DAFW3577KW0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

This was one of the simpliest repairs I have ever done taking less than 5 minutes to complete. On the inner door I removed the two screws that hold the plastic catch in place. I then removed the broken catch and put the new catch in place. Finally I replaced the two screws that hold the catch in place and it was done.

1. Unplug unit.
2. Unscrew 2 nuts holding top in place in rear of unit using phillips head screwdriver.
3.Slide top back and remove.
4. Open door of washer and unscrew 2 screws holding in door lock unit.
5.Pull out unit from the top and install new unit reconnecting the 3 wire connections.

removed 2 screws and removed top access cover. removed 2 screws and removed front access cover. removed 4 retaining pins (one with nammer and punch because it was stuck) connected lower ends of new shocks with plastic pins, extended each shock to slip fit and connected upper ends to wash tub mounts. Reinstalled panels. I wish I could say that it all went well from there but......when the shocks broke, apparently the hit the motor took was enough to cause an electronic failure of the speed cycle control chip. Now Im waiting for that part.

uplugged washer took front off washer 2 screws pryed up top pump was mounted with 2 screws and 2 wires took off found change in pump and the fins to pump worn off ordered part off line the wait for part was longer than the amount of time to fix problem and cost of part saved me about $25-35 if I was to buy local worth wait save money and fix problem washes like new spins and drains all water from tub.

Door lock takes a beating due to flimsy washer door which does not align well and subsequently gets slammed each time which causes lock to malfunction telling the washer that it is not locked. Due to safety the washer will not go into the spin mode. Remove top lid (2 screws) open washer door and loosed the 2 screws holding the lock assembly in place. Reach down into the washer and unsnap the 3 wire harnesses. Reverse to reinstall. Very easy.

Removed the screws holding the door. (One was stuck a little so used an air drill with Phillips head to get the torque needed but someone with a strong grip could have done it as it came out very easily). I removed most of the screws holding the front to back of door to exchange the hinge. There was a problem with the old hinge slopping around and not allowing the door to align properly when shutting it. The new hinge works better. See note*** below on doorframe. I pretty much was able to get the door back together and make it work. I then exchanged the door striker with no problem. It has a built in key so you cannot attach it incorrectly. The next thing was to just reattach the door to the machine and it worked right off the bat. ------------- *** Unfortunately, there were two screw mounts in the Outer Door Frame - Chrome Part Number: PS3495258 that were broken. This doorframe is listed as a $200+ chrome part whereas it is actually a plastic material that is extremely over priced for what it is. Like I mentioned two of the screw mounts had broken off so those screws are just "decoration" now. (These are screws that basically hold the back cover to the front cover). If this becomes a problem, I will simply modify what I have and make the screws fit before I spend $200+ on that part. (It looks like this could be drilled out and a long screw and nut run through to make it work. TELL THE WASHER OPERATOR… just be careful opening and closing the unit (don't slam the door but carefully close it) and it should work a lot longer. I might investigate the make up of a washer the next time I buy one … but the chrome vs. plastic is a hard one to spot. I hope this helps.

Using a screw driver I removed the spring loaded band from around the rubber boot inside the door. You only need to remove the band and then pull the boot from the bottom around to the side. You do not need to fully remove boot. Unscrew locking mechanism. Slide out to be able to see connections. Remove connections. Replace mechanism, reattaching connections into appropriate spots. Replace mechanism and rescrew in. Replace rubber boot by pulling gently out and working rubber V of boot under the metal slot. Once the boot is replaced, replace the metal band making sure the spring is at the bottom of the boot. Wahlah!!! Washer is working perfectly.

After reading the possiblilities of problem, I determined that the drain pump was not working; therefore I ordered a new one. When I opened the washer to replace the part, I found out that the pump was working but the filter was stuffed with pieces of rubber that came out from a rug I washed. Once all the stuff was removed, the washer worked just fine. PartSelect was very gracious to accept the returned with not questions asked!! Thanks partSelect.

My husband made the repair. First, he had to remove the dryer off of the top of the washer since it's a stacking unit. Disconnect water lines. Next he removed two screws from the back of the washer that allows you to remove the lid. Now unsnap a trim piece that is on the back surrounding the water connections and an exhaust port. Reach inside the washer, turn the exhaust port unlocking it and pushing out the back of the washer as far as you can to get it out of the way. Disconnect the electrical lines from the valve dispenser. Remove the two screws that fasten the valve dispenser to the washer. Install the new dispenser and reassemble.

I removed the broken door catch, which consisted of removing two screws, making it a snap to do, all you needed was a screw driver, and replaced it with the new one using the same screws, This took about 5 mins. to do and was very simple. Turning the machine into a working washer again. : )
After looking all over for the part,and not finding it I was thrilled when you carried the part. Even though the machine is old, it works great. Thank you for the selection of all the parts you carry and how you make it so easy for us to find what we need. , and having it in stock, which was mailed right away, so I could replace the catch and have the washer back in use in less than a week. Thank you

The striker is really easy to replace. Remove 2 #3 phillips screws, replace the striker part, and tighten the screws.

It got more complicated when too many striker tips broke off inside the latch assembly and prevented the tip of the new striker from going inside. To get at the latch assembly, I had to remove the big rubber gasket that connects the drum to the frame of the machine. I removed this at the drum end. Big mistake! It took two of us to get the gasket back onto the drum, and I had to take the frame end of the gasket off anyway. That end is a lot easier to put back on. Anyway, I finally got to the latch assembly, which attaches to the machine with two screws. It has 3 connectors and the housing is a grey plastic clamshell that latches in 3 places. It came apart and parts came out. Jamming the latches open and very gently prying the clamshell open may let you escape the small parts barrage. Once I got everything back together, it all worked.

Unfortunately, the story doesn't end there. This machine has broken 4 strikers. They break during the wash cycle. Taking a cue from a previous DIY description on this site, I took the hinge apart. It looks like there is a part missing, because there isn't anything that keeps the door aligned with the rest of the machine. The door drops down as low as it can go on the hinge pin and the plastic of the door frame rides directly on the arm of the hinge part. I've shimmed it up about 3/16" temporarily, and it seems to work, but I can't escape the idea that I shouldn't have to do this...

The door striker of the my front loading washing machine is plastic and breaks very easy. The small store I brought it from is now closed and I can't get the part and the last time I did order the part it took a least two weeks for it to arrive and my wash pile was huge. I ordred your part and in two days I had it! Much easier than the 65 dollars charge to have the repairman walk through the door to fix it and the long wait for it to arrive.

Disconnect water and electricity.
Shop-vac out the water in the internal drain hose.
Remove back cover, tip washer on side to gain access.
Un-clamp rubber drain hose,unscrew pump and remove.
Cleanout filter cup (yuk!) find coins and hairpins.
Attach drain hose to new pump and re-install with hose clamps from hardware store because spring clamps were impossible (arthritis in fingers).
Reconnect water and electricity.
Test for leaks and tighten clamps if necessary.

disconnected the power and water supply.

removed the back panel.

unscrewed the contol board that blocked access to the bottom of the shock absorber.

pulled the original pins out with pliers while pressing in the piece that prevents it from working its way out.

removed the shock absorber.

placed the new shock absorber in the bottom mount, put soap on the pin for lubrication and pushed it through the hole. Put the top of the shock absorber in its place and placed the other pin in.

replaced the control board and replaced the rear panel.

Codes did not point directly to the door lock, so that was a 50/50 between door lock and control board. With top of washer removed door lock is just a couple screws and 3 electrical connections.

Belt was worn and frayed. Belt replacement was tricky because new belt was so tight. Used vice grips to lightly hold belt on pulley while using screwdriver through spokes into tub back to ratchet/control pulley. Not too bad.

Works like new!