GCL - Overview
Models starting with GCL
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- GCL100-40G (3601K66M10) Bosch Laser Level (Gcl100-40g Laser Level)
- GCL100-80C (3601K66G10) Bosch Laser Level (Gcl100-80c Laser Level)
- GCL100-80CG (3601K66H10) Bosch Laser Level (Gcl100-80cg Laser Level)
- GCL2160 (3601K66F10) Bosch Chainsaw (Laser Level)
- GCL22KGRESV General Electric Refrigerator
- GCL22QGTASV General Electric Refrigerator
- GCL22QGTESV General Electric Refrigerator (Ge Refrigerator Gcl22qgtesv)
- GCL22QGTGSV General Electric Refrigerator (T Series)
- GCL25 (3601K66A10) Bosch Chainsaw (Laser Cross Level)
- GCL255 (3601K66L10) Bosch Chainsaw (Laser Level)
- GCLA070AX30 (P1249802F) Amana Furnace (Amana Furnace Model GCLA070AX30/P1249802F Parts)
- GCLA070CX30 (P1253202F) Amana Furnace (Amana Furnace Model GCLA070CX30/P1253202F Parts)
- GCLA090AX40 (P1249804F) Amana Furnace (Amana Furnace Model GCLA090AX40/P1249804F Parts)
- GCLA090CX40 (P1253204F) Amana Furnace (Amana Furnace Model GCLA090CX40/P1253204F Parts)
- GCLA115AX50 (P1249806F) Amana Furnace (Amana Furnace Model GCLA115AX50/P1249806F Parts)
- GCLA115CX50 (P1253206F) Amana Furnace (Amana Furnace Model GCLA115CX50/P1253206F Parts)
- GCLE700 Maytag Microwave Oven Combo (Electric)
- GCLE750 Maytag Microwave (Electric)
- GCLG600 Maytag Microwave Oven Combo (Gas)
- GCLG601 Maytag Microwave (Gas)
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Range Drip Bowl (8 In)
PartSelect #: PS11750107
Manufacturer #: WPW10196405
This manufacturer-certified drip bowl is also known as a drip pan, and it is designed for use with cooktops and ranges. It sits below 8-inch burner elements and catches drips and spills from the cookw...
$9.93
In Stock
Range Drip Bowl (6 In)
PartSelect #: PS11750108
Manufacturer #: WPW10196406
This drip bowl is used for electric cooktops and ranges, it is designed to sit under a 6-inch surface burner. It catches the drips and spills coming from the cookware on the surface burner. This drip ...
$10.49
In Stock
Refrigerator Light Bulb (40w)
PartSelect #: PS884734
Manufacturer #: 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$17.80
In Stock
Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter
PartSelect #: PS8746144
Manufacturer #: MWFP
This OEM ice and water filter fits side-by-side and bottom-freezer GE models. The most common reason you would need to change this part is if you have never updated your model and it is no longer filt...
$70.51
In Stock
Refrigerator Temperature Sensor
PartSelect #: PS304103
Manufacturer #: WR55X10025
This sensor (Temperature Sensor, Thermistor, Refrigerator Temperature Sensor) sends the temperature reading of the compartment to the control board. If you notice your refrigerator is too warm, too co...
$28.95
In Stock
Range Drip Bowl (6 In)
PartSelect #: PS2366565
Manufacturer #: W10196406RW
If your element will not heat, there could be an issue with your drip bowl. This chrome drip bowl is 8 inches in diameter, and fits most electric ranges. Before you replace the drip bowl, make sure th...
$14.65
In Stock
Refrigerator Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS1017716
Manufacturer #: WR50X10068
This defrost termination thermostat (Defrost Limiter Thermostat, High Limit Thermostat, Refrigerator Defrost Bi-Metal Thermostat) acts as a safety device to stop the evaporator coil from overheating, ...
$32.95
In Stock
WATER VALVE WITH GUARD
PartSelect #: PS16226572
Manufacturer #: WR57X33326
This water inlet valve (Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Assembly) supplies water to the ice maker and the water dispenser in your refrigerator. It is located at the back of the fridge, beneath the bott...
$79.33
In Stock
Refrigerator Module Shelf Insert (Clear)
PartSelect #: PS2323438
Manufacturer #: WR71X10761
The Module Shelf Insert is a complete assembly for the module shelf. This repair is rated as "Easy" by users. Simply remove the old shelf insert and snap the new one into place using the locking tabs....
$34.95
In Stock
Refrigerator Ice Maker
PartSelect #: PS1993870
Manufacturer #: WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic ...
$173.95
In Stock
Refrigerator Dispenser Door Assembly Or Flapper
PartSelect #: PS964304
Manufacturer #: WR17X11653
This “Dispenser Door Assembly” (Door Recess Assembly, Ice Door Assembly, Dispenser Door, Refrigerator Dispenser Ice Chute Door Kit, Dispenser Door Flap, Ice Chute Door, Flapper) keeps the room air fro...
$22.95
In Stock
Refrigerator Fan Grommet
PartSelect #: PS963756
Manufacturer #: WR02X12008
If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan...
$12.95
In Stock
Common Symptoms of models starting with GCL
[Viewing 30 of 30]Leaking
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Fridge too warm
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Not dispensing water
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Ice maker not making ice
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Freezer not defrosting
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Element will not heat
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Light not working
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Fridge too cold
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Frost buildup
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Will Not Start
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Door Sweating
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Too warm
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Door latch failure
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Freezer too cold
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Clicking sound
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Little to no heat when baking
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Touchpad does not respond
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Doesn’t stop running
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Too cold
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Won’t start
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Leaks water
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Oven not heating evenly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Refrigertor water dispenser not working BUT ice machine is working
The very first symptom here is important! The door water dispenser is not working but the ice macine is working. You may only have a frozen water tube in the door so do the following before diagnosing that your solenoid valve is bad: 1) the tube usually runs under the front of the refrigerator and usually has a quick disconnect. Undo t
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he connection and press the dispenser. If water comes out of the tube you have a frozen or blocked tube in the door. 2) Immediately adjust the temperature in the freezer and warm the freezer compartment as much as you can without destroying the freezer contents. Wait 24 hours. This will usually unfreeze the line. Do not waste your time with a hair dryer. NOW, if this doesn't work and you are convinced you need to order and replace the solenoid, follow these steps. Assemble your tools first. I needed a good ratchet set and a screwdriver. A shop towel is helpful for spilled water. A light is handy. Pull out the refreigerator to gain access to the rear of the unit. Unplug the power and close the water valve (older homes, you may need to actually shut the house water supply). Remove the screws which hold the cover over the lower half of the refrigerator. On the left you will see the solenoid. It's always good to see that your new part matches the one you feel needs replaced. They may not match perfectly due to changing design but they should be very similar. One screw holds this part in place and access is very simple. Now simply unplug the electrical connections. In my case, one blue "blade" type connection (powering the water) and one red "blade" type connection powering the ice maker. They are not the same size and this coupled with the coloring means you will not accidently switch them. pull the tubes clear of the solenoid. This is simple and needs no explantion. Grab your new solenoid and reattach both the electrical and water lines (two, remember, ice maker and drink dispencer). Replace the single screw. Re-attach the rear, lower refrigerator cover and go to the front of the unit to check the water. You can listen carefully and hear the power engage from the new part bringing you water. Clean up, replace the refrigerator back to its place and look really tired when your wife sees that you worked "so hard"! You probably saved at least $50-$80 from a service call which can now be used to take the family to dinner after your "exhausting" 15 minute workout of removing about 10 screws and wheeling the unit in and out of place. Writing this article took longer! My 4 year old worked harder holding the flash light!
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Parts Used:
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ralph from bristow, VA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I
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had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
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Parts Used:
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Gerald from San Clemente, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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The refrigerator made continous "whooing" sounds that increased and decreased in pitch. Sounded like a ghost. Would keep us up at night. Also noticed that the heater was not heating under the evaporator coils.
After checking the stories, the consensus of opinion was to change the mother board. I had a tremendous help from Tom Paone at quality@applianceeducator.com. He also told me to change the motherboard but to make sure that the coils were totally defrosted before starting up the refrigerator after changing the board.
Took off thr ... Read more ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.
Really simple task,
It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
Took off thr ... Read more ee nuts around the board at the back of the unit. Removed the input wires and you have to push in the plastic tabs holding the board in. Then just put the new board in place and push till the tabs click. Re-install the wires and put the cover back on.
Really simple task,
It is now a week since doing this and the unit is working perfectly. No soulds and good nights sleep. The ghost has moved on.
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Parts Used:
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John from Holly Springs, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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