36358047891 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the 36358047891
[Viewing 8 of 8]Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".

Refrigerator Ice Maker
PartSelect #: PS1993870
Manufacturer #: WR30X10093
This 10 by 5 inch ice maker (Electromechanical Icemaker Kit, Ice Maker Assembly) produces ice. This particular model will produce seven crescent shaped cubes every cycle. It is constructed of plastic ...
$173.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Door Closing Cam
PartSelect #: PS297995
Manufacturer #: WR2X4901
This single door closure cam is mounted on the door, not the hinge.
$29.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
PartSelect #: PS284555
Manufacturer #: WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
$13.95
In Stock

Light Bulb (40W)
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$19.10
In Stock

Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS306735
Manufacturer #: WR72X10010
This part is the replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 16 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. The crisper draw will slide in and out along ...
No Longer Available

Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS306734
Manufacturer #: WR72X10009
This drawer track supports the right hand side of the sliding drawer.
No Longer Available

1/4 Tubing Nut
PartSelect #: PS304401
Manufacturer #: WR57X57
This is a quarter tubing nut and is sold individually. The tubing nut works in conjunction with your refrigerator/freezer and is made entirely of plastic. The function of this part is to connect the l...
$13.95
In Stock

Condenser Fan Motor - 115V
PartSelect #: PS304731
Manufacturer #: WR60X187
This part comes with 3 round pin connection terminals.
This fan motor circulates the air through the refrigerator grille and cools the compressor and condenser coils. It also helps to evaporate extra...
$215.62
In Stock

Freezer Wire Shelf
PartSelect #: PS2323420
Manufacturer #: WR71X10715
This genuine GE Freezer Wire Shelf, also known as SHELF FZ, is an essential replacement part designed for maintaining your GE freezer's functionality. This sturdy wire shelf ensures ample and organize...
$71.95
Special Order

Lower Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS306733
Manufacturer #: WR72X10008
No Longer Available

Lower Drawer Slide Rail - Right Side
PartSelect #: PS306732
Manufacturer #: WR72X10007
No Longer Available
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Common Symptoms of the 36358047891
[Viewing 14 of 14]Ice maker not making ice
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Noisy
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Door won’t open or close
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Leaking
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer section too warm
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Door Sweating
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Clicking sound
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Won’t start
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Fridge runs too long
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Door would not automatically close.
Symptom: Door did not close automatically. Also had found small chunks of black plastic on the floor. Refrigerator door was slightly lower than the freezer door.
One false start because I did not realize both of the door-closing cams had disintegrated and I had only ordered the cam without the hinge.
Purchased part ... Read more 290199 Hinge Assembly. It came with matching door-closing cam. (Had not known so I also purchased the cam 297995 separately). Next time I will know to only purchase the Hinge Assembly.
Replacement procedure took about 20 minutes including removing and replacing door shelves and their contents. Two people involved.
1. Remove all door shelves with contents and other contents on door.
2. Remove the top Phillips head screw holding the decorative plastic on the top.
3. Remove the two top hinge screws on top of refrigerator using metric #8 socket wrench. Second person made sure door did not fall off.
4. Lift the door off the bottom hinge pin. Second person holds door on it’s side.
5. Take off the bottom refrigerator cover
6. Remove the bottom hinge assembly screws using metric #8 socket wrench.
7. Mount the replacement bottom hinge assembly and tighten the two screws.
8. On the door bottom, remove the outer screw and loosen the inner screw using metric #8 socket wrench.
9. Replace the door-closing cam (or what is left of it) with the cam in line with the door and cam bumps away from the door.
10. Place the door back on the hinge pin (one person holds while the other person maneuvers the door bottom).
11. Replace the top hinge and reinsert the screws on top of the refrigerator. Dress the door so that it does not press hard on the rubber door gaskets (or the door will fail to shut automatically). Tighten the screws.
12. Replace the decorative plastic over the top hinge.
13. Open the door and replace the bottom refrigerator cover.
14. Replace the door shelves and all contents.
15 Close the door.
One false start because I did not realize both of the door-closing cams had disintegrated and I had only ordered the cam without the hinge.
Purchased part ... Read more 290199 Hinge Assembly. It came with matching door-closing cam. (Had not known so I also purchased the cam 297995 separately). Next time I will know to only purchase the Hinge Assembly.
Replacement procedure took about 20 minutes including removing and replacing door shelves and their contents. Two people involved.
1. Remove all door shelves with contents and other contents on door.
2. Remove the top Phillips head screw holding the decorative plastic on the top.
3. Remove the two top hinge screws on top of refrigerator using metric #8 socket wrench. Second person made sure door did not fall off.
4. Lift the door off the bottom hinge pin. Second person holds door on it’s side.
5. Take off the bottom refrigerator cover
6. Remove the bottom hinge assembly screws using metric #8 socket wrench.
7. Mount the replacement bottom hinge assembly and tighten the two screws.
8. On the door bottom, remove the outer screw and loosen the inner screw using metric #8 socket wrench.
9. Replace the door-closing cam (or what is left of it) with the cam in line with the door and cam bumps away from the door.
10. Place the door back on the hinge pin (one person holds while the other person maneuvers the door bottom).
11. Replace the top hinge and reinsert the screws on top of the refrigerator. Dress the door so that it does not press hard on the rubber door gaskets (or the door will fail to shut automatically). Tighten the screws.
12. Replace the decorative plastic over the top hinge.
13. Open the door and replace the bottom refrigerator cover.
14. Replace the door shelves and all contents.
15 Close the door.
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Parts Used:
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Gary from North eastham, AL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
178 of 192 people
found this instruction helpful.
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ice stalactites were drooling out of the icemaker and gumming up the cubes in the receiving tray.
I first shut off water flow to the fridge. Examination of the package (which was not exact in appearance to the original) demonstrated that the electrical connectors were well-insulated so I arrogantly and successfully proceded without disconnecting the power. My fridge is old enough that the model doesn't appear exactly on anyone's list
... Read more
so I wasn't alarmed that it took an extra 10 minutes or so to noodle out how to adapt the slightly different inlet cowling and electrical cord with extension, but the device is pretty simple.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
Soon I loosened the two mounting screws with a nut driver, used a screwdriver to pry away the plastic snap-in housing over the electrical socket on the fridge inner wall and pulled away the electrical plug. The original water fill tube remained in its cavity, ready for re-use.
The new unit's mounting points matched the original screw locations perfectly, as did the fill cowling - which on the replacement icemaker has two possible attachment points. The new unit's electrical connector required an extension pigtail to adapt to my socket, but it was included in the package. The extra cable posed a minor cosmetic issue because it hangs in the collection basket a bit, but that will soon be remedied with a tie wrap.
After the water was restored and an anxious wait of a few hours, we had well-formed ice cubes that weren't all stuck together and the stalactites haven't reappeared.
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Parts Used:
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Gerald from Benicia, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
91 of 128 people
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Ice maker stopped working
I unplugged the electrical connection. Then I removed the 2 screws holding the icemaker in place. I lifted out the old icemaker unit and put the new one in place. Then put the 2 screws back in and plugged in the new unit.
The icemaker started making ice very soon after turning the unit on.
The icemaker started making ice very soon after turning the unit on.
Parts Used:
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Dan from West Bloomfield, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
83 of 111 people
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