CDT835SMJ2DS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Didn't actually do the compete repair but got close. Pulled out dishwasher, disconnected and checked continuity on the existing heating element (about 16 ohms) the new element was also about 16 ohms. This indicates they both were working fine and no need for replacement. Next step would have been to swap the elements would have been simple. Tried to replace main board as well, still not the issue so giving up and replacing the dishwasher. It wasn't the high temp cut off thermostat either incidentally and no error codes in maintenance mode. Check continuity of your existing element before ordering to save aggravation.

Open the washer, remove the bottom dish rack, then twist off the bottom water sprayer. Use a screwdriver to remove the mounting/ stabilizing screws so you can slide out the dishwasher. Close the dishwasher and slide it out. Underneath at the back there are two wires powering the drying element, carefully remove them. Use an adjustable wrench to remove the two plastic mounting nuts for the drying element. Open the washer and remove the old drying element, and insert the new element. Reassemble the dishwasher in the reverse order if disassembly.

1. Turn off breaker supplying power to dishwasher in electrical panel
2. Open dishwasher door
3. Unscrew the screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter.
4. Tip dishwasher forward. Identify the non-functioning door latch. It looks exactly like the replacement. Unclip the wire harness from the door latch.
5. On the inside of the dishwasher, there are 2 screws directly under the door latch. Unscrew them and carefully set aside.
6. Remove old door latch.
7. Set new door latch in place. Holding securely, replace screws removed in step 5. Toward the end they get a little tougher to screw in.
8. Plug wire harness into new door latch.
9. Re-align dishwasher and re-secure to counter in previous position.
10. Test latch to make sure it closes properly.
11. Turn on breaker in electrical panel.
The dishwasher should now function properly.

Unplugged the dishwasher and turned off the water. In order to pull the dishwasher out I had to remove disconnect the waterline. Opened the dishwasher door to remove the screws attached under the counter holding the dishwasher in place. Once removed I pulled the dishwasher out of the under counter pocket far enough that I could access the rear connections to the heating element. Carefully disconnected the wires connected to the heating element and then loosened the large nuts securing the heating element. Once the nuts were removed I disengaged the element from the holders and removed it from the dishwasher. Installed the new element in place engaging it into the holders inside the dishwasher. Then moved back to the rear of the dishwasher installing the nuts that were removed earlier on the new element and reconnected the cables.

I ordered my new heating element prior to checking the continuity of the old one. I checked the continuity of the old one once it was removed and it was ok, not great but still acceptable so I knew the new element wasn't going to fix the issue, but installed it anyways. My issue was actually the float switch, so if you want to be sure of your issue, remove the current heating element from your dishwasher and check the continuity before ordering if you want to save some money.

Parts Select has excellent video instruction. they are way better than I could describe. the repair went smoothly. the heating element wasn't the issue. and it's may not be yours either. I found that the flood switch was the problem part number PS8690623. It's located under the filter screen in the bottom Yes that long grey plastic thing under the screen. It's held in by two 1/4 inch screws. Use a wet dry vacuum or towels to dry up the water in the sump. ABOVE ALL don't drop the screws. You'll be taking the pump apart if you do. Gently lift out the flood switch. There will be wires plugged into the base. With a flat screwdriver gently pop off the white plug from the green base. The plug only goes on one way reassemble in reverse order.

I got lucky and found the diagnostic test instructions tucked inside the washer under the kick plate. From there I ran the tests on each component until I narrowed it down to the pump. The pump cost me less than local dealers. The install went well. Watched the online videos to make sure I was doing it right. Was actually very easy and saved hundreds over a service call.

Replaced bad roller carrier with a new one.

Shut off power at breaker, remove two screws anchoring DW to counter top . Slide DW out far enough to access door latch, disconnect electrical wiring plug, remove two Phillips head screws, install new door latch, repeat installation in reverse order.

We bought this GE dishwasher new. After 9 months, we started noticing the dishes were not cleaning well. Eventually, the machine just filled up with water and drained. The washing arms didn't work. I replaced fill valve, but that didn't solve it. A GE Tech ran a diagnostic and informed us the pump motor was bad. It was off warranty and repairs would be $300. However, he noted it was easy to do on my own. Two pipe clamps. The part from PartsSelect was 40% less than ordering from GE and was a GE part. Replacement took half an hour and that includes getting it wrong once (one connection leaked due to a bad job attaching the pipe clamp). Works like a champ now.

Replaced transition piece, gasket, and vent cover. The root cause problem is that the factory installed gasket was too thick and would not allow sufficient thread engagement. The replacement gasket was about 25% thinner and worked perfectly.

The dishwasher was not heating anymore. I suspected it was the float/flood switch, so I got that ordered. I went ahead and ordered the element also and I'm glad I did! Even though the element was good, when I tested it I loosened the nut holding the element in. When I retightened it there was NO WAY for me to get it watertight again and it kept dripping out the bottom. Mine was made in 2019, and the gaskets on the element that came with it were a terrible design - the metal flange on the element was about as big as the hole in the middle of the gasket so water just leaked between the gasket "donut" hole and the element with no way to seal. The element I bought for this repair just in case had a totally redesigned gasket that sealed right up and didn't have the same design issue. So beware, if you are fiddling with the element in your process, be sure the gasket will reseal - or just have an extra new element in case it is the old (bad) design.

The flood switch was easy to find (with dishwasher on its back) in a white housing under the black circular sump.

Getting the actual switch out of that housing took some doing. I ended up using 4 small kebab sticks - toothpicks might work better- all 4 tabs have to be pulled out at the same time.

So I ended up changing out both the element (which was good but started leaking) and the float switch.

IMPORTANT!!! Before you put the dishwasher back in, you probably need to reset the thermal cutoff (TCO) on the back of the dishwasher. Follow the wire up from the element and it is the first thing it goes to. There should be a small (3mm) black button that has popped out. Press that back in. With your repair (float switch or element) it should start heating again - at least mine did.

Replaced old gasket with new one. More difficult than expected, because new gasket was much stiffer than old one. Also, the yellow centering spot on gasket (to line up with top latch) was nearly impossible to see. Unfortunately, this did not solve the problem for me, so money was wasted. Bought new dishwasher.

The installation is fairly straightforward, basically one plug in electrical connection and two plumbing connections. The smaller of the two plumbing connections can be tricky because of the hose clamp... The original clamps are one time use crimp style. The replacements are standard hose clamps, which means the section where the tension mechanism is, is a bit wider than the clamp itself... This can cause the rubber collar on the dishwasher to slide off/separate from the pump part itself when tightening the hose clamp. If you are careful and align things just right, it will work like a charm. The best advice I have is to take your time and make sure the connections are snug without being too tight, otherwise it could leak and/or something else could break.

Repair went fine, getting the right pump was the problem. I started with my local appliance parts house, they ordered part came in 3 days. Upon picking it up I noticed that the pump was shaped slightly different and the electrical hook up was totally different. Asking the parts guy what happened he said they must have sent the wrong pump. Returned it for credit and ordered it again. Four days later the same exact thing occurs. Parts guy credits my account and says better go directly to GE. Wait 10 days for GE, for this part and once again same odd looking pump with wrong electrical plug. My son who is a welder by trade asks me if there is a packet of parts in carton and yes there is. He says that perhaps there is a converter for the electrical. That was the solution no one told us that pump was universal and needed the adapter. Not even the 2 different tecks at first house. Perhaps that should be stated in the part would have saved us tons of time. Thanks D

I have them to the plumber who was reinstalling a poorly installed dishwasher. Parts worked perfectly