71082 LG Refrigerator - Instructions

Video makes it look easy. Kenmore refrigerator does not have "groove" along the right hand side of switch that allows for pushing down on release. Used a thin screwdriver to get under to push while holding switch edge with pliers. Kept slipping. Tape sides to avoid scratching inside of refrigerator.

1. Shut off water to refrigerator. 2. Removed bottom sheet metal cover (6 screws). 3. Removed leaking water inlet valve assembly from refrigerator (1 screw). 4. Remove water inlet tube (loosen nut) and tube back to refrigerator (pull from water valve after remove cotter pin washer). 5. Detach two electrical wire harnesses. 6. Install new water inlet valve assembly to refrigerator (1 screw). 7. Replace both water tubes to water inlet assembly. 8. Re-attach both wiring harnesses. 9. Turn water to refrigerator on. 10. Check for leaks. 11. Re-attach bottom sheet cover (6 screws).

The Refrigerator now runs very quite.
After watching several videos I started on mine and found that it was a bit different than any in the videos. However all but the back panel was shown and that was helpful.
The back panel was a bit difficult but a hair dryer seemed to help .
All in all it was a good choice to do it myself as it was done quicker than waiting on a repair man.

Shut off water supply. Disconnect main supply line. Remove rear lower panel on back of refrigerator. Remove all tubing clamps on back. Disconnect leaking tubing from water supply valve. Remove water filter and unscrew/remove water filter housing. Replace tubing - connect to water filter housing then to water supply valve. Reconnect filter housing and filter. Reinstall lower panel, then main water supply line, then all tubing clamps. Turn water back on and check for leaks after discarding several glasses of water to fill filter. Job complete!

Turned of water to refrigerator and unplugged refrigerator. Removed the water line from refrigerator. Removed back panel. Removed mounting screw from the water valve, Unhooked wire harness from valve and removed the water line on back of valve. Reconnected wiring harness to new valve, reconnected water line on back of valve. Replaced the back panel to refrigerator and put the water line back on the new valve. Turned on water valve and checked for leaks. It's now dispensing water and ice.

An easy way to get a refrigerator out from the wall is to use a tow strap or 1/2 to 3/4 in. rope. Throw a loop behind refer while keeping both ends in your hands. Let it settle down to the lower half of unit and pull using both hands. Comes right out.
Remove lower panel. Unscrew water valve from cabinet. Remove all tube holders Lay some rags down to catch a little water drainage.
Turn off water supply valve at wall. Unplug Power. Remove filter and filter holder. (one screw).
remove tube from valve by removing plastic C clip. Push plastic ring towards the valve and pull out tube at same time.
With the tube free, remove filter, then mount screw to remove the inside filter holder. When it is out, pull the tube doing the same process as the lower end. Pull tube out and replace with new one putting everything back in reverse order.
Before placing tube holders back on, turn on water to check for leaks.
After turning water back on and plugging in power, push refer back into place.
While I was there, I also replaced the hose from the wall to the refer.

The heavy work is moving the fridge, then take off the lower plans. Use a bowel or cup for screws and the water line connector spacers so you don't loos them.
undo connections holding water line, including the bottom brakes for the solenoid. Reuse the spring around the lower waterline to prevent external wear on the line.

NOTE: remove the waterline connector spacers and save!
NOTE: you must compress (not pull) the connect to then pull the waterline out of the connectors.
NOTE: You must also remove the water filter and housing inside the fridge but this is easy.
MOTE: Test the line for leaks by turning on the water and then using the door water. The filter will need to refill so it may take a minute before water comes up. This line only have pressure when the door water is used or the ice maker needs to make ice.


After replacing the line, test the line for leaks by using the door water so the solenoid fills the lines

After watching a few iTunes videos I was able to order the light switch from part select and within a week I had the new switch. I had a little trouble getting the switch out. I used a flat screw driver and taped around the edge to keep from damaging the wall inside. I found the clip on the right side and had to use some force to get it popped out, you may need to use pliers to disconnect the switch.

Have had the Sears repairman come to the house to replace this part in 5 minutes for +$100.. twice. When my dad's stopped working, ordered the part and replaced it myself for the cost of the part and shipping.
Use a screw driver to pry the right side of the switch and pull out. Best to watch a youtube video first. Takes about 5 minutes.

I followed the directions! It was so easy that I bought another switch for my sister's fridge (same as mine). Her light was out too!

Switched the refrigerator circuit breaker to off. Put tape around the switch to prevent scratches. Wedged the putty knife into the right side of the switch and pried up.the switch and connector popped out. Removed the connector from the old switch and connected it to the socket in the new switch. Stuffed the new switch and connector back into its home. Switched on the circuit breaker. Now we have light in the refrigerator with every opening!

The refrigerator had the above code and when I check on YouTube, it explained that the defrosting was not working properly. It was taking more than 80 minutes to defrost. I ordered the Temperature Sensor first and it was not the issue. I also ordered the Defrost Temperature fuse or the Thermistor. I had to defrost the refrigerator first by using a portable heater to get it done quickly. (See Youtube on how to get to the Defrosting Unit inside the freezer). The Thermistor was the wrong part. I called the Partselect and explained that the part with the heating element is one piece. (Heating Coil Thermistor or Heating Coil). By replacing that piece solved the Error Code issue. I listened to Youtube for the instructions on how to replace the Heater Coil. So if you see the Error Code dH F, you need to replace the Heating Coil, which comes in
one piece and sits on the bottom of the Defrost Element.

Unplugged the refrigerator, Taped around the edges of switch as I had read to prevent possible scratches, used very thin flathead screwdriver to pry out old switch, unplugged old switch, plugged in new switch, put it back in opening, plugged fridge back in, and I had beautiful light! Hardest part was unplugging the refrigerator!

0) Look on the internet for a DIY/or pro-shop Video
1) Pull the refrigerator away from the wall, unplug the power cable
2) Shut off the water at the wall valve
3) Disconnect the water line at the inlet valve on the refrigerator (lower corner, right side), this is a threaded pipe fitting requiring a small open end wrench
4) Remove the lower rear panel
5) Remove the water inlet and distribution valve assembly, there is one sheet-metal screw holding the assembly to the back edge of the refrigerator.
6) Carefully pull the assembly out of the back of the refrigerator, leave the distribution water lines attached, note the orientation
7) Disconnect the electrical connectors, note the orientation/types
8) Disconnect the water line from the inlet valve, remove the retaining clip, then pull out the line. Note - a small metal star shaped tube fitting may come out with the valve, this is fine and will not be used again.
9) Remove the inlet valve from the assembly (there are two small sheet-metal screws that are very tight, the correct/precise size, good quality Philips head screw driver is necessary or use a small set of vice-grips to grab the head of the screw)
10) Attach the new valve to the valve assembly, connect the electrical connectors, note - at the plastic refrigerator water line that connects to the inlet valve, trim/cut a small section off the end of the water line before connecting it to the valve. This will provide a fresh interface for the connection. Push the line in firmly and then install the retaining clip.
11) Perform a quick functional check before putting everything back together - Attach the water line from the wall, turn on the water, attach the electrical connectors, plug in the refrigerator power cable and test for operation and leaks.
12) Assuming no leaks/operational issues, unplug the refrigerator power cable again, turn off the water at the wall, disconnect the water line at the inlet valve and reinstall the valve assembly and rear panel. Reconnect the water line and plug in the power cable and you should be good to go.!

The old switch was a little hard to get out....took me a couple tries. I couldn’t move the frig out to unplug it, so just shut the power off in the kitchen. But, I was happy that’s what the problem was and so happy to have the light back on......it was probably three years it didn’t work!