Parts That Fix Inglis Washer ITW4300XQ0 Will not drain
This direct drive motor coupling (Direct Drive Washer Motor Coupling, Motor Coupling, Washer Motor Coupling, Coupling Kit) provides a cushioned connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. It attaches to the direct-drive transmission and the motor shaft. If this part is defective it will affect the agitator in your washer because of its direct connection with the motor. Your washer may not agitate, spin slowly, or not spin at all. The coupling must be replaced when there is no longer a consistent connection between the transmission and the motor shaft. The coupling can wear over time because of its location between two major parts of the dryer. It is subject to material fatigue over time from normal use, or breakage caused by frequent overloading. The part measures approximately 2 inches in diameter, and is constructed of plastic and metal. This model comes in black/white.
This part is found in your washer. The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed. This part includes the green grounding wire. If your machine is having trouble starting, is not agitating, spinning, or is not draining properly, this could be because the lid switch has broken. You will need a 5/16-inch nut driver for this repair. The package will contain one lid switch. You will need to access the back of the washer, and remove the two Phillips screws that hold the top back panel in place. Slide the panel forward to release. Use your nut driver to loosen the screw that holds the ground wire in place. Lift the lid of the washer to release the old lid switch.
A clutch assembly (Clutch, Washer Clutch) is found in your washing machine and is responsible for spinning the basket during the spin cycle. The clutch lining can wear over time. If the clutch lining is worn out, the clutch assembly will not rotate properly to release the brake. If you notice a burning smell, or the machine shaking and moving more than normal, this could indicate there is an issue with your clutch. If the washer spins when the washer basket is empty but not when it’s full, or if the assembly begins to turn blue, you may need to replace the clutch assembly. This assembly includes a brake cam driver, blue springs for large capacity washers, a black spring for compact washers, and the installation instructions. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in beige/silver.
This kit is used for replacing the agitator directional cogs (Agitator Dogs, Agitator Repair Kit, Washer Agitator Dogs, Agitator Dog Ears). The agitator is what creates the thrusting motion in your washer to tumble your clothes during the washer cycle. Your agitator will rotate one way, and not the other. The agitator dogs are what prevent the agitator from rotating in both directions, while allowing it to rotate in one direction. Your agitator cogs may be malfunctioning if you can manually rotate the agitator in both directions. If broken they will need to be replaced. Cogs can be found by simply removing the softener dispenser and then removing the agitator cap. The are attached to the agitator. This replacement part features 4 agitator directional cogs. There are 4 cogs per package that are made up of high-quality plastic. This part comes in white/beige.
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This is a 2-speed drive motor for your washing machine. The motor rotates the spin basket when the washing machine is in spin or tumbling mode. You will likely need to replace the motor if you are experiencing burning smells or your washer will not start. The tools you will need to make this repair include a number two Phillips screwdriver, a flat-blade screwdriver, and a 5/16 nut driver.
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be careful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.