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Hotpoint Oven Parts
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Popular Hotpoint Oven Parts
- Element will not heat
- Little to no heat when baking
- Little to no heat when broiling
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- Element will not heat
- Little to no heat when baking
- Oven is too hot
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second, used nut driver to remove 2 screws on old element, pulled it from the back of the oven
third, removed 2 wires from old element (spade connectors)
fourth, connected new element and pushed back into oven.
fifth, reinstalled 2 screws securing new element
this was all done by my 15 yr old son under my supervision. Read more...
- Will not program
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- Element will not heat
- Little to no heat when baking
- Little to no heat when broiling
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So, I shorted out one of the wires. Then I turned off the power but was afraid to go any farther.
An appliance repairman was at my house that day fixing my dryer seal. He was able to pull the wires through the insulation successfully and install the broiler element. He did not charge me any extra for this little extra job. But I learned my lesson. Cut the power before you begin! He told me that I could have wound up with a much bigger repair if the short had been in the wire that is connected to the control panel of the oven. I was very lucky! Read more...
- Element will not heat
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I had noticed that the former element was sagging at the front end. I installed the additional clips (not original) on each forward end of the element for additional support. Read more...
- Element will not heat
- Little to no heat when baking
- Oven is too hot
- See more...
SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.
FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.
REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!
Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.
As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.
Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.
If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.
You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp. Read more...
- Element will not heat
- Little to no heat when broiling
- See more...
Hotpoint Oven Appliance Types
Popular Hotpoint Oven Models
Below are the most popular Hotpoint Oven models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.
- RK746GP1 Built-in, Electric
- RK747G*J3 Electric Built-in
- RK38G*J4 Electric
- RK767G*J4 Electric Built-in
- RK747G*J5 Electric Built-in
- RJ742G*T7 Electric Built-in
- RK767G*D1 Electric Built-in Double Oven
- RK767G*J3 Electric Built-in
- RJ742G*J5 Electric
- RK747G*D2 Electric Built-in
- RK767G*D2 Electric Built-in
- RK777G*D2 Electric Built-in
- RK736GP4BG Built-in, Electric
- RK747G*J1 Electric Built-in
- RJ742G*J3 Electric Built-in
- RK736GP1 Built-in, Electric, Wall
- RK777G*J3 Electric Built-in
- RK767G*T7 Electric
- RGJ616GEH3 Gas
- RK747G*D1 Electric