GTW490ACJ2WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Drain all the water out of the tub with a shop vac
Remove rear drain hose and drained rest of water into a bucket
Remove small rear panel (bottom left hand corner) where the drain hose connects
Tipped washer up about 45 degrees to get underneath it - Supported it with a few paint cans
Remove internal drain hose/clamps from pump - w/ pliers
Remove belt cover (gray plastic) with socket - 3 bolts
Remove wire assembly plug from socket
Remove old drain pump with socket - 3 bolts
Install new drain pump - 3 bolts - plug wire assembly into socket
Reinstall belt cover - 3 bolts
Reinstall hose to drain pump (note panel will be inside washer)
Feed drain hose panel through hole and reinstall - 1 nut
Re attached drain hose to exterior drain plug
You are done !

Lift up door removed lid lock with screwdriver installed new part

Very simple to repair. Be sure to drain the tub outside or into the sump pump then lay the washer on its side. The pump is right there on the bottom of the basket with 3 bolts. You will also need to remove the belt cover to get to the plug. So simple and saves you hundreds off repair man prices.

Turn off hot and cold water supply valves feeding washer.
Disconnect both water hoses from washing machine.
Remove two screws (one on each side) from upper silver colored metal plate on back of washer to allow access to (blue) water inlet valve.
Slightly lift the bottom portion of metal plate and slide to release hooks for easy removal.
Pull back and tilt forward plastic control panel to get it out of your way.
Disconnect two electrical connections (one on each side) of water inlet valve. One of these came off easily but the other one was stubborn and I had to force it off with a screw driver. If there is an easier way I don't know what it is.
Remove two screws from water inlet valve. (one on each side)
Gently pull up on stainless steel water temperature sensor located in the middle of the water inlet control valve. It has a black wire connected to it so be careful.
Once you have disconnect the sensor you can remove the water inlet valve.
If you look closely you will see a small blue O-ring in the hole where you removed the water temp sensor from the water inlet valve.
The new valve DOES NOT come with a replacement O-ring so you
will have to re-use the old one. I used a small jeweler's screwdriver to get the old out of the hole.
Don't forget to install the O-ring or your washer WILL leak!
Put everything back together in reverse order.
Check hose connections for leaks.
Hope this helps somebody. Wish I had known about the O-ring. It would have saved me a headache.

I thought it was the control board from the onset, but 'Online experts" said it was more likely the mode shifter or the lid lock. I ordered one of each, did not correct problem. Ordered the control board that was designated for this unit, it did not correct problem. Defective? Was send replacememnt, did not fix problem. Twice? Phone conversation with parts person, and after a little digging, it was NOT the correct board, correct board was not available.
Returned all parts, refunds all around. Ordered correct board from another site, installed, programed, SUCCESS! Total repair time/installation-less than 15 minutes. Getting the correct part 30 days.

part select help

The replacement part looked absolutely nothing like the defective part. The old part was easily accessible and was easily unplugged from the wiring harness. I assume when the new part came, I would just plug it into the wiring harness, snap some of the trim pieces in place and be done. 5 minutes. But no. The replacement part was completely different and came with its own wiring harness and length
of wire which had to be installed. The installation of the wiring harness was extremely complicated which involved popping off the control panel of the washer, prying up the top and disconnecting some other pieces to complete the install. There should have been a clear warning on the replacement part, that it was completely different and likely too difficult for a non-professional repair man.

Tilt washer back.
Remove belt gaurd.
Remove belt.
Remove pulley.
Remove clutch and shifter.
Install in reverse order

Put washer on it side. Removed shield belt and pulley from motor.
Unplugged and unsnapped speed sensor and replaced with new one . Washer spinning like it should. Problem solved

Use putty knife to unlock top panel from base. Remove 2 bolts from back of washer holding control section. Don't take completely off. 2 bolts needs to be removed to unsecure top from base. Lastly 2 screws hold lid in place. Remove lid. Slide top panel to left just to access lid lock. Unplug sensor. 1 screw and tabs hold lock in place. Watch position coming out so you don't get confused putting new lock in. Squeeze tabs, replace screw. plug in sensor. Reverse procedure to put top section back together.

You will need to shut off the water, unplug the washer, disconnect the water lines, disconnect and drain the drain line, tip the washer either at an angle or on its side, remove motor cover, disconnect drain pump electrical cable, remove drain pump, install new drain pump, reconnect drain pump electrical cable, reconnect drain line and water supplies, turn water back on and test the washer.

Note: I thought the drain pump was bad for 2 reasons. 1 was the washer had previously started to smell, indicating the washer might not be fully draining. 2 was that the washer would agitate (meaning motor seemed fine) but when it would normally start draining before spinning, the washer would do nothing (could hear a faint hum coming from the washer).

Unplug the connector to the old lock release. Plug the connector into the new lock release. Snap in the tabs that hold it into place. Then the bezel just snaps in and you're good to go!

year and a half old unit.
The Mode selector failed to properly engage the gears and gears were grinding.
O moved dryer out of area. And then turned off water, disconnected the hoses from wall. Placed hoses including drain hose into 5-gallon bucket and clamped so they would stay. I then moved washer away from wall about 2'. Then tipped it back against wall. Used 2x4 to keep it there as a support. (Doing this allowed me to keep it in the area and not dump water on floor. Then removed the gear guard, gears and mode selector. Reinstalled all parts and packed gears with synthetic grease made for plastic. It is now working like new. Parts were exact match. Took 30 minutes. Also cleaned the dryer vet line while I had it apart.

I watch a YouTube video with the same problem and follow each step

I unplugged the machine from the power source and removed the drain hose from the back and allowed any remaining water to drain out of the machine. I then tipped the machine back so that I could work underneath it and secured it in that position. I removed the old drain pump assembly by first disconnecting it from the outflow hose, then removing the three bolts which held the motor housing cover on and disconnecting it from the power source. This part was the the most difficult and time-consuming as the wires are plugged in very tightly but once those were separated, it was just a matter of unscrewing the drain pump assembly from where it was anchored to the underside of the washing machine. I simply reversed those steps to install the new one and it was in place within 10 minutes. Set the washing machine down in the correct position, reconnected the drain hose, and plug the machine in. I did reset the fault codes by using the manual found taped to the underside of the machine, but this was very simple to do and only took a few minutes. I’m not sure if it was necessary to do that step at the machine works perfectly now. I am a woman and found this repair very easy to do.