11031652020 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Pushed in on door strike and rotated it counterclockwise, removed broken strike and installed new strike. NOTE: when removing the old strike (turning counterclockwise) it felt like it might break and/or was attached with an screw that I didn't see but it came right out.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Super easy repair, simply turn the broken door strike counterclockwise to remove; insert the new door strike into the slots and turn clockwise to lock into place.

Changing the door strike was simple just a quarter turn and it pops off. Changing the assembly, remove the screws from the back side at the top, move to facing the front of the machine pull the top toward you about a half inch and it will open. From the back unplug the correct wire, remove assembly and then install in reverse. Good luck.

Washer would start cycle and return a CL error. No water would flow into the tub. Researched problem and probable cause. Ordered new water inlet valve. Once received, disconnected water hoses and electric plug and removed rear upper access panel (5 screws). Used thin putty knife under sides of front control panel to disengage spring clips. Once access to the faulty valve was attained, removed electrical harness and valve mounting screws. Installation of new valve was reverse process. Figuring out how to raise the front panel for access to the valve was most difficult. Found a YouTube video showing how; it was easy from there. Entire replacement took about 30 mins max.

The door strike part was very simple to remove. 15 seconds at most...Part ordered and delivered a day early. Install of new part was again about 15 seconds and Wala....job completed. Thanks for the great service....will call again when needed....

Did troubleshooting after code LF showed on indicator window. Did troubleshooting; checked hoses for obstructions and small filters on inlets. All good. Ordered new fill valve. Came in a few days, good service.
Removed control panel top by removing screws on back of control panel, then by pushing putty knife under each side to release spring clips. Carefully lifted cover and set onto lid. Photographed fill valve at left side as you are standing in front of machine. Removed screws with small ratchet. Carefully removed wires via clips. Lifted out valve.
Attached wires to new, set back into its place, replaced screws, tightened but not too tight so as to break part. Replaced control panel, pushing downward to engage spring clips, then replace screws on back.
Re attached hoses, ensuring they were on the correct sides, plugged machine into power, ran through cycle and VIOLA!! Worked perfectly!! After a couple weeks, still working perfectly! Was VERY happy it was only fill valve and not mother board as the cost was a fraction.
I found trouble shooting videos to be very helpful. Your service quite good.

Rotate the broken piece counter clockwise in the socket in the lid to release it. Install the new one in a clockwise rotation.

The valve is a 4 solenoid valve, which has Temp. sensor molded into the valve body mixer center outlet. No mention of it in the troubleshooting. it has a 2 pin plug. it was shorted zero ohms.
New one measure open infinity. I also purchased the control module as the troubleshooting said to if solenoid checked good which all 4 read 1310 ohms , i purchased and replaced control module, no help. the guide is outdated for these new high tech washers. If this happens again. I will just unplug the 2 pin plug on bottom of valve assembly. By the way the 2 clips that hold the washer top in place are very difficult to remove and re install.

Using a pair of pliers turn counter clockwise to remove broken part. Install the new part by turning clockwise. Soooo easy with install time of less than a minute.

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

Ordered this part 3 times over a period of several months and never received it. Only would get emails saying it was out of stock and would be sent soon. Eventually had to but a whole new washer. Will never recomend this company or another Maytag product.

slipped the new drain hose on and with locking plyers slipped the wire clap in place after three trys

The repair went really well. And it was the right part and now we can have light in our fridge.
Thank you!
Your help and fast shipping really made a difference. I will always shop for my parts with you guys. Thank you for having things no store has. It saves alit of money all around.
Thank you again.

If you take the back off the machine, it's a lot easier to detach the control bridge. Saved a lot of time and did not need to stretch your fingers