GSDL112F02WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

First and formost before you buy read everything in trouble shooting your dishwasher. Then you do not buy parts you do not need. First you turn off power, then water. Remove two screws, a rubber hose and a hard line by unscrewing if you are lucky some contractors might sweat this on. No biggie just two extra steps that's all. do in reverse to assemble...

It is a simple process to replace the drain solenoid on these dishwashers, having replaced several in the past few months.

After removing the front bottom panels, I removed the 2 screws holding the old solenoid, unplugged the wire harness, and then switched over the springs to the new solenoid. Assembly was installing 2 screws, and plugging in the wire harness.

I work on a 260 + unit property, as well as working for a property management company who rents single family homes.

PartSelect.com is an excellent source of parts, shipping in a quick manner, allowing the repairs to be completed in a timely manner. Thank you.

The most difficult part was removing the dishwasher from below the counter. Once that was complete, I simply turned the washer onto it's front surface to access the pump easier. Simply disconnected the electrical connectors, loosened the three hose clamps holding the hoses to the pump. Lastly removed a stiff arm bracket holding the pump. Reversed the order to install the new one using a longer bracket provided with the new unit. Hooked up the electrical connections last and slid the washer back in place. The washer runs like new now and is not making noise. The replacement part was a perfect match.

In order to access the fill valve, dishwasher had to be removed from under countertop. Disconnected water supply line and drain hose under sink. Unplugged unit and removed 2 screws holding unit to countertop. I was then able to pull unit out and replace valve. After reinstallation, the same problem existed. Further research pointed to the control module, approx. $100.00 or the motor, approx. $250.00 - $300.00. I than began looking at new dishwashers, but I did email GE with the problem. They suggested I use citric acid or vinegar in hot water, pour into right rear portion of tub and wait 1/2 hour. After doing that, the dishwasher worked perfectly.

took dishwasher out- put on table to work on-removed wire brace- disconected drain outlet- disconnected top drive seal- removed wire clip connector- removed motor unit----------------
installed new motor/drain unit--used new longer wire brac used adapter to connect electical leads-
tightened clamps and bingo it worked and didnt' leak. good job on the supplying of all the necessary adapers.

Did the install a few days ago 4.25.11 and all went smoothly. The instructions that came with the kit were very straightforward and the diagrams were extremely helpful in locating brackets/hoses/connections. My dad thought he would just get down there and do it, but wasn't sure what to do. Using the directions with the kit, I had the motor and pump off in under 5 minutes. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS WITH THE KIT!

Some things to note:
- Get some towels/cups/bowls, we had some water leaking from the dishwasher and hoses.
- Be careful removing the dishwasher from the counters, go slow.


1. Shut off electricity
2. Shut off water. I just shut closed the line that went directly to the dishwasher.
3. Removed screws from bottom panel to expose motor and pump assembly.
4. Removed screws securing the dishwasher to the counters.
5. Slowly slid dishwasher from counter and rotated so door was facing the ground carefully to ensure wires/hoses were not pulled or crushed.
6. Removed screw from bottom of motor that was secured to the hanger.
7. Removed ground screw from bottom of motor.
8. Removed all wired connections from the motor and pump.
9. Loosened hose clamp securing the drain line and removed from motor.
10. Loosened 2x hose clamps securing the motor and pump assembly to dishwasher.
11. Ensured everything was clear and disconnected, and slowly removed motor and pump assembly from dishwasher.
12. Test fit new motor and pump assembly.
13. Reconnected 2x connections to the motor and pump.
14. Secured the ground wire to the motor and pump.
15. Slid motor and pump onto dishwasher and secured the 2x hose clamps.
16. Secured screw from the hanger cable to the motor and pump.
17. Reconnected water line to motor and pump, and tightened hose clamp.
18. Ensured all connections were made, hose clamps were tightened, and there were no extra connections.
19. Rotated dishwasher back onto feet.
20. Slowly slid dishwasher back into counters ensuring no cables or hoses were kinked or crushed.
21. Restored electricity and water to dishwasher, and then performed a quick test of one cycle to check for leeks.
22. Secured bottom panel and dishwasher to counters.
23. Enjoyed having a working dishwasher again!

First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...

Ordered the part, by using the diagram on the ge website identified the part and ordered it right them and when it came (delivered really fast) took it out of the bag and screwed it in the jet dry despenser and is working great.

Traced the problem back to the water valve. turned off the water. Disconnected the water inlet and outlet lines. removed the 2 mounting screws and unplugged the terminals.

The hardest part was removing the dishwasher from under the counter and cleaning up the large amount of water that poured out when I turned the unit on its side.
The actual pump replacement was pretty easy except there were a lot of extra parts that were only needed for other brands or other models.
I might have tightened one of the large clamps too much as there was a very slight leak after I was done. One or two drops of water per cycle, which evaporates quickly and not worth taking apart again.
It was not hard but took longer than predicted.
Much better than buying a new dishwasher or paying the estimated $350 to an appliance repair company.

Rather than remove the dishwasher from the counter, I performed the repair inplace, which was much less work (although I did have to lay on the floor).
After turning off the power, I removed the two access panels at the bottom of the unit, disconnected the wiring from the pump and solenoid, loosened the drain hose fitting and drained most of the water out of the unit and into a shallow pan (the drain solenoid was stuck open, so this was pretty easy - otherwise, I still could have manually actuated the drain valve & solenoid to drain water through this hose).
There was alot of water in the unit and my pan overflowed a little. If I was doing this again, think I would have disconnected the drain hose from under the sink and drained out through that into a bucket (I could have controlled that flow better).
Once the water was out, there are just two hose clamps that hold the pump onto the unit (one on top and one in the back), and a stabilizer bar that connects the motor to the front frame. Removed these and the whole unit came right out.
The replacement pump & motor was exactly the same as the one that came out, so I didn't need any of the hose or wire adapters that came in the kit.
Reconnected the two pump connections, motor bracket and wiring, and the unit was good-to-go!

I cut the water off to the DW, unscrewed the water connection to the inlet valve, unplugged the electric connection, disconnected the black rubber line from the valve to the washer, removed the 2 screws holding the valve in place. Put the new valve on by doing the above backwards. I also used white thread tape on any connections that needed it.

Actually, the problem started with a Timer Motor failure, and that let the dishwasher run for 4 hours (doh!). Immediately, I tested and ordered the timer, which unfortunately didn't come as just a motor, it came as an assembly. I installed it, and the dishwasher ran the cycle just fine.

Except it didn't drain.

After poking around, I noticed the drain solenoid had apparently been overworked; the timer must have failed on DRAIN. The solenoid was severely overheated, and thankfully didn't cause a fire, but it was somewhat melted. Replaced the solenoid, and all is well, especially when my wife was eyeballing a $1000 Bosch!

This is a great website. I ordered my part on Wednesday night and it arrived Saturday morning without paying any extra for shipping. Plus since I am a female, this website enabled me to easily and affordably make the repair myself without having to worry about a repair man trying to take advantage of someone that they think they can.

I first made sure that there was nothing stuck in the drain area inside of the dishwasher. That meant I had to bail out all the standing water and then unscrew the mesh cover from the bottom. Since there was nothing in there I ordered a new solenoid.

First I unplugged the dishwasher. Then I removed the screws with a screwdriver that held the bottom cover on the dishwasher. Once I could see the installed solenoid, I put together the pieces of the replacement solenoid that I bought so I was sure to install the new one correctly. That did not require any tools. Then I unscrewed the two screws that held the solenoid in place and removed the little metal ring from the shaft which was the last piece holding it in place. Getting that ring off was tricky. I ended up using a pair of tweezers to pull it off. After that I put the new part on and screwed it in with the two screws provided. The little metal ring went on much easier than the old one came off. I screwed the bottom cover back on and voila! my dishwasher was fixed.

Unscrew supply tube and angle nut from old valve. Disconnect tube from valve. Install new valve. Obtain new crimp seal for water supply tube. Use Teflon tape. Reconnect water tube to valve.