75319 (AWBCSER) LG Refrigerator - Instructions

This refrigerator/freezer problem had been escalating for almost a year, requiring me to frequently knock the ice buildup free with a rubber mallet. I finally decided to try to identify the problem by removing the freezer door and all of the shelves and shelf tracks (easily removed with only a phillips screwdriver). Then I removed the back plastic panel to expose the cooling coils, which were partially encased in ice. I deduced that the evaporator fan motor was failing, which blows air over the freezer cooling coils and forces the cool air up into the upper refrigerator section (which was not staying cold). I then found and ordered the fan motor from part select. Their search function and exploded drawing schematics made it easy to identify the part and part number. It seems the original part number had been superceded with a new number, which I ordered. Once it arrived after about a week, I transferred the fan blades from the old motor to the new fan motor, and after completely drying out the freezer compartment, I reinstalled all of the parts and plugged in the unit and waited. By the next day, the refrigerator was operating at peak efficiency, and the ice buildup in the freezer has not returned. I was very close to scrapping the entire refrigerator as junk, but with a little diagnostic effort and about $110 for the new motor, I have a fully functioning refrigerator again. Thanks to Part Select for a great experience.

removed the upper freezer door to access screws to remove lower door.
laid bottom door on its side, removed bad bushing, put new bushing in, put bottom door back on refridge, put upper door back on fridge. Door worked easy as when new. good closure of door and story..Happy customer, and wife even happier.....thank you....

removed 3 fasteners for top door and placed freezer door aside, then removed 3 more fasteners on bottom refrigerator door and place that aside. replaced bushing on lower door bracket and reversed the above procedure to reinstall doors.

This is bottom drawer type frige. Icemaker is inside (not in the door) and hard to reach. I first tested the solenoids by disconnecting them and using a test cord, energized them independent of the frige wiring. They worked ok. Note: this frige has (2) solenoids going to the icemaker. And it has (3) solenoids serving the water dispenser. The icemaker solenoids are wired in parallel. I removed the icemaker by removing (1) screw from the bottom and loosening (2) on the top. Then removed icemaker as a complete unit disconnecting the wire connector at the same time. On the bench I tested the icemaker to verify it was defective. The wire harness has a 10 amp fuse in the black wire (hot wire). `The fuse was blown. This was sufficient to indicate the icemaker is shot. I did however, do some other tests. Cold resistance of the mold heater was 72 ohms. The timer motor was 4000 ohms. These measurements should be ok. I then activated the icemaker with a test cord, bypassing the blown fuse. The unit cycled one complete rotation then stopped. The mold heater worked. I tested the amp draw on the mold heater and it was only .1 amps. I should be a about .8 amps. I then cycled it again and then the timer motor began to sizzle and smell. Then it smoked and stopped mid-rotation. I then purchased a new icemaker. I believe the mold heater was going bad over time as this unit made ice but very slowly. This put extra strain on the motor as the mold was not releasing quickly. This damaged the motor causing it to fail.

Took off the door stop and put on the new one. Installed the new gasket and had another beer!!

Removed old rails and tapped new rails in place. The big problem was finding how to fix the drawer. After searching many online websites, It was my good fortune to find Partselect and a one of their service representatives who
knew how to fix my drawer
and they had the part.

Went on line to see how difficult it would be to replace the valve. Through Google there was a video which showed in exact detail how to remove and replace the valve. Then went on line to find the replacement part which was readily available. The only problem was that the connection on the valve where the fill water enters the valve was larger than the old valve. To fix that I went to a local Ace hardware store and found a nut that would fit the valve connection. Also don't forget to use a compression ring to keep the fill line secured when replaced.
Over all it was very simple and was in my "pay grade"

IMPORTANT: REPAIR EASIER WITH ASSISTANT! Pull frig from kitchen cabinets & unplug. Remove food from freezer & frig doors. Have assistant hold freezer door closed against freezer. Remove hinge cap from top of freezer along with hardware using socket wrench. Carefully lift freezer door from hardware that joins the bottom of the freezer door to the top of the frig door. Rest freezer door upright off to the side. Have assistant open frig door & SUPPORT BOTTOM. Remove hardware from top of frig using crescent wrench & screwdriver. Carefully lift frig door off joint & lay on side to gain access to hardware on bottom. Remove hardware using a screwdriver & replace worn nylon bushing. Reverse disassembly steps. Remove frig & freezer door shelves & clean inside. Clean outside frig, especially the back vents. Clean the floor where frig lives & push back into place. Enjoy clean SELF-CLOSING, NON-GRINDING frig door!

In plug refrigerator. Pry old switch out with flat blade screwdriver. Disconnect wiring from old switch and plug into new switch. Push back into refrigerator. Plug unit back in. Lights and fan should now work. Check for cold air coming out in freezer.

Pulled the fridge out of its space. Removed a metal shield which covered the bottom 12" of the fridge with a Philips head screw driver. The water valve is on your right. turned off the water to the supply line. Removed the supply line using an adjustable wrench. Removed the water line gong from the pump into the fridge. It is held on with a "C" clip which can be pulled off with needle-nose pliers. Removed the old pump, held with one Philips head screw. Then installed the new pump, reconnected the lines, replaced the metal shield and turned the water back on. Vacuumed the fridge and its space before cleaning up. The ice-maker now works perfectly.

I screwed the old one out and replaced it with the new one. A no-brainer. The thing that was so amazing was that I ordered the filter on the intrnet and it arrived the very next day!!! I was very surprised and pleased with the very quick shipping!!!

I removed the cover from the rear of the unit, with a screwdriver. Then with a adjustable wrench unscrewed the top nut of the water valve.I then removed the screw holding the valve to the wall of the fridge. Turned the valve upside down and removed the line going up to the ice maker. No tools needed here as it is a quick connect fitting.Use reverse order to install valve.I am 65 years old and if I can do this anyone can. Good luck from TX.

easy, a screw driver repaired in a mintue

Uncoupled the old connector, replaced with new connector and attached supply line. Repair easy with right part, prior to ordering the right part I had tried a compression fitting and it still leaked. U-tube and others demonstrating repair assured me I was on the right path.

I called LG and followed the instructions given over the phone. The instructions couldn't have been simpler. Disconnect the appliance for several hours and then connect again. I disconnected the appliance overnight, cleaned out the freezer, and reconnected it. Problem solved. Did not need to call a repairman and did not use the clips.