1544 - Instructions

I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

Removed the broken element by taking out the two screws in the back wall of the oven and unplugging the wires. Then did reverse to install the new element. Very simple repair job.

The existing terminal block on my Ge oven/Range had melted due to a loose wire causing sparking and starting the plastic casing of the terminal block on fire and melting it, Part select made the part easy to find and had it at my house in 2 days. All I had to do was remove six screws to take the back sheet metal cover off of the oven. Unscrew the terminal connections remove two mounting screws that held the terminal on to the oven body. This was a little trickier than it should have been because the melted plastic had reformed making it very hard to access the mounting screws. i then mounted the new piece and plugged the oven in, it took 15 minutes and was very easy. definitely saved me at-least a $100 for the service call i would have made if finding the part wasn't so convenient

turned off the breaker (240 volts and it was outside, so it took longer than 15 minutes). Removed two screws in the back of the oven, one on each side of the old element, and pulled the old element forward. The wires on the back add some resistance, but they are long enough to pull forward a short distance (3 inches) without damage. Unplugged the old element, plugged in the new element, pushed it into place, and reinstalled the screws. Turned the power back on and it worked! Saved some money for the holidays! DIY para vida!

We took out the philips screws on the right and left side of inside of the oven and two hex head screws on the clip on the top of the oven in the front. Then using a slot screw driver pryed the oven liner out enough to remove old gasket and replace the new gasket. We did see in some online directions that we were suppose to remove entire oven from cabinet and loosen bolts in the back. But, we were able to get enough space to get the old gasket out and new one installed. We did use a 1/4" thick piece of wood on face of oven to prevent any denting of oven when prying out the liner of the oven.

Turned the circuit breaker off. Removed the 2 screws holding the element in place, pulled the element out far enough to access and disconnect the wires. Installed the new element by reversing the process. Success - wife is happily baking again!

Shut off wall oven circuit.Took out screws, pulled element out, disconnected oven wire terminals from old element and popped them onto new element.Pushed them back behind oven wall and put screws back.Flipped circuit back on and baked some chocolate chip muffins :) Got tired of asking Hubby to fix it.You GO Ladies! ;-)

This was amazing. First I couldn't believe I could find a part for an over that was 25 years old. Fixing it was just as easy. I read some of the other reviews and it was just as easy as they described. Unscrewed the two plates on the back of the oven, unclipped two pieces and screwed the plates back on. It took me a total of 10-15 minutes, BUT, I couldn't get the door back on. Had to impose on a neighbor to help. Ten minutes to fix the oven and three days to get the door back on! Still worth it. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU

Recieved the part within 24 hrs after I ordered it which was awesome.
Removed the two screws holding element in place and pulled out to remove old element. Disconnected the wires and removed element. Had to replace the wire ends with slip on ends to match new element. Spent more time at Home Depot looking for $.99 ends and a crimper than it did to do the entire replacement. Reinstalled element with no problem. Worked great.

Took oven door off. Removed screws that were holding oven insert. Pulled out oven insert. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket. Push oven insert back. Installed screws. Replaced oven door.

Son-in-law unscrewed oven compartment; broken gasket was easy enough to remove and new gasket easy to replace; only problem was oven door would not shut tight. Tried shoving gasket harder into groove, tried turning on oven and heating new gasket to see if it would soften. Finally got it to close by pushing hard on left side of oven and inside light would at least go off and stay off.

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

it was really easy. The most time consuming is removing an replacing the unit from the built-in cabinet.

very easy remove the bad bulb install the new one