GSE23GYPBCFS General Electric Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the GSE23GYPBCFS
[Viewing 9 of 9]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Refrigerator Temperature Sensor
PartSelect #: PS304103
Manufacturer #: WR55X10025
This sensor (Temperature Sensor, Thermistor, Refrigerator Temperature Sensor) sends the temperature reading of the compartment to the control board. If you notice your refrigerator is too warm, too co...
$28.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Heater Harness Kit
PartSelect #: PS1993872
Manufacturer #: WR51X10101
This dual heater kit replaces the single heater. It's redesigned to use two heating elements for a better defrost cycle.
$56.38
In Stock

Refrigerator Dispenser Door Assembly Or Flapper
PartSelect #: PS964304
Manufacturer #: WR17X11653
This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air fro...
$22.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Fan Grommet
PartSelect #: PS963756
Manufacturer #: WR02X12008
If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan...
$12.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Dispenser Door Solenoid Assembly
PartSelect #: PS1483583
Manufacturer #: WR62X10055
This genuine OEM solenoid is designed for use with GE refrigerators and controls the opening and closing of the ice chute door. It serves as a direct replacement for a worn or faulty solenoid, helping...
$53.41
In Stock

DOOR DAIRY
PartSelect #: PS16619589
Manufacturer #: WR71X38317
This is the replacement dairy door for a refrigerator. It is installed on the inner door and rotates up and down to allow access to the dairy compartment. It is made of clear plastic. If your dairy do...
$36.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Union Connector 5/16 To 5/16
PartSelect #: PS758446
Manufacturer #: WR02X11330
Quick connector for plastic water line - 5/16" to 5/16"
$14.95
In Stock

REFRIGERATOR DOOR LIGHT SWITCH
PartSelect #: PS12727313
Manufacturer #: WR23X31507
This is the light switch that goes in your refrigerator. If the light is not working or stays on, you may need to replace the switch. It is made of mainly white plastic, and is an OEM part, directly f...
$15.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Ring
PartSelect #: PS1015726
Manufacturer #: WR02X12149
This compression ring is meant to hold the evaporator fan motor in place in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. This is is a genuine OEM part. The tools needed to complete this repair are a ...
$13.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Water Filter
PartSelect #: PS16217433
Manufacturer #: XWFE
This water filter is found in the rear upper-right corner of the interior of the refrigerator. If your model has a replacement indicator light it will turn red to signal the need for a replacement. If...
$74.64
In Stock

Refrigerator Water Tank Assembly
PartSelect #: PS783769
Manufacturer #: WR17X11440
This tank stores water until the water actuator is activated and water is requested.
$53.41
In Stock

SHELF MODULE FF
PartSelect #: PS16619590
Manufacturer #: WR71X38318
This door bin is for refrigerators and attaches to the inside of the refrigerator door and typically holds jars and bottles. Follow the instructions in the owner's manual for installing this part.
$47.95
In Stock
Questions And Answers for GSE23GYPBCFS
Be the first to ask our experts a question about this model!
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
Sorry, we couldn't find a match for "".
Here's a guide for finding your model number.
Something went wrong. Please try again later.
Your Question Has Been Submitted!
Our experts will send you an email as soon as your question has been answered.
Common Symptoms of the GSE23GYPBCFS
[Viewing 24 of 24]Fridge too warm
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Leaking
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Noisy
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Freezer section too warm
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Not dispensing water
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Freezer not defrosting
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Light not working
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Ice maker won’t dispense ice
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Fridge too cold
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Door won’t open or close
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Frost buildup
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Door Sweating
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Freezer too cold
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Fridge and Freezer are too warm
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Ice maker not making ice
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Too warm
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Fridge runs too long
Fixed by
these parts
these parts



Show All
Clicking sound
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Will Not Start
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Ice maker dispenses too little ice
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Ice maker dispenses too much ice
Fixed by
these parts
these parts


Show All
Doesn’t stop running
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Too cold
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Leaks water
Fixed by
these parts
these parts

Show All
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Defrost Heater blows out, refrigerator frosts up, then stops cooling
Disclaimer - if you aren't confident about doing this repair, call a repair specialist in. Also, take care not to damage the freezer coils as they have refrigerant in them that I'm told is harmful if it leaks. It may also be under pressure. The instructions that follow won't require you to touch the coils. There is no need to unplug the r
... Read more
efrigerator or disconnect the water supply to do this repair. The screw driver you will need is a phillips (the one withe the + head).
1st, take out your frozen food (which, if you need to do this repair may not be frozen) and put it in a cooler or the refrigerator.
2nd, remove the ice cube bucket and dump the ice cubes in the cooler to help keep the frozen food cool. Turn the ice cube maker off.
3rd, remove the freezer shelves.
4th, locate the panel covering the freezer coils. It's a panel at the back of the freezer. It hides the freezer coils and protects them from damage. It's held in place by two screws located at the top left and right corners of the panel.
5th, unscrew the screws holding the panel to the refrigerator.
6th, detach the clip at the top of the panel.
7th, remove the panel. You should see the coils now. The coils will be covered in frost if the defroster heater has failed. If the coils are not covered in frost, there may be another reason for the refrigerator failing to cool.
8th, even if the coils are covered in frost, you should also inspect the defroster heater at the bottom, underneath the coils. The business end of it is a long tube running horizontally between two wires. If it's black like a badly burned out light bulb, then it's failed. If the bulb appears fine, you may have a different reason for your refrigerator and freezer frosting up. We'll assume that the defroster heater has blown out, and proceed.
9th, place a towel at the bottom of the panel space, to soak up any water that melts and runs down. There is a drain under the coils. It collects water that melts during the defrost cycle, but I'd rather mop up the water instead of relying on the drain.
10th, use hot air blowing from the hair dryer to defrost the coils. Just play the air from the hair dryer over the coils, starting at the top, and working down. The frost will quickly melt and the water will be soaked up by the towels. If you want things to go faster, you can throw hot water on the coils to melt them faster, but that produces more water to mop up, and makes a big mess. It's also dangerous to have water lying around if you then decide to use the hair dryer to continue defrosting the coils.
11th. MOST IMPORTANT. Don't use your screwdriver or any other sharp object to pick away at the frost on the coils. If you damage the coils the refrigerant could leak out. I'm told that it's dangerous stuff. Furthermore, I expect that you'd have to buy a new refrigerator if you damaged the coils.
12th, once you've defrosted the coils, locate the defroster heater and bracket assembly again. It's held in place by two screws, and has two insulated wires running into it on either side. Unscrew the screws, disconnect the wires and remove the assembly. Throw it away - there are no useful parts in it.
13th, install the new defroster heater and bracket assembly by connecting the wires to it, mounting it back into its place, and rescrewing the screws.
14th, put the panel back in place, replace the clip, and screw the panel back in place.
15th, turn the ice cube maker back on and replace the ice cube bucket and shelves. Put your food back into the freezer.
16th, use the freezer and refrigerator as normal. If the defroster heater fails again (I'm on my third one in less than six years), you'll notice frost building up on the panel at the back of the freezer before your freezer and refrigerator stops cooling. The frost build up is your signal to defrost the freezer and buy another defroster heater and bracket assembly. I don't know why this part is so weak, and don't know any fix except to keep replacing it.
1st, take out your frozen food (which, if you need to do this repair may not be frozen) and put it in a cooler or the refrigerator.
2nd, remove the ice cube bucket and dump the ice cubes in the cooler to help keep the frozen food cool. Turn the ice cube maker off.
3rd, remove the freezer shelves.
4th, locate the panel covering the freezer coils. It's a panel at the back of the freezer. It hides the freezer coils and protects them from damage. It's held in place by two screws located at the top left and right corners of the panel.
5th, unscrew the screws holding the panel to the refrigerator.
6th, detach the clip at the top of the panel.
7th, remove the panel. You should see the coils now. The coils will be covered in frost if the defroster heater has failed. If the coils are not covered in frost, there may be another reason for the refrigerator failing to cool.
8th, even if the coils are covered in frost, you should also inspect the defroster heater at the bottom, underneath the coils. The business end of it is a long tube running horizontally between two wires. If it's black like a badly burned out light bulb, then it's failed. If the bulb appears fine, you may have a different reason for your refrigerator and freezer frosting up. We'll assume that the defroster heater has blown out, and proceed.
9th, place a towel at the bottom of the panel space, to soak up any water that melts and runs down. There is a drain under the coils. It collects water that melts during the defrost cycle, but I'd rather mop up the water instead of relying on the drain.
10th, use hot air blowing from the hair dryer to defrost the coils. Just play the air from the hair dryer over the coils, starting at the top, and working down. The frost will quickly melt and the water will be soaked up by the towels. If you want things to go faster, you can throw hot water on the coils to melt them faster, but that produces more water to mop up, and makes a big mess. It's also dangerous to have water lying around if you then decide to use the hair dryer to continue defrosting the coils.
11th. MOST IMPORTANT. Don't use your screwdriver or any other sharp object to pick away at the frost on the coils. If you damage the coils the refrigerant could leak out. I'm told that it's dangerous stuff. Furthermore, I expect that you'd have to buy a new refrigerator if you damaged the coils.
12th, once you've defrosted the coils, locate the defroster heater and bracket assembly again. It's held in place by two screws, and has two insulated wires running into it on either side. Unscrew the screws, disconnect the wires and remove the assembly. Throw it away - there are no useful parts in it.
13th, install the new defroster heater and bracket assembly by connecting the wires to it, mounting it back into its place, and rescrewing the screws.
14th, put the panel back in place, replace the clip, and screw the panel back in place.
15th, turn the ice cube maker back on and replace the ice cube bucket and shelves. Put your food back into the freezer.
16th, use the freezer and refrigerator as normal. If the defroster heater fails again (I'm on my third one in less than six years), you'll notice frost building up on the panel at the back of the freezer before your freezer and refrigerator stops cooling. The frost build up is your signal to defrost the freezer and buy another defroster heater and bracket assembly. I don't know why this part is so weak, and don't know any fix except to keep replacing it.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Stuart from Lynchburg, VA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
408 of 434 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
... Read more />After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.
... Read more />After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.
I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
Read less
Parts Used:
-
michele from North Smithfield, RI
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers
297 of 381 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
refrigerator was getting too cold
I removed the old temperature sensor by cutting the wires. I attached the wires of the new sensor with wire nuts and mounted it in the same bracket.
Parts Used:
-
Larry from Menomonie, WI
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
149 of 215 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!