GSD2100V65BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Lower rack wheel was melted
Unsnapped clip,and moved it 90 degrees. Slip wheel and clip off. Installed clip on new wheel. replaced new wheel. The wheel did not come with a new clip and was not suggested on the parts list. The existing clip was still OK but if it was not, I would have had to order a clip and wait. All in all, a good experience.
Parts Used:
-
Mark from Huntingdon Valley, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
522 of 548 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The rear wheels were missing on the lower rack.
The wheels came with a clip on part that clipped to the rack and the wheel snapped into that clip. I am a woman and it was easy for me to do. Thanks to Parts Select for being an easy to use and navigate site, for quick shipment and for good directions with the parts. Sincerely, Teresa from Alabama.
Parts Used:
-
Teresa from Phenix City, AL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
475 of 488 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Water leak from gate (diverter) valve shaft
This was a fairly simple repair. After disconnecting power to the dishwasher and removing the panel below the door, first had to remove a retainer C clip from the gate valve shaft. Then disconnected the linkage from the gate valve solenoid, removed two return springs and slid the gate valve contol arm off the shaft. Then removed the solenoid bracket that was fastened to the housing by 2 screws. This allowed access to the push on nut on the valve shaft. Removed the old push on nut which exposed the leaking seal. Removed the bad seal, then moistened and carefully slid on and seated the new drain valve shaft seal. Affixed new push on nut. Reinstalled the above mentioned parts that were removed. Problem solved - no more leak. Total cost $18.81 for factory GE parts plus $6.95 shipping. Thank you PartSelect.
Parts Used:
-
Joseph from Livermore, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
164 of 176 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Telescopic sprayer assembly in the Spray Arm Weld broke top element popped out
First off on this model, if one of the telescopic spray arm weld assembly comes out it is NOT repairable you have to replace the whole part.
The assembly on my model number was simple you do NOT have to PRY anything out...(I broke the base spray arm trying to shove a screw driver into the Spray arm weld.(You could try this but chances are the plastic will break and I recommend replacing both parts why not???.)
There are two bolts on the sump protector basket that has to be removed first. They are 1/4 inch.
Once that cover is free there is a bolt (also 1/4 inch) on the base spray arm it is easy to see but hard to get to I used a very thin open ended wrench
1/3 turn at a time till I could get the socket on it.
Next there is a rubber gromet like thingy that just pulls loose remove it also.
Next take the spanner wrench (I used one with a rubber belt) wrap around base spray arm and turn counter clockwise it just unscrews.
reassembly is simple but this is GE so I inspected the sump and found one medal impeller and one black screw at the bottom!!!!!
The impeller is threaded and just screws onto the shaft (look at the diagrams on this web site to see placement.)
Throw the screw away it does nothing except if left there jacks up the impeller I am guessing it fell out of some factory workers pocket.
If after you put all the parts back in and the washer does not drain check your reassembly if you don't line the parts up just right the unit will not drain.
Don't forget the rubber grommet (not sure what it does but it's easy to replace after all is assembled) also there is a metal washer that is inbetween the base spray arm and the spray arm weld put it back before you click those two parts together it protect the plastic from wearing it is a bearing!!
If you found this site you are doing really good This site had all the diagrams I was looking for I love you guys you so rock!!! I wish the diagrams were bigger but they were adequate. GE 's site was no help and I doubt I will ever buy another one from them.
Good luck just remember look at the parts diagrams before attempting the repair.
The assembly on my model number was simple you do NOT have to PRY anything out...(I broke the base spray arm trying to shove a screw driver into the Spray arm weld.(You could try this but chances are the plastic will break and I recommend replacing both parts why not???.)
There are two bolts on the sump protector basket that has to be removed first. They are 1/4 inch.
Once that cover is free there is a bolt (also 1/4 inch) on the base spray arm it is easy to see but hard to get to I used a very thin open ended wrench
1/3 turn at a time till I could get the socket on it.
Next there is a rubber gromet like thingy that just pulls loose remove it also.
Next take the spanner wrench (I used one with a rubber belt) wrap around base spray arm and turn counter clockwise it just unscrews.
reassembly is simple but this is GE so I inspected the sump and found one medal impeller and one black screw at the bottom!!!!!
The impeller is threaded and just screws onto the shaft (look at the diagrams on this web site to see placement.)
Throw the screw away it does nothing except if left there jacks up the impeller I am guessing it fell out of some factory workers pocket.
If after you put all the parts back in and the washer does not drain check your reassembly if you don't line the parts up just right the unit will not drain.
Don't forget the rubber grommet (not sure what it does but it's easy to replace after all is assembled) also there is a metal washer that is inbetween the base spray arm and the spray arm weld put it back before you click those two parts together it protect the plastic from wearing it is a bearing!!
If you found this site you are doing really good This site had all the diagrams I was looking for I love you guys you so rock!!! I wish the diagrams were bigger but they were adequate. GE 's site was no help and I doubt I will ever buy another one from them.
Good luck just remember look at the parts diagrams before attempting the repair.
Parts Used:
-
Larry from Fort Worth, TX
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Socket set, Wrench set
107 of 127 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
lower dishrack rusted
-
michael from Bloomington, IN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
89 of 99 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Detergent Dispenser Door Would Not Stay Closed
Completely remove the door from the dishwasher - It's easier to work on this way.
First the spring tension is NOT that critical - the spring just needs to not be mangled and really out of shape. Unless someone has taken a pair of pliers to it, it should be o-k
to use. I even mangled up the slot in the lever with a pair of pliers to try and jeery-rig it and it still works fine - you MUST at least have some resemblance of a groove here for the spring to
catch.
1) hook the hook on the inside of the lever where the slanted groove is on the cam. (see your great diagram)
Put all the pieces together at this point, shaft,spring and lever
2) There are two sets of grooves that correspond to matching notches in both the lever and the dispenser shaft. Make sure these match up to one another.
3) Using a pair of hemostats or tiny pliers pull the other side of the spring clockwise - gently - until you can hook it on the stop that is on the inside door. There will be some
tension of the spring around the shaft to cause the hook to engage to the slot in the plastic lever.
[*]This is where MOST of my problems were at:
4) Test the dispenser door to make sure when you close it, it springs back up. It WILL NOT hold when the door is off.
[*][I was trying to get the dispenser door to stay shut while the door was removed from the washer - this will NOT happen]
5) If number four is happening above, attach the door to the dishwasher.
Very Important: The door will only stay closed when the dishwasher is in the OFF position. Otherwise it will spring open when you try to shut it, because it is suppose to because at this time
in the cycle the detergent would be dispensing - hence the door being OPEN and the door not latching.
First the spring tension is NOT that critical - the spring just needs to not be mangled and really out of shape. Unless someone has taken a pair of pliers to it, it should be o-k
to use. I even mangled up the slot in the lever with a pair of pliers to try and jeery-rig it and it still works fine - you MUST at least have some resemblance of a groove here for the spring to
catch.
1) hook the hook on the inside of the lever where the slanted groove is on the cam. (see your great diagram)
Put all the pieces together at this point, shaft,spring and lever
2) There are two sets of grooves that correspond to matching notches in both the lever and the dispenser shaft. Make sure these match up to one another.
3) Using a pair of hemostats or tiny pliers pull the other side of the spring clockwise - gently - until you can hook it on the stop that is on the inside door. There will be some
tension of the spring around the shaft to cause the hook to engage to the slot in the plastic lever.
[*]This is where MOST of my problems were at:
4) Test the dispenser door to make sure when you close it, it springs back up. It WILL NOT hold when the door is off.
[*][I was trying to get the dispenser door to stay shut while the door was removed from the washer - this will NOT happen]
5) If number four is happening above, attach the door to the dishwasher.
Very Important: The door will only stay closed when the dishwasher is in the OFF position. Otherwise it will spring open when you try to shut it, because it is suppose to because at this time
in the cycle the detergent would be dispensing - hence the door being OPEN and the door not latching.
Parts Used:
-
Joe from Waxhaw, NC
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
82 of 117 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Basket was lost
Opened package from Parts Select.
Removed Silverware basket from package.
Opened Dishwasher.
Inserted Silverware Basket in rack.
Closed Dishwasher.
Discarded shipping package.
Told wife I fixed Dishwasher.
Sat down & had a beer.
Removed Silverware basket from package.
Opened Dishwasher.
Inserted Silverware Basket in rack.
Closed Dishwasher.
Discarded shipping package.
Told wife I fixed Dishwasher.
Sat down & had a beer.
Parts Used:
-
Joseph from Elmendorf, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
49 of 52 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Broken wheel
Siimply removed the rack and replaced the wheel assembly. Very easy
Parts Used:
-
Bennett from Burke, VA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers
74 of 139 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dishwasher water will not drain.
Very easy about 5 min replacement, Checked electrical conductivity to verify I had a bad solinoid, after I received the new part. I removed and replaced part by only removing and re-installed 2 screws and spring. Dishwasher worked like new.
Parts Used:
-
Hector from West Melbourne, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
47 of 59 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Rubber connector was leaking (slit in rubber)
First I removed the dishwasher from underneath the countertop and laid it on its back. I used a nut driver to remove the pump support wire and the two clamps holding the rubber connectors to the pump. It helped to hook the pump support wire in a hole in the left side of the frame and reconnect it to the pump to hold it up out of the way. I was able to remove the rubber connector by hand and unscrew it. To install the new rubber connector tightly, I slipped a piece of 2" PVC pipe (outside diameter is 2-3/8") inside the connector and tightened the clamp around the connector and PVC pipe. This allowed me to use the pipe to tighten the rubber connector. I reassembled the dishwasher pump and connections and put the dishwasher back into service
Parts Used:
-
David E from Colorado Springs, CO
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
38 of 45 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Wheel fell off dishwasher rack, landed on heating element and melted.
Simply discarded old wheel assembly and snapped new wheel assembly in place. Very simple.
Parts Used:
-
Stacey from Spring, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
64 of 126 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Lost A Wheel For Dishwasher
Repair easy. . Snap it in. . . . . . Impressed with the speedy delivery. Thanks
Parts Used:
-
LINDA from OCALA, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
64 of 126 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The wheels on our dishwasher were mis-shapen and broken
It was easy as pie. The new wheels came with the new axles already attached, and the whole wheel just snapped onto the lower rack. I ordered 6 and they arrived quickly and attached within minutes, and the dishwasher actually works better now that the rack is raised properly. Thank you!
Parts Used:
-
lori from MANHASSET, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
62 of 124 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
dishwasher leaking water when water went into drain
I read all the other repairs first to find out what I had to do. I then took front cover off the bottom of dishwasher. Identified the leak was coming from drain seal. I shut breaker off unpluged wires that were hooked to the drain valve sensor. removed the clip carfully as not to damage it. Removed srews that held down drain valve. removed the push on nut that holds drain seal in place. then removed old seal. I wiped down shaft to get ride of any corrosion and reinstalled new seal with deep socket and a srew driver. I installed new push on nut with another size socket. I fitted drain valve to shaft, used plyers to gently to pull shaft so I could put the c clip back onto grove on the shaft. reinstalled spring and plug wires back in turned breaker back on. I turned the dishwasher on and it did not leak. I was very happy that i did not have to take the dishwasher out. I did all repairs with everything still hooked up.
Parts Used:
-
john from east greenbush, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
28 of 31 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
plastic hinge arm link broke causing door to flop open
First I had to unscrew screws under the counter then pulled built in dishwasher out from under the counter, attached hing arm link to right side bracket on door, and the other end I attatched to a spring at the back of the unit. Thats it! and pushed the dishwasher back into place. All back to normal....by the way Im a 67 yr old great grandmother...
Parts Used:
-
Margaret from Meridian, MS
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
28 of 35 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!