91147819200 Kenmore Microwave Oven Combo - Instructions

Turned out the issue was easily solved by replacing a single, inexpensive fuse.

First off, UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE.

The fuse is located under the plastic grill at the top of the microwave. It's held on by two screws. Once you've removed the screws and taken off the plastic grill, you go to the right side of the microwave and remove another screw that holds a small metal grill in place. Removing the small metal grill is probably the toughest part of this repair. You kind of have to rock it back and forth a bit to get it to release. Once that's off, you can get to the fuse. I removed the burnt out one with a pair of needle nose pliers. I also put a small piece of cardboard under the fuse when I did this so I didn't accidentally drop it into the innards of the microwave. I did the same thing when I replaced the new fuse. I then plugged the appliance back in and made sure it worked. Once that was confirmed, I replaced both grills.

First, disconnect the power from the electrical box, not just turn off that oven. specially if you have a double oven. Just turn one off is not enough.

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out slowly about 2 inches to expose the connectors, and then disconnected the two wires by holding the wire (female) connector by one plier and pull the element (male) connector out with another plier. Then, insert the new element connectors, and push the wire back into wall then fasten the element with 2 screws.

I had to remove the oven from the wall because the sensor plug connction is behind the unit. Two screws hold the sensor inside the oven and then I disconnected the lead and pulled the sensor out from the front. I installed the new sensor, tightened the two screws holding it in and connected the lead. Then reinstalled the oven into the wall. Overall, a very easy repair once you get the oven out.

Replaced High Voltage Diode. Very carfully due to the extream danger of a electrical shock.

The old fuse is perfectly good. The new ones arrived within a day.

1. Opened door to remove glass dish and plastic rotating wheel.
2. Turned breaker "off" to appliance at main electrical panel.
3. Removed two "star" screws located on side of front control panel.
4. Removed four screws (two top and bottom) from front bezel around the wall mount microwave unit.
5. With bezel removed; removed four screws (two top and bottom) from the frame seecuring the microwave above the conventional oven directly below.
6. Using an inverted laundry basket; slide the microwave unit out approx. 14-16 inches and balance the extended weight on the inverted laundry basket. I opened the oven door and placed the laundry basket on it.....was a good fit!
7. With the side sheet metal now exposed; remove four hex nut screws (black) from unit.
8. Also, swing front control panel open; notice two sheetmetal tabs securing side panel. bend each up to help release side panel.
9. NOTE: The sheet metal enclosure is a shield for the microwave unit. It interlocks around the side cover preventing accidental removal.
10. By removing the four hex screws, you will notice two philips screws toward the rear of the unit. Remove both of these screws and the side panel should come out exposing the magnatron.
11. Uplug the magnatron and light. The light is in a white plastic cover and the magnetron is the main device in the unit. There was a schematic in my unit that helps illustrate each of the locations.
12. NOTE: There are capacitors toward the lower rear of the unit that will remain charged although power is off. Safely dscharge these capacitors or don't service this unit on your own.
13. Remove the magnatron by removing the four philips screws attaching it to the side enclosure.
14. Remove the plastic cover encasing the light by removing three philips screws.
15. NOTE: The replacement magnetron does not include the thermal sensor secured to its case. You must remove this from the old unit or buy a new one. There are two small philips screws securing this in place.
16. Reverse order to install new units.
17. NOTE: there is a gasket on the magnetron (around the hole where the rotating head projects into the cooking chamber. Ensure gasket is properly installed to prevent microwave leakage.
18. Once everything is reinstalled; place glass of water in unit to test. Set controls properly and turn on. Water should be hot per setting.

1. turned off electricity -- unplugged the unit 2. removed 3 screws on top of top vent, removed vent screen then I located the little white cylindrical fuse and popped it out with a table knife. Then I popped in the new fuse. Replaced the vent screen and screws -- plugged in the appliance and it is working again.

removed two phillips screws. Unplugged electrical connections replaced unit from PartSelect. They sent holder cover and new bulb (surprise). Great store with great directions.

Removed the glass tray, pulled out the old guide roller and installed the new one. returned tray. could not have been much easier. part arrived fast and was cheaper than other web sites.

Removed the oven door for easy acces to oven. Unscrewed (philips screwdriver) the screw holding temp sensor in place. Gently pulled the wiring until quick connector was located. Pushed down on locking level on quick connect while holding other end of wiring (so wiring would not fall back behind oven). Connected the new sensor and screwed back in place. Reinstalled oven door. Tested temperature settings by turning on oven and comparing with a separate oven thermometer.

After turning the breaker off, using a 1/4 inch nut driver I removed all the clamp screws (5) holding the heating element in place. I then unplugged the element wire spades from the rear of oven and removed the old element. Installing the new one was simply going in reverse order. After plugging the new one in, I did however, use plyers to squeeze the connectors and make the connections tighter. It took a little more back work than I thought because I was leaning over most the time. All in all, I saved a hundred dollar bill in doing this 30 min job myself.

Spring clips installed on seal just pull off door. New clips get inserted in mounting holes and are pushed in to seat in door. Seal ends slide into door holes.

Replaced old sensor with new one by removing nut screw and carefully pulling sensor cable out of oven back until plastic terminal connection is exposed. Sensor connection has a locking tab that must be pushed in to release sensor connector. Do not allow oven wire to pull back into back of oven until new sensor is connected. Reinstall nut screw and tight to hold new sensor in place. Verify proper oven operation.

Followed instructions and removed door. Loosened screws/bolts. Pulled the door apart. Removed the bracket that would hold the glass. Removed the broken glass and inserted the replacement glass. Re-assembled the door and reinstalled the door. Took all of 20 mins.

Disconnect the Power to the Oven

1. Took out the baking racks
2. With a nut driver, removed the two machine screws holding the baking element.
3. Pulled the baking element out 3-4 inches and using pliers, removed the wires from the back of the broken element.
4. Reattached the wires to the new element and reversed process.

Most important: Unplug or turn off the breaker before beginning! (I briefly saw sparks as I removed the old switch.) Look at the replacement switch. The springs on the sides hold the switch in, which means you have to press in these springs to get the old switch out. I slipped a small screwdriver in on the side while I pulled with a small pair of pliers. It's tricky, but it will come out. Once you have the switch out, just unplug the wire in the back, making sure it doesn't fall back in the hole before you get the new switch on. Then, just push the new switch into the hole in the stove and you're done.