GDP695SBM5TS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Didn't actually do the compete repair but got close. Pulled out dishwasher, disconnected and checked continuity on the existing heating element (about 16 ohms) the new element was also about 16 ohms. This indicates they both were working fine and no need for replacement. Next step would have been to swap the elements would have been simple. Tried to replace main board as well, still not the issue so giving up and replacing the dishwasher. It wasn't the high temp cut off thermostat either incidentally and no error codes in maintenance mode. Check continuity of your existing element before ordering to save aggravation.

I first tested for 120volts to my dishwasher to verify it was getting power from my electrical panel. Then tested pins 2 and 5 on the control board to make sure there was 14 volts going to the user interface harness. After I verified that I knew it was the user interface that was bad. I watched a video I found on YouTube and followed it. This repair was fairly easy while watching the video and making sure that you use the correct pin out that comes in the box for your model. I’m not an appliance repair person and it took me about an hour start to finish. I’m going to attach the video I https://youtu.be/TI8cUjy5YOE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GN5t4VFgLCY

Open the washer, remove the bottom dish rack, then twist off the bottom water sprayer. Use a screwdriver to remove the mounting/ stabilizing screws so you can slide out the dishwasher. Close the dishwasher and slide it out. Underneath at the back there are two wires powering the drying element, carefully remove them. Use an adjustable wrench to remove the two plastic mounting nuts for the drying element. Open the washer and remove the old drying element, and insert the new element. Reassemble the dishwasher in the reverse order if disassembly.

1. Turn off breaker supplying power to dishwasher in electrical panel
2. Open dishwasher door
3. Unscrew the screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter.
4. Tip dishwasher forward. Identify the non-functioning door latch. It looks exactly like the replacement. Unclip the wire harness from the door latch.
5. On the inside of the dishwasher, there are 2 screws directly under the door latch. Unscrew them and carefully set aside.
6. Remove old door latch.
7. Set new door latch in place. Holding securely, replace screws removed in step 5. Toward the end they get a little tougher to screw in.
8. Plug wire harness into new door latch.
9. Re-align dishwasher and re-secure to counter in previous position.
10. Test latch to make sure it closes properly.
11. Turn on breaker in electrical panel.
The dishwasher should now function properly.

1. Pull out dishwasher (not all the way) 2. Open the door. 3. Remove the white rope holding the door hinge (both sides) 4. Remove the door by pulling up when the door is open about 4-8 inches. 5. Lay the door on the floor ( put something under the door so not to scratch the front. 6. Remove the small bolt at the bottom of the door (both sides). 7. Slide the hinge back, up, then out. 8. Where the hinges were are another set of bolts, remove those (both sides) 9. Grab the top part of the door (the part with the buttons) and slide apart. 10. Remove the styrofoam carefully. 11. Disconnect the wiring harness. 12. Remove the 6 screws holding the Despenser tray in place. 13. Put in new Despenser tray and put everything back together.

repair under warranty for Home Depot. Ordered new controller, new sump manifold, new piranh clamp kit, new diverter passive main assy, installation took 6 months. Could not finish as GE had changed the diverter to a new design with the same part number that the repairman had no knowledge of and there is no part available for the same configuration of the one that went bad, after I called GE tech line they were not aware of updates. Giving me the same numbers. The new design works if you order a new conduit main. As the old one in the dishwasher will not connect to the new Diverter. New deverter no. WD19X25278 and the new main conduit is the same as the old configuration no.WD12X21681 . The repair people and parts people are not yet aware of the design change and availability of parts, as most are out of stock and no updated pictures of the new design. Repair warranty washed their hands of this and Home Depot after 6 months gave me credit of my full price I bought this for 3 yrs ago. Repairing myself and sell.

Diagnosing was probably the most difficult, as I am an experienced electronic tech for 40 years. through research i found that the schematics and service paperwork was included with my dishwasher mine was located in the front left corner of the frame behind the kick panel. These service instructions were ok for guide but not really helpful in troubleshooting this fault. I found online the pinout output voltage from the main control board needed to be checked. however, this is not very easy to get a proper reading safely in such an awkward position. I ultimately scored the insulation back enough to get a set of clip leads and connect to my meter and obtain a reading. In my case there was voltage. I ordered the board and it arrived quick and installed. I cut and spliced together the wires I scored to make a reading but added an extra length of wire for service testing in the future.

Unplugged the dishwasher and turned off the water. In order to pull the dishwasher out I had to remove disconnect the waterline. Opened the dishwasher door to remove the screws attached under the counter holding the dishwasher in place. Once removed I pulled the dishwasher out of the under counter pocket far enough that I could access the rear connections to the heating element. Carefully disconnected the wires connected to the heating element and then loosened the large nuts securing the heating element. Once the nuts were removed I disengaged the element from the holders and removed it from the dishwasher. Installed the new element in place engaging it into the holders inside the dishwasher. Then moved back to the rear of the dishwasher installing the nuts that were removed earlier on the new element and reconnected the cables.

I ordered my new heating element prior to checking the continuity of the old one. I checked the continuity of the old one once it was removed and it was ok, not great but still acceptable so I knew the new element wasn't going to fix the issue, but installed it anyways. My issue was actually the float switch, so if you want to be sure of your issue, remove the current heating element from your dishwasher and check the continuity before ordering if you want to save some money.

I got lucky and found the diagnostic test instructions tucked inside the washer under the kick plate. From there I ran the tests on each component until I narrowed it down to the pump. The pump cost me less than local dealers. The install went well. Watched the online videos to make sure I was doing it right. Was actually very easy and saved hundreds over a service call.

Parts Select has excellent video instruction. they are way better than I could describe. the repair went smoothly. the heating element wasn't the issue. and it's may not be yours either. I found that the flood switch was the problem part number PS8690623. It's located under the filter screen in the bottom Yes that long grey plastic thing under the screen. It's held in by two 1/4 inch screws. Use a wet dry vacuum or towels to dry up the water in the sump. ABOVE ALL don't drop the screws. You'll be taking the pump apart if you do. Gently lift out the flood switch. There will be wires plugged into the base. With a flat screwdriver gently pop off the white plug from the green base. The plug only goes on one way reassemble in reverse order.

I listened to the DW cycles to be sure it was the drain pump (no water passes through discharge tube). We already had checked inside filter and our drain line. I watched video and saw it was a simple change. We unplugged and removed the pump and the new one fit exactly-it came with several clamps. Very simple & effective!

I ordered the part recommended.Replaced,still no power.The next part was going to be another $175.00.It was better to stop and get a refund than put $300.00 into a six year old.dishwasher.I should be getting a refund any day now.Parts select was very helpful in that regard.

the actual gasket tub seal was easy, 10 minutes. The trim tub gaskets were a pain because I had to uninstall the dishwasher (not plumbing or electrical) then pull it out from the cabinet, remove old trim and re-install. Re-leveled dishwasher, screwed into side of cabinets but it still leaks. Can't figure out where but after replacing all the trim and gaskets its very frustrating.

Replaced bad roller carrier with a new one.

Shut off power at breaker, remove two screws anchoring DW to counter top . Slide DW out far enough to access door latch, disconnect electrical wiring plug, remove two Phillips head screws, install new door latch, repeat installation in reverse order.