JRP28SK1SS General Electric Wall Oven - Overview

Sections of the JRP28SK1SS

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Bake Element – Part Number: WB44K5013
Bake Element
★★★★★
★★★★★
(37)
PartSelect #: PS249249
Manufacturer #: WB44K5013
This bake element is used in ranges and located at the bottom of the oven. The bake element supplies heat for baking. If your symptoms include: your oven is not heating evenly, not starting, or the he...
$71.41
  In Stock
Single Heating Element Support Clip – Part Number: WB2X9719
Single Heating Element Support Clip
★★★★★
★★★★★
(7)
PartSelect #: PS243701
Manufacturer #: WB2X9719
The metallic clip, or also known as a broil element support, is for a oven element on a range. This part holds the broil element in place on top of the oven. If your support clip is broken then this r...
$16.66
  In Stock
Broil Element - 240V – Part Number: WB44K5009
Broil Element - 240V
★★★★★
★★★★★
(20)
PartSelect #: PS249244
Manufacturer #: WB44K5009
This OEM-sourced broil element with push-on terminals is located on the roof of your oven cavity, providing heat from above to cook and heat your food. It requires a 240-volt power supply to function ...
$81.25
  In Stock
Oven Sensor – Part Number: WB21X5301
Oven Sensor
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★★★★★
(5)
PartSelect #: PS236043
Manufacturer #: WB21X5301
It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near t...
$151.57
  In Stock
Ignitor Mounting Screw – Part Number: WB1X1293
Ignitor Mounting Screw
★★★★★
★★★★★
(2)
PartSelect #: PS234519
Manufacturer #: WB1X1293
Sold Individually.
$9.63
  In Stock
Broiler Pan - Large – Part Number: WB48X10056
Broiler Pan - Large
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(10)
PartSelect #: PS1517612
Manufacturer #: WB48X10056
This large broiler pan is found in the bottom of your oven and is used to catch drippings from broiling foods. This part includes the grate and bottom pan and is made of porcelain. The grate measures ...
$30.05
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WB1M1
Screw
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★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS234320
Manufacturer #: WB1M1
Sold Individually.
$7.77
  In Stock
Oven Rack – Part Number: WB48T10094
Oven Rack
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(14)
PartSelect #: PS8755312
Manufacturer #: WB48T10094
Sold individually.
$36.47
  In Stock
Screw – Part Number: WB1X1130
Screw
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(2)
PartSelect #: PS234427
Manufacturer #: WB1X1130
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$8.30
  In Stock
BAIL – Part Number: WB2X7694
BAIL
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS242672
Manufacturer #: WB2X7694
  No Longer Available
SCREW – Part Number: WB1X536
SCREW
PartSelect #: PS234785
Manufacturer #: WB1X536
$9.69
  In Stock
Washer - 12 Pack – Part Number: WB1X119D
Washer - 12 Pack
PartSelect #: PS234480
Manufacturer #: WB1X119D
$12.82
  In Stock

Questions And Answers for JRP28SK1SS

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Common Symptoms of the JRP28SK1SS

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Little to no heat when baking
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Element will not heat
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Little to no heat when broiling
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Oven not heating evenly
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Oven is too hot
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Will Not Start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

SYMPTOM:
The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

FAILURE POINTS:
There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

REPAIR:
As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

Pull oven from the wall:
- Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
- Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
- Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
- The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
- Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
- Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
- Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
- Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
- 1.02K ohms in ice water
- 1.09K ohms at room temperature
- 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
- Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
- Carefully remove the wires one at a time
- VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
-- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
- Remove the controller board (4 screws)
- Install new controller board (4 screws)
- VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
-- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
-- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
-- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
- Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
-- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
- Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
- Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
- Re-install top cover.
- Re-install service connect cover.

You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
- Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
- Flip power breaker to "On".
- Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • James from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
220 of 258 people found this instruction helpful.
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bake element shorted out, sparking like a sparkler
first, made sure circuit breaker was off
second, used nut driver to remove 2 screws on old element, pulled it from the back of the oven
third, removed 2 wires from old element (spade connectors)
fourth, connected new element and pushed back into oven.
fifth, reinstalled 2 screws securing new element

this was all done by my 15 yr old son under my supervision.
Parts Used:
Bake Element
  • Carl from Wynnewood, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
89 of 97 people found this instruction helpful.
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The broiler element caught fire and burned out while I was broiling a steak.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches, but I had not turned off the power.
So, I shorted out one of the wires. Then I turned off the power but was afraid to go any farther.
An appliance repairman was at my house that day fixing my dryer seal. He was able to pull the wires through the insulation successfully and install the broiler element. He did not charge me any extra for this little extra job. But I learned my lesson. Cut the power before you begin! He told me that I could have wound up with a much bigger repair if the short had been in the wire that is connected to the control panel of the oven. I was very lucky!
Parts Used:
Broil Element - 240V
  • Dianne from Rockville, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
67 of 75 people found this instruction helpful.
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