1068201680 Kenmore Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the 1068201680
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Air Conditioner Cover Screw
PartSelect #: PS11740701
Manufacturer #: WP308685
Sold individually.
$7.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Screw
PartSelect #: PS11742721
Manufacturer #: WP488729
Metallic screw that is less than an inch long. Does not include the plastic washer.
$8.37
In Stock

Light Socket Kit
PartSelect #: PS371236
Manufacturer #: 4387478
The light socket in your refrigerator houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. If your refrigerator light is not coming on when you open the door, you may need to replace the light s...
$49.28
In Stock

Washer Inlet Hose Washer
PartSelect #: PS11757437
Manufacturer #: WPY013783
This inlet hose washer, also known as a high pressure inlet hose washer, is used in washing machines, refrigerators, freezers, and dishwashers. The function of this part is to create a watertight seal...
$3.95
In Stock

Dryer Screw
PartSelect #: PS11743744
Manufacturer #: WP681414
This screw is sold individually.
$7.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Screw
PartSelect #: PS11747799
Manufacturer #: WP999367
Sold individually.
$7.95
In Stock

Freezer Door Key
PartSelect #: PS11745972
Manufacturer #: WP842177
Sold individually.
$7.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Touchup Paint (Black)
PartSelect #: PS385141
Manufacturer #: 72032
This authentic OEM black touch-up paint is specifically designed for repairing minor scratches, chips, or blemishes on your kitchen appliances. The bottle contains 16ml or 0.6oz of black paint and has...
$17.80
In Stock

Refrigerator Leveler
PartSelect #: PS12114323
Manufacturer #: W11117769
This is an OEM part that is made of metal and sold individually. The leveling leg is generally used with refrigerators, dryers, freezers, ranges, cooktops, and microwaves. The leveling leg is meant to...
$16.95
In Stock

Refrigerator Retainer Bar End Cap
PartSelect #: PS11747552
Manufacturer #: WP986540
Sold individually.
$9.95
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 1068201680
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Common Symptoms of the 1068201680
[Viewing 3 of 3]Light not working
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Leaking
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Door won’t open or close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Light Would Not Go On In The Refrigerator
First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the le
... Read more
ad wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!
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Parts Used:
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DANIEL from MINNEAPOLIS, MN
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
61 of 80 people
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socket melted with bulb in it.
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martin l. from JACKSONVILLE,, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
12 of 18 people
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Lower Light Socket removed and Wires capped with wire nuts
My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causin
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g the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.
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Parts Used:
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Wayne from Arlington, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
6 of 9 people
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