3644 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Flipped the breaker. Removed shelf, Find the right size nut socket, unscrew the two screws, pull the element out a little bit, disconnect the wires (on pretty tight), pull out element, clean out any mess in the oven, compare element with new one to make sure its the same size and such, connect wires to new element, replace screws, flip breaker back, turn on for a few minutes to make sure it works. Piece of cake.

First I searched this site and read about the repairs - which made me feel like my husband could do it with ease. Then he removed two screws inside the oven, removed the broken element (didn't know it was broken til removed) and replaced the new one - just like that! The real key was being able to read how it was for other people who had already done it. That's the only reason I'm submitting my storey. Thanks

I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. Then I removed the two screws from the old element, pulled the old element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires from the element and installed the new one.

first, made sure circuit breaker was off
second, used nut driver to remove 2 screws on old element, pulled it from the back of the oven
third, removed 2 wires from old element (spade connectors)
fourth, connected new element and pushed back into oven.
fifth, reinstalled 2 screws securing new element

this was all done by my 15 yr old son under my supervision.

Removed 2 screws that hold element and pulled old element out about 2 inches to disconnect the wires from the old element. Connected the new element and remounted to rear oven wall. Very simple and saved a visit from the appliance repairman.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
the repeated the process to complete the installation.
Relly easy.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches, but I had not turned off the power.
So, I shorted out one of the wires. Then I turned off the power but was afraid to go any farther.
An appliance repairman was at my house that day fixing my dryer seal. He was able to pull the wires through the insulation successfully and install the broiler element. He did not charge me any extra for this little extra job. But I learned my lesson. Cut the power before you begin! He told me that I could have wound up with a much bigger repair if the short had been in the wire that is connected to the control panel of the oven. I was very lucky!

TURNED OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER. Removed nut, washer and screw, pulled out electric burner about three inches, disconnected electric terminals and removed damaged element. Inserted new element into oven, connected electric terminals, pushed electric prongs back in, screwed element to back wall of oven....DONE Easy as 123

Fan motor has to be removed from the rear. Since this is a (double) wall oven, the hardest part was sliding the oven out of the wall.

First, doors are removed, eight screws that hold the oven in place (along the side of the doorways) are removed. The rear panel inside the oven must be removed to expose the fan. Four screws hold that in place.
Next, slide out the oven. The fan is covered by a tin shroud which is easily removed with a nut driver. The blade of the fan (inside the oven) is held on by a reverse threaded nut which must be removed. The fan motor is mounted with three screws and has two wires plugged into it. Piece of cake.

Reverse the procedure and you're done.

The best part was that I had originally called a service guy, who was going to 'defer me to GE for the repair' because the oven had to come out of the wall!! I think I'm going into the repair business!

at first thought the seal would just slide out and the same for the replacement. when I realized that this was not the case and began to wonder what....? I saw the screws at top and bottom, took them off and voila the inner shell moved forward enough to take out the old, slide in the new, push in, replace the screws and back to a happy wife with an oven that can bake correctly again

I opened the lid, and found that the terminal blocks were burnt, the wires were melted. I ordered one set of terminal block to replace the burnt one, and it worked. Before I started, I shut off the electricity in the whole house to be safe.

FIRST MAKE SURE THE OVEN IS OFF!!!! I chose to shut it off at the breaker panel. Remove the two screws that attaches the broiler element to the oven. Gently pull it out. Unplug the two cable wires that are attached. Replace it and install the same way.

First I removed the oven door from the appliance. Then I placed it on a table and removed the screws from around the edges. First I removed an aluminum heat shield. Then I removed the first of three heat shielding glass viewing panels, followed by the second one by removing even more screws. I carefuly laid the parts out in the oreder that I remove them along with their screws. Next I removed the large heat shielding aluminum plate that held the first two glass heat shields. Then removed a layer of insulation. Then I was down to the sheel steal plate that holds the gasket. As a precaution I removed the thick pyrex glass heat shilding viewing panel. Lastly the plate that held the door seal was removed. After removing the old gasket, I carefully placed the new oven door gasket in place. After cleaning all the parts that had been removed, I replaced them one at a time in reverse order. Most of my time was spent cleaning. How ever I was especially impressed with the good condition of the oven door after 20 years of approximately every other day oven use. Thanks

removed 4 screws of the back fan cover, then removed the two screws holding the element and disconnected the slip-on electrical wire connections. replaced enement and cover in reverse. this was all done after i cut power at circut breaker duhh

TURN OFF ALL POWER TO KITCHEN. Took off all burner coils and plates below them. Lift hood. Locate part. Remove old part and replace with new part in same way as was previously installed. The wire that comes with the kit is actually too much wire, but just arrange it the best you can and leave it....no big deal. I didn't have a magnet, but needed one. The wire from burner coil to switch runs through a harness which is screwed on to the body of the oven (below the range). Be careful NOT to drop it behind oven when taking it out. I dropped it and took forever to get it. That turned a 20 minuate job into an hour and a half. Otherwise this is an easy job that anyone can do. Refrigerator compressor is next. Have fun.