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Sample Model Number Tags
Model numbers can be made up of numbers (1005400, for example) or a combination of letters and numbers (LAT1000AAE). The model number will most likely appear on either a paper sticker or a metal plate. Your appliance's model number tag may look similar to the sample model number tags shown here (model number highlighted in yellow):
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The Defrost Timer (Defrost control) acts like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evapo...
$33.95
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$33.95
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
The evaporator is found in the back of the freezer. This kit comes with two mounting grommets, two sleeves (not to be used on porcelain models), two #8 mounting screws, and a push-on fan blade. If you...
$66.28
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
The light socket in your refrigerator houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. If your refrigerator light is not coming on when you open the door, you may need to replace the light s...
$49.28
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
Enhance your refrigerator's longevity and performance with this efficient Whirlpool Door Hinge Nylon Washer. Specifically crafted for some models of Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, Ing...
$11.95
In Stock
Order now and your part arrives in 2-3 business days!
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info: The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n
... Read moreot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
First I removed the racks in the freezer. The rack supports on the sides lift off without tools. The evaporator cover is at the back of the freezer. 4 phillips head screws. The cover lifts up then forward to expose the evaporator, evaporator fan and duct. The duct is held by 3 hex head screws. The evaporator fan is attached to the duct wi
... Read moreth a wiring pigtail to a plug. Unplug the fan and remove the duct. The fan is held by 2 hexhead screws. The new fan is put in place and assembly is simply the reverse of disassembly. The unit is quiet and cools properly now. The new part fit perfectly.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
