DSKS333EC0WW General Electric Dryer - Overview
Sections of the DSKS333EC0WW
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Dryer Rear Drum Bearing Kit
PartSelect #: PS267529
Manufacturer #: WE25M40
This rear drum bearing kit includes a shaft, ground strap, bearing, seven screws, and installation instructions. The bearing plate comes with a slot in it for the ground strap. This part helps keep yo...
$74.43
In Stock

Dryer Bearing Slide (2 Pack)
PartSelect #: PS17137207
Manufacturer #: WE03X37319
This drum glide bearing is an authentic OEM replacement part that is compatible with dryers. It is white in color and made of highly durable plastic. The bearing allows the drum to rotate smoothly and...
$15.95
In Stock

Dryer Timer Knob
PartSelect #: PS266954
Manufacturer #: WE1X1263
This is a timer knob for your dryer. It is found on the control panel and allows you to turn your dryer on and adjust the settings. If the timer will not advance, or you notice the knob is damaged, yo...
$33.95
In Stock

Dryer Door Latch
PartSelect #: PS3502777
Manufacturer #: WE1M1011
This door latch is designed for your dryer, and is mounted to the dryer frame. The door latch holds the door of your dryer closed while the machine is operating. If your dryer door is not catching on ...
$19.95
In Stock

Dryer Drum Bearing Sleeve
PartSelect #: PS266777
Manufacturer #: WE1M462
Keep your GE dryer running smoothly with this genuine OEM rear drum bearing sleeve, designed specifically for GE dryer models. This part supports the back of the dryer drum and helps reduce friction a...
$28.95
In Stock

GRID ASM
PartSelect #: PS16762559
Manufacturer #: WE22X35337
This is a replacement lint filter slide for your dryer. It is approximately 14 inches long and 5 inches wide. It is made of white plastic and is sold individually. The slide mounts to your dryer and a...
$55.81
In Stock

Dryer Door Strike
PartSelect #: PS266893
Manufacturer #: WE1X1192
TThe door strike for your dryer is mounted on the dryer frame that the door shuts onto. It fits into the door catch on the door and keeps the door closed. If the door strike is damaged or missing, the...
$13.95
In Stock

Dryer Retainer O-Ring
PartSelect #: PS266776
Manufacturer #: WE1M461
This authentic OEM rear bearing O-ring is designed for use with GE dryers. It helps secure the drum rear bearing onto the drum shaft, playing a key role in maintaining smooth and quiet dryer operation...
$14.95
In Stock

PULLEY
PartSelect #: PS16542497
Manufacturer #: WE03X31620
Introducing the GE Idler Pulley Wheel, a crucial component for your dryer. This item is crafted from highly durable plastic, ensuring long lasting durability. The idler pulley wheel is responsible for...
$36.95
In Stock

Dryer Door Hinge
PartSelect #: PS8756812
Manufacturer #: WE1M1033
Screws NOT included.
$13.95
In Stock
Manuals & Care Guides for DSKS333EC0WW
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Installation Instructions
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Installation Instructions
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Manual
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Questions And Answers for DSKS333EC0WW
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Common Symptoms of the DSKS333EC0WW
[Viewing 5 of 5]Noisy
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Door won’t close
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Marks left on clothes
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Door Pops Open
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Drum Not Spinning
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
dryer door wont stay shut
pulled out door striker anddoor latch out with pliers and just pushed in new parts. works like new in under a min.
Parts Used:
-
robert from mount joy, PA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers
80 of 120 people
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Rubbing/Squealing Noise While Drying, especially during cold weather
This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
... Read more >I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.
... Read more >I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."
Yeah, right.
I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.
There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.
I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.
A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.
With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.
At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.
This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).
Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.
You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.
Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.
45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.
Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.
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Parts Used:
-
Gary from Spring Hill, TN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
58 of 74 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Squeaking Dryer - Rear Drum bearing gone bad
First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the in
... Read more
ternal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.
Read less
Parts Used:
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Jason from Cary, NC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
32 of 35 people
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