GRML36 General Electric Range - Overview
Models starting with GRML36
Click on the best match to narrow your results.
- GRML3613R-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3613R-2 General Electric Range
- GRML3613R-3 General Electric Range
- GRML3613RM-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3613RM-2 General Electric Range
- GRML3613RM-3 General Electric Range
- GRML3640TM-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3640TM-2 General Electric Range
- GRML3640TT-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3640TT-2 General Electric Range
- GRML3640TW-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3640TW-2 General Electric Range
- GRML3640ZAD-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3640ZAD-2 General Electric Range
- GRML3640ZCC-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3640ZCC-2 General Electric Range
- GRML3640ZWH-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3640ZWH-2 General Electric Range
- GRML3640ZWH-3 General Electric Range
- GRML3640ZWW-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3640ZWW-2 General Electric Range
- GRML3640ZWW-3 General Electric Range
- GRML3643R-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3643R-2 General Electric Range
- GRML3643R-3 General Electric Range
- GRML3643RM-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3643RM-2 General Electric Range
- GRML3643RM-3 General Electric Range
- GRML3643S-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3643SM-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3653R-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3653R-2 General Electric Range
- GRML3653R-3 General Electric Range
- GRML3653RM-1 General Electric Range
- GRML3653RM-2 General Electric Range
- GRML3653RM-3 General Electric Range
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Range Burner Bowl 8
PartSelect #: PS244399
Manufacturer #: WB31T10015
This part is located beneath the element and catches any spills.
$20.95
In Stock
Range Burner Bowl 6
PartSelect #: PS244398
Manufacturer #: WB31T10014
This burner bowl is also known as a burner drip bowl or burner drip pan, and is designed for use with your cooktop or range. It is black in color and is approximately 6 inches in diameter. It can be f...
$16.95
In Stock
Range Door Handle End Cap
PartSelect #: PS256613
Manufacturer #: WB7X7183
This oven door handle end cap is used on both the left and right hand sides. Sold individually.
$33.95
In Stock
Light Bulb (40W)
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$19.10
In Stock
Range Surface Element
PartSelect #: PS243867
Manufacturer #: WB30M1
If you notice that your surface element will not heat properly, you may need to replace it. This surface element is 6 inches in diameter and 240V. It is a Y-frame surface burner element with five turn...
$48.95
In Stock
Range Handle End Cap Left Or Right Side
PartSelect #: PS229187
Manufacturer #: WB07X10034
This oven handle end cap connects to your oven door handle, and acts as the joint that connects it to the oven door. This part is made of black plastic and can be used as the left or right-side end ca...
$40.95
In Stock
Range Handle End Cap
PartSelect #: PS228368
Manufacturer #: WB07K10043
This white end cap is sold individually. One cap is required for each end of the oven door handle.
$49.95
In Stock
Oven Sensor
PartSelect #: PS236043
Manufacturer #: WB21X5301
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near t...
$37.95
In Stock
Range Door Handle End Cap
PartSelect #: PS256619
Manufacturer #: WB7X7189
This end cap can be used for either the left or right side.
$32.95
In Stock
Burner Bowl - 8 Inch
PartSelect #: PS244397
Manufacturer #: WB31T10013
This burner bowl or drip pan is found beneath the heating element on your cooktop or range. This part measures 8 inches in diameter, and should not be confused with the smaller pan, which measures 6 i...
$35.95
In Stock
Drip Bowl - 6 Inch
PartSelect #: PS244396
Manufacturer #: WB31T10012
This gray drip bowl is sold individually.
$36.95
In Stock
Range Door Handle
PartSelect #: PS231857
Manufacturer #: WB15K5076
This is the replacement door handle for your range. It is made of black plastic and measures approximately 22 inches by 1 inch. The door handle connects to the range door and allows you to open and cl...
$51.36
In Stock
Common Symptoms of models starting with GRML36
[Viewing 6 of 6]Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will Not Start
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Door won’t close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.
SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was ... Read more about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was ... Read more about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
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Parts Used:
-
James from Austin, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
222 of 261 people
found this instruction helpful.
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The end caps broke on my oven door handle.
1st I opened the oven door and removed the 2 screws that hold the outside and inside of the door together. With the door separated I removed the 2 screws that hold the end caps in place, then removed the old end caps. I put the new end caps on the oven door handle, aligned the holes for the end cap screws and reinstalled the screws,then
... Read more
reinstalled the oven door screws,closed the oven door and started cooking.
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Parts Used:
-
Harry from Thomasville, GA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
45 of 46 people
found this instruction helpful.
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terminal block melted
The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. U
... Read more
nscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient
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Parts Used:
-
jonathan from willow springs, IL
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
54 of 73 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Thank you for voting!