36272622302 Kenmore Range - Instructions

First of all disconnect the power cord and then remove the top section of the oven which consisted of 2 small allen screws located in the front bottom corners [ left and right ] on the frontside. On the backside there was 2 phillip screws on top corners [ left and right ]. Also there was 2 bolthead screws that I use my small socket set or you can use a small ajustable wrench. Once all these were removed it rolled forward right off. The control board was located in the center of the panel. Made sure the part matched up and it did, removed 4 small corner phillip screws and 4 or 5 removable plug in wire connectors which were easily identified. Put everything back together, plug power cord back in and the electronic display came on. Everything worked on the oven. done deal.

remove two screw lift top slide glass in place install top done deal

First I needed the correct model number & the correct part numbers for the two front tube assemblies. After that well.... I removed everything on top of the stove. I then proceded to remove all the torx screws for each orifice holder bracket & igniter wires so i could raise the top lid ( without this step you will wind up replacing more than one tube assembly!) Be careful when removing color coded wires so that they work with the correct burner. Remove compression nut to burner valve... i used a crowfoot. remove orifice holder from bracket & install new holder ( onto bracket). Install orifice assembly to burner valve ( do not over tighten), re-install wires to igniters, lower lid, and re-install torx screws. The correct parts require little effort to align. Last of all, test burners and check for leaks. Thanks for reading, I will continue to learn from my mistakes!

openend stove top disconnected wire pushed out old sparker inserted new one closed lid game over

Removed the two screws put the heat shield off the old one onto the new one put new bottom in and tightened two screws. Done #38. 69 Cost of part with shipping cost included.

Pull plug and shut off gas! The lower oven burner is held in with two rear and one front screws. I removed the top floor of the oven (two hand tightened screws at the back), the bottom drawer, and the front door (just lift it off the hinges). This allowed me to access the burner, and I removed it by unscrewing the three screws, unhitching the igniter connector, and lifting the burner and igniter up and out. I connected the new igniter on the new burner before installing it in the oven, and found that the connector did not match (I was warned about this possibility on the PartSelect site), but instead of splicing the wires together, I cut off the connector on the new igniter and replaced it with the connector of the old igniter. Then I screwed the burner into the oven, recoupled the connector, replaced the floor, drawer, and door, and I was done! It took about 45 minutes.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.

I was surprised to find that the 2 screws holding on the plastic end caps were not philips. it looked like an allen wrench deal but that didn't work. Turned out that I had to buy a hex tool. Looked kinda like a swiss army knife but had allen wrench like hex tools in various sizes. By then I was determined to finish the job even if it meant buying a tool I'd never use again. The job took about five minutes once I had the right tool. The stove looks normal now. The stove looks brand new but for some reason there were cracks in the end caps where the screw hole were.

determined that the top of the burner was melted and malformed. Repair was simple: lifted off the damaged burner and slipped the new one in place.

removed two screws and took out bottom tray and put the new one in and replaced the screws.DId it my self.

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

Very simple repair with no tools required. Turn off power to stove. Remove grates, remove burner, pull old Top Burner Spark Electrode up being careful not to jerk it up hard - wiggle if necessary, unplug wire from old electrode, plug wire into new electrode making sure it fits snug - if not, squeeze it closed a little at a time until it fits snug, push new igniter into place being careful not to force it and crack the ceramic body. Install burner being careful not to damage the electrode, Install grates. Turn power back on and test to make sure it works. It took me all of 15 minutes to change 2 burner spark electrodes. The only bad thing about this repair is that the shipping costs as much as the parts.

repair was easy enough, but the kit came with female ends and needed mail ends. I had to splice old connecters to new igniter