108R - Instructions

First I shut the power off to the stove, then I lifted the burner and removed the screw that holds the hinge to the stove surface. Then gently I pulled the element out of the stove, exposing the wire connection (the ceramic block, the connection is samwiched between.) Then I took my screw driver and popped off one side of the clamped block(there is 2), then removed the top piece of the ceramic. Taking note of wire placment. Carefully used my socket wrench to remove screws that hold the 3 wires from the old element. Placed the new element in and screwed the wires on and placed the top ceramic piece back on. ( making sure wires are clear of pinching) Then push the clamps back on. Push wire connection(block) back in the stove top and screw on the hinge that holds it to the stove. I turned the power back on and now they are like new. This was very easy.

Repair was simple (just lift off the old and put on the new). What was pleasantly surprising was how quickly I received the parts (amazing)!

Lastly, I've been looking for the correct parts/sizes in stores for years (yes, I should have tried this sooner). I was delighted to finally find a place that actually had the correct parts.

The hardest thing was finding the part to order! The GE Cooktop is from 1957 when the house was built. I followed the instructions that came with it. After seeing where the screw on hinge was supposed to be, I cleaned away the caked grease and finally saw the screw. I had to use a nut driver to remove it since it didn't have a slot for a screwdriver. Once that screw was out, the rest was easy. Before disconnecting any wires, I laid the new and old parts beside each other and drew a diagram showing where each wire (red, black & white) connected. It was a bit scary stripping the wires since they were old and fragile. It said to bend them into a "U" and solder but I didn't have soldering skill or equipment so I just tightened the screws holding the wires carefully. The connections are all nicely isolated in the bakelite insulator so it didn't seem cruicial. After working the new unit into place and turning on the power (at the circuit breaker), the burner worked perfectly. The replacement part looked exactly like the original. I was so amazed to be able to obtain the replacement burner after all these years! Thank-you PartsSelect!

1. Removed the back panel.
2. Disconnected the wires from the old switch while connecting wires to the new switch one at a time.
3. Installed the new switch and broke off the excess metal on the post which fits into the burner knob on front of the range.
4. Replaced the burner knob and replaced the back panel.

First I turned the circuit breaker switch off for the stove unit. I then removed the two screws that hold the element in place at the back of the oven. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I attached the new element, bolting the wires into place and then screwed the element back into place on the back wall of the oven. I flipped the breaker switch back on, and turned on the oven. I was done in roughly 15 minutes. The most difficult part was having to shine a flash light into the oven to replace the part, and negotiating the hard cold kitchen floor.

It was so easy. I turned off the power to the range, loosened the hinge screw and removed the burner unit from the stovetop. Next I removed the two spring clips holding the ceramic housing covering the three connectors. Then I loosened the three screws holding the 3 wire connectors to the burner, reconnected the 3 wires to the new burner unit, positioned the ceramic insulator housing and reinstalled the spring clips and finally replaced and tightened the hinge screw. It took about 5 or six minutes, max.
You can do this!

I found the model number of the Briggs & Stratton engine on the inside of the engine housing. Ordered a new starter-rewind unit, as the old cord broke and the thing was well worn. The instructions were clear enough, but to get the old starter off I had to drill out four rivets, which just spin around when you try. I used a hacksaw, chisel, pliers, whatever worked on each rivet; this took a while. When they were finally removed, the new starter pull unit was relatively easy to install with the small nuts and bolts provided. On the Yard Machines log splitter, putting back the engine housing is quite tricky; you have to jostle the thing into place, get the pull handle above the cover and line up the bolt holes.

Received the Drip bowls and Rings very quickly. Opened the box and then cut open the plastic wrap that the individual rings and drip bowls were in. Lifted the burner on the stove top, took out the old ring and drip bowl. Installed the shiny new drip bowl and ring, then lowered the stove top element back into place. I was able to replace all 4 of them within 5 minutes. Made the 30 year old stove look brand new.Thank you for perfect fit parts and fast delivery.

I did the repairs by first shutting down the power and then checking with a tic tester to make sure power was off. Removed one burner at a time by unscrewing the holding screw on the hinge and then removed the ceramic insulator cover and then disconnected the wiring. I drew a schematic for the 3 wire leads (240 volts). Unscrewed them and removed the burner. Cleaned stove top, put burner back in reverse order. Very easy project. Stove top looks as good as it did when it was new.

I first removed the two screws holding the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 2 or 3 inches and then took out the 2 small screws holding the 2 wires in place. I then removed the old element and discarded it and installed the new one in the reverse order that I took out the old one. It was quite easy to do, only took about 10 to 15 minutes total time.

So this ancient stove we inherited when we bought our house had the drip bowls wrapped in tin foil. We've searched EVERY (not joking) store in our area for drip bowls that would fit it, but apparently Hotpoint wanted to make sure you could never do this - well, at least not easily. No one, not one store carries drip bowls to fit it. I finally searched online and partselect.com came up first on the list. I was amazed they had the right part! Better yet, ordering was beyond easy, and they came super quick. Popped in the parts in less than 2 minutes, and we're good to go - makes this old stove look new! (well, if this was the 80's, lol) When I clicked on the part it said which stoves it would fit, which was also very helpful. Thank goodness for Part Select! Otherwise we would've had to rewrap those disgusting old bowls... I'd recommend this site in a heartbeat!

Raise burner high enough to remove screw located on hinge between coils. Remove screw completely and lift-out burner and ceramic block with wire connections.
Remove the wires from the connector block and strip-back the ends of both about 3/4". Make connections per the diagram and then assemble the ceramic blocks around the connection in a sandwiched fashion and secure the halves with the clips provided.
Now sit the burner down into place. An extra pair of hands is good here to hold the chrome trim ring and the coil up directly opposite the hinge. Then, peek under the coil and using fingertips, get the screw provided started in the hinge bracket and run this screw up snugly. A 1/4" nut driver makes this part easier, but a screwdriver will get it done.
That's it. Just flip the breaker to restore power and cross your fingers. A fairly easy job that took about 40 minutes to do both 8" elements The potentially frustrating parts are the ceramic terminal block assembly and replacing the hinge screw, but a job that's very doable. Oh, don't forget to slip the drip pans back in.

It took about 20 min to flip the breaker off and remove the 2 hinge screws and disassemble the 3 wires on each burner and reattach same to new burners. All the hardware was included with the parts went together fast. Flip the breaker back on and everything works perfect.
Parts Select was the only place I could find replacement parts for such an old cooktop.
Thanks, Jerry

Ever the optimist, I'd replaced the burner on this relic of another time to no effect. That left the switch. You guys should know that when a burner element goes bad it can take out the switch. I should have put a meter on it. Wehn I looked for a replacement a few months ago there were still factory parts available, but they were $80 or so and I wasn't inclined to risk that on a 40 year old range. I offered to replace the raange for my daughter as a Christmas present but she like this old thing. It was an unusual size with a pan storage compartment on the left. I went on line and found this universal replacement for about $25 delivered. What the heck. I ordered it and it arrived within a week. I pulled the stove out, killed the breaker, pulled the knob off, used a nut driver to take ther rear panel off, two phillips screws under the knob hold the switch in. The terminals on the old switch are in a slightly different order but are clearly marked L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. The P is the power and has a smaller terminal so you can't put it on the wrong one. Just examine the old switch ( it was marked the same way) take off the L1 and put in on the L1 of the new switch and so on, make sure you use the correct knob adapter to fit your old knob and break the switch stem to the correct length. It will break easilly if you hold it with one pliers and break it with another. Screw the new switch in place with he old screws. At this point, I closed the breakers and tested it. It worked fine. I turned the breakers off again. Buttoned it up and slid the stove back into place. 20 minutes tops. Great product. Good for another forty years.

Disconnect power. . . Remove control panel, pull wire connectors,[note location] remove old switch, install new, install wires, snip stem to length, set knob . . . Turn on power - works. [Note this is a live part even when not connected]