.76MB)
Specs
Product Specifications Sheet
(0.22MB)
Questions And Answers for KEBS107SWH00
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Common Symptoms of the KEBS107SWH00
[Viewing 8 of 8]Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Oven is too hot
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven not heating evenly
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Will Not Start
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Will not program
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Door won’t close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The broiler element in my wall oven burned out
This was easy and I'm glad I didn't go to the trouble and expense of hiring an appliance repair person. I'm reasonably handy, but I really have no experience in this kind of repair. I'd like to mention that the part I ordered arrived in just two days and it was exactly the right part, so I was very pleased in that regard.
Aft ... Read more er turning off the circuit to the wall oven and confirming that the power was off, I had to remove the oven from the wall in order to access the wires and connections in the back. Normally, this wouldn't have been necessary because usually the broiler element can be disconnected from the clasps that connect it to the electric source by simply unscrewing the defective element from the roof of the oven, pulling gently on the connection ends from inside the oven cavity in order to "pull out" an inch or two of the electric source wires and the metal clasps that accept the "male" connecting ends of the broiler element. Once the a bit of the wire and the metal connecting clasps are exposed and able to be held with pliers, the element can be disconnected from the connector clasps by simply pulling on the prongs of the element (hard).
But in my case, one of the metal connecting clasp for one of the wires had melted, presumably when the element burned out, and that clasp could only be accessed and replaced from the back of the oven. Also, I would imagine that the wires and clasps could "slip" back behind the unit when they're disconnected if that's not done carefully. However, removing the wall oven was pretty easy for me -- even as a one-person job. I just put a tall table in front of it and slid it out so that it rested on the table.
If you have to replace a metal connector clasp, they're inexpensive and available in the electrical departments of hardware/home stores.
In my case, there's a metal panel at the back of the oven that had to be unscrewed and removed so that I could access the areas where the electrical source wires connect through the back wall of the oven to the broiler element. This was just a matter of removing a few screws and then removing the metal panel.
Once the metal panel at the back of the oven was removed, I was able to replace the melted connection clasp by using a wire cutter/stripper and then pliers to secure the clasp on the end of the exposed wired by deforming the clamp with the pliers. Once that was done, I simply removed the screws that held the broiler element to the top of the oven cavity, disconnected the remaining three clasps that connect the element to the source wires (the fourth clasp was the one that had melted and that I'd replaced), removed the defective element, inserted the four "male" prongs of the broiler into the four clasps that connect them to the source wires, replaced the metal panel at the back of the oven, screwed the new element back into the top of the oven, slid the oven back into the wall cavity, turned the circuit back on, crossed my fingers, and everything worked like a charm.
I saved a money, but more importantly (for me) I saved a lot of time that I would have had to have spent waiting around for a repair person.
Aft ... Read more er turning off the circuit to the wall oven and confirming that the power was off, I had to remove the oven from the wall in order to access the wires and connections in the back. Normally, this wouldn't have been necessary because usually the broiler element can be disconnected from the clasps that connect it to the electric source by simply unscrewing the defective element from the roof of the oven, pulling gently on the connection ends from inside the oven cavity in order to "pull out" an inch or two of the electric source wires and the metal clasps that accept the "male" connecting ends of the broiler element. Once the a bit of the wire and the metal connecting clasps are exposed and able to be held with pliers, the element can be disconnected from the connector clasps by simply pulling on the prongs of the element (hard).
But in my case, one of the metal connecting clasp for one of the wires had melted, presumably when the element burned out, and that clasp could only be accessed and replaced from the back of the oven. Also, I would imagine that the wires and clasps could "slip" back behind the unit when they're disconnected if that's not done carefully. However, removing the wall oven was pretty easy for me -- even as a one-person job. I just put a tall table in front of it and slid it out so that it rested on the table.
If you have to replace a metal connector clasp, they're inexpensive and available in the electrical departments of hardware/home stores.
In my case, there's a metal panel at the back of the oven that had to be unscrewed and removed so that I could access the areas where the electrical source wires connect through the back wall of the oven to the broiler element. This was just a matter of removing a few screws and then removing the metal panel.
Once the metal panel at the back of the oven was removed, I was able to replace the melted connection clasp by using a wire cutter/stripper and then pliers to secure the clasp on the end of the exposed wired by deforming the clamp with the pliers. Once that was done, I simply removed the screws that held the broiler element to the top of the oven cavity, disconnected the remaining three clasps that connect the element to the source wires (the fourth clasp was the one that had melted and that I'd replaced), removed the defective element, inserted the four "male" prongs of the broiler into the four clasps that connect them to the source wires, replaced the metal panel at the back of the oven, screwed the new element back into the top of the oven, slid the oven back into the wall cavity, turned the circuit back on, crossed my fingers, and everything worked like a charm.
I saved a money, but more importantly (for me) I saved a lot of time that I would have had to have spent waiting around for a repair person.
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Parts Used:
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David from Catonsville, MD
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
34 of 36 people
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Oven lights out
There are two lights in this model oven. The glass will open by pulling outward on the near end. Since these are halogen bulbs I used a clean cloth to hold the bulb while replacing. Bulbs are expensive especially when purchased from Kitchen Aid dealer. I got two bulbs from PartsSelect delivered in two days for considerably less.
Parts Used:
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Rex from Amarillo, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
31 of 36 people
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Light bulb out in oven
Removed a screw and clip to remove the lens and replaced bulb. Then replaced clip and screw. Done.
Parts Used:
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Lee from Loveland, CO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
35 of 54 people
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