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JED8430ADW Jenn-Air Cooktop - Overview

Sections of the JED8430ADW

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Range Grease Filter – Part Number: WPY706012
Range Grease Filter
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(37)
PartSelect #: PS11757584
Manufacturer #: WPY706012
This is a grease filter, and it works with your range/stove/oven. This part is chrome-colored and measures 16.5 inches long by 9 inches wide. It is made of metal and is intended for use with downdraft...
$45.11
  In Stock
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Dryer Screw – Part Number: WP90767
Dryer Screw
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$7.95
  In Stock
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Surface Burner Switch – Part Number: W11088181
Surface Burner Switch
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(16)
PartSelect #: PS12070671
Manufacturer #: W11088181
This is the replacement surface burner switch for your range. It measures approximately 1.5 inches by 1.5 inches, with a shaft that is approximately 1 inch long. The surface burner switch turns the su...
$77.91
  In Stock
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Dual Surface Burner Switch Kit – Part Number: 12002125
Dual Surface Burner Switch Kit
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PartSelect #: PS2003583
Manufacturer #: 12002125
This switch is used to operate the dual surface burner.
$54.01
  In Stock
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Cooktop Cleaner – Part Number: TJ114
Cooktop Cleaner
PartSelect #: PS2344170
Manufacturer #: TJ114
Cleans/Polishes all glass, ceramic, porcelain and fiberglass surfaces.
  No Longer Available
Range Infinite Switch Knob – Part Number: WP74009593
Range Infinite Switch Knob
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PartSelect #: PS11744335
Manufacturer #: WP74009593
This infinite switch knob is two inches long. It is light gray in color and is made of plastic. This knob has a dark gray indicator dot.
$23.95
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6 Inch Element with Limiter – Part Number: W10823704
6 Inch Element with Limiter
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PartSelect #: PS11764912
Manufacturer #: W10823704
This element can be used for the left front or right rear.
$120.23
  In Stock
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Infinite Switch Grommet – Part Number: WPY706102
Infinite Switch Grommet
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PartSelect #: PS11757586
Manufacturer #: WPY706102
$9.95
  In Stock
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Fan Control Switch – Part Number: WP74009254
Fan Control Switch
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PartSelect #: PS11744308
Manufacturer #: WP74009254
Introducing the Fan Control Switch from Whirlpool, a top-tiering brand known for its unwavering commitment to quality. This is a genuine OEM part, intricately crafted to function with optimal efficien...
$123.20
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Range Screw – Part Number: WPY706189
Range Screw
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PartSelect #: PS11757587
Manufacturer #: WPY706189
$7.95
  In Stock
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Range Screw – Part Number: WP4159193
Range Screw
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PartSelect #: PS11742292
Manufacturer #: WP4159193
This screw is sold individually.
$9.00
  In Stock
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Range Screw – Part Number: WP98008545
Range Screw
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PartSelect #: PS11747488
Manufacturer #: WP98008545
Sold Individually.
$7.95
  In Stock
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Manuals & Care Guides for JED8430ADW

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Questions And Answers for JED8430ADW

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David
November 27, 2024
Right-front burner heats up but doesn’t maintain heat temperature consistently .
For model number JED8430ADW
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Hi David, Thank you for your question. If the right front burner does not heat up you will need to check both the element and the switch. Before inspecting these parts with a multimeter on the Rx1 setting, unplug the range from the electrical outlet. First visually inspect the element for signs of bubbling, burning, wear, holes, or damage. If there are no signs of damage, then test it with a multimeter. Touch each of the terminals one at a time with one probe while holding the other probe to the outside surface of the element. If either terminal shows continuity, it is defective. To test the entire element for continuity, place each of the probes on the terminals, one on each. The exact reading you should receive varies between models. Refer to your owner’s manual to determine what yours should be. If any element has a reading outside of 19 to 115 ohms, it is defective. If you do not receive the correct readings from the tests above or find damage on your element, you will need a replacement surface burner element. For the switch, visually inspect the wires near the switch for signs of burning and overheated wires or terminals. If there are no visual signs of damage, use the multimeter probes and touch the L1 and H1 terminals. Once you have tested these terminals, test the L2 and H2 terminals. If your test results indicate that there is no continuity between one or both sets of terminals, you need a replacement infinite switch. We hope this helps!

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Common Symptoms of the JED8430ADW

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Outer element of dual element burner didn't work
Remove Ceran Galss top by removing hex screws below the rim. Also remove the two opposing screws in the center of the downdraft opening. Ceran top comes off easily now.
The instructions with the new switch were very poorly written, so here is how I got the new switch to work:
Attach the black wire(s) from the old switch (terminal 2) to the new switch terminal P1. Also attach the jumper cable to P1 and "jump" it to S1.

Attach the orange wire (old switch terminal 5) to S2
Attach the yellow wire (old switch terminal 4) to 4a
Attach the tan/(white?) wire (old switch terminal 3) to terminal 4 on the new switch
Attach the single red wire from the right front element to terminal 2 on the new switch.
Attach the 'compound' red wires (the ones that come from the left rear/outlet connection and is also attached to the right rear switch) to terminal P2 on the new switch.
There is no need to seperate the compound red wires as the instructions might lead you to believe.
Good Luck
Parts Used:
Dual Surface Burner Switch Kit
  • Michael from Collierville, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
140 of 183 people found this instruction helpful.
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The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.
The repair itself was very easy. “How to connect” was very hard to get.


To get access to the switch, unscrew 2 screws from each side of front panel and then 4 screws from the bottom of it (open the door first). Have a box or a small table about 30” high to use it as support for the front panel.

The end result (colors for the Right Front- R.F.- burner) : Old label -> New label

1. Double RED: N -> P2 (incoming power, Line 1)
2. Single RED: N -> 2 (to Inner AND Outer heating elements common wire)
3. Single BLK: L1 -> P1 (incoming power, Line 2)
4. Single TAN: H1 -> 4 (to the Inner heating element)
5. Single YEL: H2-> 4a (to the Inner heating element)
6. Single BLK: P -> S2 (to the R.F. indicator control light)
7. Attach jumper black wire (included with new switch) from P1 (P1 has two connectors close together) to S1.

Done.
Parts Used:
Dual Surface Burner Switch Kit
  • Igor from Campbell, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
53 of 62 people found this instruction helpful.
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old switch had shorted and burned out
This was a range top. i removed the 12 hex machine scews holding on the top, then removed the two star screws holding the old switch. there were fore wire that had fitted on tabs. Hooked them to the new swtch and reassembeld. Easy repair since i could lift the unit out without disconnecting main cables. Replacement range would have been oveer $1000. Psrt was under $40 and delivered in a matter of days.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch
  • Larry from Hampton Cove, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
37 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
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