GMC9 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the four screws holding the screen and molded plastic cage inside the rear of the dishwasher to expose the check valve assembly. I then unscrewed the piston and nut assembly with my hand and replaced it with the new one. I found that the rubber cone shaped valve on the old piston and nut assembly was entirely disintegrated. This easy repair solved the problem.

1. Remove lower cover skirt.
2. Shut of water at undersink valve.
3. Unplug power cord or turn off circuit breaker.
4. Disconnect water supply line from fill valve.
5. Unplug the electrical connector from the valve.
6. Remove the 2 valve mounting bracket screws.
7. With loose valve in hand, rotate to gain access to allow release of outlet hose clamp for hose removal.
8. Remove brass fitting from old valve and install on new valve. Use teflon tape on the pipe threads only.

Install new valve by reversing the procedure.

Opened package from Parts Select.
Removed Silverware basket from package.
Opened Dishwasher.
Inserted Silverware Basket in rack.
Closed Dishwasher.
Discarded shipping package.
Told wife I fixed Dishwasher.
Sat down & had a beer.

unscrewed 2 screws found on upper part of dishwasher that connected hose to spray arm found inside of dishwasher to remove hose. gently squeezed rubber gasket to work it into the hole found at the top center of the dishwasher, made sure rubber disc shaped gasket was seated properly into spray arm, screw spray arm back into place. The job was much easier than I thought It took about 20 minutes it saved me from buying a new dishwasher, the delivery of the hose was faster than the speed of light it took about i business day, I order the hose on saturday it arrived tuesday evening. Thanks for your excellent service

Ordered the part, by using the diagram on the ge website identified the part and ordered it right them and when it came (delivered really fast) took it out of the bag and screwed it in the jet dry despenser and is working great.

Removed bottom tray from the dishwasher and in the back there is a screen with 5 hex head screws. Removed the screws and then lifted the screen out to expose the vavle. Unscrewed the valve by hand an installed the new one,hand tighten only. Reversed order for reassembly.

1. Remove access panel under door. 2.Shut off hot water.3. Shut off electric to washer.4. Disconnect water line from water inlet valve.5. Remove small outlet water line from valve. Replace valve & reconnect. OR !!! 1.Take solenoid valve & bracket off of original inlet valve 2. Pull out white plastic diaphragm cover. 3. Remove diaphragm & clean out water holes with a pin. 4. Reassemble valve. 5. Reinstall original water inlet valve & save $27.00

Found great information on this site describing the problem. My 9 year old GE Triton dishwasher has not been draining. I thought at first it was something stuck in float somewhere or perhaps a bad pump, but after searching around, I found this site and other stories similar to mine. Most of the reports suggested a worn check valve in the floor of the dishwasher tub, apparently a common issue with some GE models. I removed the strainer located at the back of the tub (4 screws removed w/ 1/4" nutdriver), then unscrewed the check valve to inspect it. Saw that the valve seat was very worn. Ordered the replacement part, received it 4 days later and installed in less than 10 minutes. The best part was I didn't have to remove the dishwasher or crawl underneath to complete the repair. Well worth the $20 for parts & shipping.

I removed the four screws of the filter frame exposing the check valve (piston and nut assembly) . I unscrewed the old check valve and replaced it with the new one.

Read about somebody else with the same problem and ordered the check valve. 4 screws off, twist out old valve, twist in new valve, 4 screws back in. Now dishes are see-yourself clean.

Opened the package and screwed in the new rinse aid fill cap. No problems. It fit and works just fine.

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.

Removed 4 screws, took off basket covering, put new part in one turn, then replaced covering. Plumber had come out, I watched what he did, he had to order part and come back. I asked how much he didn't know but said cheaper than buying a new dishwasher. When he left I started calling around about the little plastic part that I needed. Part was $15.50. They called and said it would be $110.00. Needless to say I called them out and ordered the part myself and put it in. Took me like 6 minutes and cost $21.69. I was so mad about this situation that I even got my service call money back that I had already paid.

Took four screws out, unscrewed the piston & nut assembly by hand installed the new one. Cycled the dishwasher & it worked perfectly.

Turn off power at breaker box.
Remove lower covers and 2 screws into counter top.
Verify sufficient length on water and electrical connection to allow sliding dishwasher out approx. 2/3. I disconnected the electrical at the j box on the dishwasher. If you must disconnect the water line, shut off supply, usually located under nearby sink, and provide a rag or sponge for small amounts of water left in supply line.
Carefully pull back the insulation to expose two screws on top where water line runs into the center.
Pull the top tray part way out and reach in to hold the spray arm while removing the screws. The spray arm will easily drop out.
Hold the new spray arm in place making sure the raised screw posts push into the holes, then reinstall the two screws. Done. Pull insulation back into place, retape if necessary. Reconnect electrical and water if necessary.
Slide unit back in, checking alinement. Rescrew to counter top and reinstall lower covers. Task complete. 15 mins if prepared. 30 mins if both elect. & water are disconnected and you are somewhat hesitant.