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Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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The lower front felt seal with adhesive, also known as a drum felt seal, is used in dyers and allows the drum to easily glide on the front panel. For this repair project, you will need the following t...
Introducing the GE Dryer Drum Bearing! This genuine replacement part is the ultimate solution for enhancing your dryer's performance. It is ideal for supporting the drum as it spins, offering stabilit...
Experience smooth operation with this genuine Dryer Felt Seal from GE. This product is designed to allow your dryer drum to glide effortlessly on the front panel, promising a quieter, more efficient p...
This hi-limit thermostat acts as a safety mechanism that keeps the dryer from overheating. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 260 degrees...
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Questions And Answers for DBL333EB1WW
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Hope
January 19, 2020
The other night my i noticed it was taking 2 cycles to dry my clothes and then the next load i noticed the dryer had never stopped so i went to check and timer was same as i set it and the dryer wasn't heating
For model number DBL333EB1WW
thank you for your question. Looking at your model information there are a few parts that you should take out and test to see which one is giving you the issue. The first parts to check in this case would be all of your thermostats and thermal fuses. You can test those parts with a multi meter and they should be reading 0 ohms to be working correctly. If those parts are fine, you should then go on to testing your heating element as well. You can also test that with a multi meter and it should be reading between 0 - 50 ohms. Something else you should also check would be your filter and ducts. Make sure there is absolutely no blockage that would restrict air flow in your appliance. If all of those are testing out, you may want to look into the Timer, because if the timer is not advancing that could be a cause. I hope that helps. You should get a reading between 2000 and 3000 OHMs or in the range of the suggested reading. Good luck with your repair.
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Kirk
December 13, 2022
is there a bearing on this model for the front of drum?
For model number DBL333EB1WW
Hi Kirk,
Thank you for your question. There is no front drum bearing listed, only a rear drum bearing. The part number listed under your model number for the rear drum bearing is PS267556. If you need help placing an order for it, customer service is open 7 days a week and anyone will be happy to assist you. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Juan
March 23, 2025
The dryer turns on but it does not heat up
For model number DBL333EB1WW
Hi Juan,
Thank you for your question. If the dryer is not heating, we recommend checking the heating element, the high limit thermostat, and the cycling thermostat for continuity with a multimeter on the Rx1 setting to see if they are operating normally. First, visually inspect the heating element for signs of damage or burning. If there are no signs of damage, test it with the multimeter. If you receive a reading of infinity, you will need to replace the heating element. When testing the thermostats, you should receive a reading of zero or infinity. If you receive any other readings, you will need to replace the thermostats. We hope this helps!
Hello Jose, thank you for reaching out. We have attached a video to help you out with the front door panel removal. We hope this information is useful!
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First I unplugged the dryer, then I removed the access panel on the back of the control panel. I removed the wires from the back of the switch...Here is where I messed up. I removed the switch prior to ordering the part, the bad part is the way I removed the part. When you get the new part in you will be able to see how it will be mounted
... Read more to the control panel. I had no idea, so I did what was necessary to remove it. Needless to say, I bent the hell out of the hole that the switch mounts in. In turn, the installation of the new switch did not go as easily as I would have liked. After straightening out some metal and drowning the thing in epoxy, the new switch is installed. I hooked the wires back up on the back of the switch, plug in the dryer, and dry some clothes. Standing victorious over the dryer with beer in hand, not only did I accomplish the mission but I learned my lesson... destructive removal = BAD!
Unplug power. Take the top off. Take front off, unplug the two wire connections. Undo belt from back access. Pull up on drum and remove. Unscrew 4 screws that hold on the element housing, remove. Reverse steps to put back together.
About a year ago I had to replace the front sliders. I had thought at the time that I should replace the belt and check the rear bearing, but I was in a hurry, and the wash was backing up, so I didn't do it. Oops. Within 6 months dryer started squeaking. Did I get around to pulling it out, and greasing rear bearing. Nope. Dbl oops.
... Read morer /> Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.
Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.
So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.
Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)
Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.
Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.
Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.
Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.
OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...
Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem
