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Sample Model Number Tags
Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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Model has been saved to My Models.
The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine wheth...
60% OFF
$16.69
$41.66
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If...
$23.95
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
This is a part for your range. This switch controls the stovetop surface burner. If you notice that your stove top is not turning on or is not adjusting to the corresponding desired heat, it is mostly...
$56.38
In Stock
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The temperature sensor detects the temperature within the oven cavity. If there is a limited amount of heat, it is not heating evenly, or the oven will not start, this might indicate that your tempera...
$56.38
In Stock
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This tempered glass is supplied by the original manufacturer and measures 20 inches by 13 inches. It is an inner door glass, designed for use in ranges/ovens and has several purposes which include pro...
$78.52
In Stock
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This rear drawer glide, also known as a storage drawer glide, is used in ranges. This helps hold the front side of the storage drawer and allows the drawer to easily slide in and out of the range. If ...
$15.95
In Stock
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This part is the heatsource. This surface element is for ranges.
Surface element supplies the heat to a cooking area on top of the range.
Unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breaker ...
$97.95
In Stock
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This is a six-inch radiant element with limiter. It works in conjunction with your stove top range. The purpose of this part is to heat up the cooking area that is located on top of the range, also kn...
$86.19
In Stock
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This is a red indicator light lens for an oven that covers the indicator light for the surface element. The indicator light signifies when the element is on and heated. This part is sold individually....
$18.95
In Stock
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The anti-tip bracket kit comes with one metal bracket and two installation screws, and is sourced directly from the genuine manufacturer. It prevents the freestanding oven, range, or stove from tippin...
$22.95
In Stock
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We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years
... Read more passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
Cut off power at fuse panel. pulled stove out from wall went behind stove removed back panels in area of sensor that I could see from the front side, inside oven. Located sensor from rear & unpluged senser from wiring bundle reached inside oven & removed screws from sensor. Pulled sensor out & threaded wire through hole. Took old & new
... Read more sensors to bench in shop. Plug on new not the same as old. Had to change plug Cut and stripped wires. Wire is very small, need to use a good stripper. Twisted wire together & soldered connection, used shrink wrap to insulate wire. Took part inside and reinstalled in reverse order. Used 1/4 inch nutdriver on total job start to finish.
I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).
Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet m
... Read moreetal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
